View Poll Results: What can stall an engine when it's somewhere in between cold and warm?
Your mechanic may not have replaced the EGR valve, solenoid, and cleaned out the tube
0
0%
The IAT is bad. Replace it.
0
0%
Take it to the dealership and let them check it out.
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 1. You may not vote on this poll
WEIRD CAR STALLING PROBLEM
WIERD CAR STALLING 4th UPDATE: "It's b-a-ack!"
4TH UPDATE:
Sat and Sun, it started and ran fine. This morning, when I started it, my Gut said, "It's back."
The Gut said, "Get you a-- on the highway," but then I thought, "Well, then I won't know if it will stall."
I fought the Gut and the Gut won.
It died and I did not think it would restart. It did, but it was bucking like a bronco.
One thought crossed my mind:
I don't know car electronics very well, but I do know computer electronics and how notorious they are for intermittently going beserk given enough time.
WHAT IF MY ECU IS EFFED UP?
Does the 98 I30 have the same ECU as the 98 Max?
If it does - and I really mean, "Identical" -- then the mechanic will swap it out with one he has on hand and see if the problem goes away.
Has anyone had a car get zapped by lightning and then go crazy on you?
-------------
3RD UPDATE:
This car has stumped a team of foreign car specialists with about 70+ years of combined experience. They even posted it on the iATN - the International Automotive Technicians' Network - and they did not have an answer either.
When I took the car there on Wednesday, they could not replicate the stalling problem. So, I told them to keep it overnight, start the engine get stone cold, and then run it.
Next day, they COULD NOT START IT!
Eventually, they got it running.
They went in, around, and through the engine, wiring, fuel, air, etc. They cleared all of the codes. They pulled off the MAP/BARO and replaced it. They pulled off the fuel pump and tested it.
The only thing that happened out of the ordinary was a momentary drop to 15lbs pressure, and then back up to spec.
So, the mechanic said he'd keep the ticket open, and I got the car back on Friday afternoon.
Yesterday (Saturday), I started the car and let it idle for over five minutes. NO STALLING.
I let the car sit for 20 minutes and tried a restart. NO STALLING.
NOW, that I have told you the car is RUNNING FINE, I expect the Gremlin to come back and stall it today (Sunday) when I try starting it.
If it RUNS FINE today, then who knows what was going on or why.
This one is for the books, friends.
2ND UPDATE:
According to the FSM, the MAP solenoid only turns ON under very specific conditions. It is normally OFF.
I know where is the MAP solenoid, but where is the sensor?
According to the FSM, the testing is supposed to take place five minutes after starting the car - but my car does not make it to five minutes. It conks out in two.
Just for fun, I disconnect the MAP, started my car as usual, and two minutes later, it stalls as usual, and won't restart until cool.
There were no vacuum leaks when I had the car checked, but the mechanic was no Nissan expert, either.
I don't understand why flipping from measuring intake manifold pressure when the MAP is OFF, to measuring ambient barometric pressure when the MAP is ON, would completely stall out the car - especially when it is normally OFF?
---------
Restarted the car, racing the engine to get past the stall zone, to let it warm up...at which point it drives OK.
I checked the voltage to the MAF. It was fine.
Disconnected MAF to see if the engine ran better without it.
No dice! Still stalls two minutes after cold start. Can't restart. But, still runs fine when at operating temperature.
Checked the CEL and now it is a P1105 MAP/BAROMETER error instead of the previous P0400/P1400 which went away after replacing EGR solenoid, value, and cleaning out tube.
It's like the sensors have started a rebellion on me.
===================
Before I begin, I want to say that I did a thorough search of the posts, and my problem does not seem to relate to any of them.
This is very weird. Usually, when someone's car dies, it's either when cold or when warm. My car dies IN BETWEEN cold and warm.
For example, it will start fine when engine is stone cold. After letting it idle for two minutes, the engine dies and takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 1 minute of continuous cranking to get it restarted - at which point gobs of smoke and what smells like unburned gas gets blown out of the tailpipe.
