cashoit

Thanks man.

u spent so much on the car already. See my mech would do it all for like 400 and i wd have just been done with it. He good at troubleshooting. Since u doin yurself and the dealer sd its the injectors. Change those, man. Car got a lot of miles on it and its prolly time to change anyways.

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

One thing I haven't tested is my coil pack resistance, I did do the pulling of each coil and the engine got slightly rougher with each one pulled.

I added all the gaskets to do my UIM and valve cover gasket and PVC and odds and ends it will be about $50 from courtesy nissan. So it's roughly going to be about $600 and a day of my time.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

It's funny how you're all pointing to differnt components, most of which have been cleaned, tested ect.

The print out clearly shows fuel trims of 115% and 107%. That means you have a lean condition and the ECU is trying to compensate. The reason your not getting a CEL is because under normal operating conditions, A/F is OK. But keep in mind that it's OK because the ECU has up'd fuel trims to copensate. Under a cold start condition, your running an a/f map that depends on information from the temp sensor and MAF sensor. The ECU is not adjusting a/f ratios, so that is when you will notice poor operating conditions because of clogged injectors.

Cold engine running lean = stall, especially under a load. (in gear)

You can try a professional fuel injector cleaner, not the snake oil you put in your gas tank, but rather a real system. I think 3M & OTC makes a few.
A real fuel system/injector cleaner is hooked up to your injectors and flushes them with a strong cleaner. Once it's complete you reconnect your fuel system and go for an agressive drive. That will usually help dirty, clogged injectors open up and spray much better.

Find a mechanic that can perform that service for you and you might be able to restore their performance and correct your cold stalling issue. The service should cost around $100 bucks depending on where you live.

If your injectors get any worse, you will most likely start throwing CEL's for lean banks under normal operating conditions.

Good luck!

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for chiming in man. I think at this point I'm going to start with the front three injectors and replace them and see how it goes. I'm just hanging on tight to my wallet. I figure even if I drive the can another year it will be worth it. I've read quite a few posts about removing and inserting them but not too much info other than lube the O rings with clean motor oil. Any tips on getting them out and also putting them back in?

Thanks!

smai555

im not talking about the throttle cable

what i have circled is a the cold idle something or other

top circle - there should be a gap when cold (that will open the throttle plate just a bit to let more air in when cold hence a higher idle)
once the car warmed up the gap will be closed (bringing the idle down)

lower circle is where you adjust it

red X do not adjust

after reading the above post it might be possible its open too far when cold

now that i have reread some other post what happens when you put it in 1 or 2 or R

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

I haven't 1 or 2, but in R it runs perfectly. I was going to try the 1 and 2 because my co-worker mentioned it today.

I know you weren't talking about the TB cable but I think Cashoit was.

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

When I left work today. I started the car and tried to drive right away. It stalled immediately! The car stalled before it moved anywhere. I started it right back up and tried in 2, same thing, then 1, same thing. Any of the forward gears would stall the car immediately. I did this two times through the range with the same results. I tried in R several times but it would not stall. I'm thinking it's because there less load on the car in reverse. Don't know if someone can confirm.

By the time I did this several times the car was warm enough not to stall bu ran a little rough.

Do you guys think it still the injectors?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Yes, try to have them cleaned correctly, it will be much cheaper then replacing any of them.

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

I just got done changing out the front three with new injectors from Autozone. Are the front B1 or B2? Anyways the car still tried to stall

Now I'm thinking WTF? At this point I want to do the rears but I don't have the parts or time this weekend. My UIM gasket is leaking and so is my valve cover gasket both are very slight leaks. I'm discouraged that the front three didn't have an effect.

Anymore advice?

smai555

try pulling codes maybe your bulb is burnt out

edit
so from what i have read it could be a transmission solenoid or a clogged vaccum line or pcv valve

i don knwo much about auto trannys but im sure the FSM can guide you on those things

madd_maxx

iTrader: (1)

The bulb is not burned out. If I pull my MAF connector and start the car it sets it off. At this point I've done half the injectors, I might as well go all the. It's just frustrating

jimmyfingas

Have you tried testing the resistance on the rear injectors yet?
Quote from Kelvo911
Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

mirclbob

Did you check CT (coolant temp sensor) ? Do you get a fast 12-1500 rpm idle when cold?
Simple ohm meter test. Bob