I have also had it die when I was going slower than 30mph - also between cold and warm.
Car initially threw an EGR system code. Like P0400 or P1400.
The other reason why this is weird is when I get right on the highway after starting the car and getting it up to speed, it runs OK. When the engine reaches operating temp, it also runs fine without stalling - even when at a dead stop. Restarting soon afterwards is also OK, IF the engine is still warm.
BUT...let it cool off too much and hasta la vista, baby, it won't restart without continuous cranking.
I had the EGR solenoid and valve replaced along with cleaning out the EGR tube. (I mean to say that I sure hope the mechanic actually performed the work he said he did - otherwise I might be mad enough to drive through the shop and not to the shop.
WHATEVER HE DID, IT DID NOT HELP AT ALL.
Now, according to him, it is throwing a bad MAF code. I'm going to confirm it tomorrow at AutoZone, but it seems unlikely to be the cause.
If the MAF is bad, then why would it work when the engine has warmed to operating temp or when the car is going above 30 mph?
Logically speaking, I know that there is a high air flow across the MAF's hot wire when the car is cruising at speed versus no air flow when the car is at a dead stop or a reduced flow when going slower than 30 mph.
Even so, if the MAF is really bad, then what other components work in tandem with it that might affect them?
Remember, this stalling only occurs between cold and warm.
The only sensors that I know are offline when the engine is cold are the O2 sensors. What else changes as the engine temperature changes from stone cold to operating warmth, AND/OR the air flow/engine speed?
The IAT?
Before I do anything else, I'll wait for some suggestions from you - which will be greatly appreciated.
Sat and Sun, it started and ran fine. This morning, when I started it, my Gut said, "It's back."
The Gut said, "Get you a-- on the highway," but then I thought, "Well, then I won't know if it will stall."
I fought the Gut and the Gut won.
It died and I did not think it would restart. It did, but it was bucking like a bronco.
One thought crossed my mind:
I don't know car electronics very well, but I do know computer electronics and how notorious they are for intermittently going beserk given enough time.
WHAT IF MY ECU IS EFFED UP?
Does the 98 I30 have the same ECU as the 98 Max?
If it does - and I really mean, "Identical" -- then the mechanic will swap it out with one he has on hand and see if the problem goes away.
Has anyone had a car get zapped by lightning and then go crazy on you?
-------------
3RD UPDATE:
This car has stumped a team of foreign car specialists with about 70+ years of combined experience. They even posted it on the iATN - the International Automotive Technicians' Network - and they did not have an answer either.
When I took the car there on Wednesday, they could not replicate the stalling problem. So, I told them to keep it overnight, start the engine get stone cold, and then run it.
Next day, they COULD NOT START IT!
Eventually, they got it running.
They went in, around, and through the engine, wiring, fuel, air, etc. They cleared all of the codes. They pulled off the MAP/BARO and replaced it. They pulled off the fuel pump and tested it.
The only thing that happened out of the ordinary was a momentary drop to 15lbs pressure, and then back up to spec.
So, the mechanic said he'd keep the ticket open, and I got the car back on Friday afternoon.
Yesterday (Saturday), I started the car and let it idle for over five minutes. NO STALLING.
I let the car sit for 20 minutes and tried a restart. NO STALLING.
NOW, that I have told you the car is RUNNING FINE, I expect the Gremlin to come back and stall it today (Sunday) when I try starting it.
If it RUNS FINE today, then who knows what was going on or why.
This one is for the books, friends.
2ND UPDATE:
According to the FSM, the MAP solenoid only turns ON under very specific conditions. It is normally OFF.
I know where is the MAP solenoid, but where is the sensor?
According to the FSM, the testing is supposed to take place five minutes after starting the car - but my car does not make it to five minutes. It conks out in two.
Just for fun, I disconnect the MAP, started my car as usual, and two minutes later, it stalls as usual, and won't restart until cool.
There were no vacuum leaks when I had the car checked, but the mechanic was no Nissan expert, either.
I don't understand why flipping from measuring intake manifold pressure when the MAP is OFF, to measuring ambient barometric pressure when the MAP is ON, would completely stall out the car - especially when it is normally OFF?
---------
Restarted the car, racing the engine to get past the stall zone, to let it warm up...at which point it drives OK.
I checked the voltage to the MAF. It was fine.
Disconnected MAF to see if the engine ran better without it.
No dice! Still stalls two minutes after cold start. Can't restart. But, still runs fine when at operating temperature.
Checked the CEL and now it is a P1105 MAP/BAROMETER error instead of the previous P0400/P1400 which went away after replacing EGR solenoid, value, and cleaning out tube.
It's like the sensors have started a rebellion on me.
===================
Before I begin, I want to say that I did a thorough search of the posts, and my problem does not seem to relate to any of them.
This is very weird. Usually, when someone's car dies, it's either when cold or when warm. My car dies IN BETWEEN cold and warm.
For example, it will start fine when engine is stone cold. After letting it idle for two minutes, the engine dies and takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 1 minute of continuous cranking to get it restarted - at which point gobs of smoke and what smells like unburned gas gets blown out of the tailpipe.
I have also had it die when I was going slower than 30mph - also between cold and warm.
Car initially threw an EGR system code. Like P0400 or P1400.
The other reason why this is weird is when I get right on the highway after starting the car and getting it up to speed, it runs OK. When the engine reaches operating temp, it also runs fine without stalling - even when at a dead stop. Restarting soon afterwards is also OK, IF the engine is still warm.
BUT...let it cool off too much and hasta la vista, baby, it won't restart without continuous cranking.
I had the EGR solenoid and valve replaced along with cleaning out the EGR tube. (I mean to say that I sure hope the mechanic actually performed the work he said he did - otherwise I might be mad enough to drive through the shop and not to the shop.
WHATEVER HE DID, IT DID NOT HELP AT ALL.
Now, according to him, it is throwing a bad MAF code. I'm going to confirm it tomorrow at AutoZone, but it seems unlikely to be the cause.
If the MAF is bad, then why would it work when the engine has warmed to operating temp or when the car is going above 30 mph?
Logically speaking, I know that there is a high air flow across the MAF's hot wire when the car is cruising at speed versus no air flow when the car is at a dead stop or a reduced flow when going slower than 30 mph.
Even so, if the MAF is really bad, then what other components work in tandem with it that might affect them?
Remember, this stalling only occurs between cold and warm.
The only sensors that I know are offline when the engine is cold are the O2 sensors. What else changes as the engine temperature changes from stone cold to operating warmth, AND/OR the air flow/engine speed?
The IAT?
Before I do anything else, I'll wait for some suggestions from you - which will be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by dr-rjp; Mar 8, 2010 at 01:10 PM. Reason: change title
Before I begin, I want to say that I did a thorough search of the posts, and my problem does not seem to relate to any of them.
This is very weird. Usually, when someone's car dies, it's either when cold or when warm. My car dies IN BETWEEN cold and warm.
For example, it will start fine when engine is stone cold. After letting it idle for two minutes, the engine dies and takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 1 minute of continuous cranking to get it restarted - at which point gobs of smoke and what smells like unburned gas gets blown out of the tailpipe.
I have also had it die when I was going slower than 30mph - also between cold and warm.
Car initially threw an EGR system code. Like P0400 or P1400.
The other reason why this is weird is when I get right on the highway after starting the car and getting it up to speed, it runs OK. When the engine reaches operating temp, it also runs fine without stalling - even when at a dead stop. Restarting soon afterwards is also OK, IF the engine is still warm.
BUT...let it cool off too much and hasta la vista, baby, it won't restart without continuous cranking.
I had the EGR solenoid and valve replaced along with cleaning out the EGR tube. (I mean to say that I sure hope the mechanic actually performed the work he said he did - otherwise I might be mad enough to drive through the shop and not to the shop.
WHATEVER HE DID, IT DID NOT HELP AT ALL.
Now, according to him, it is throwing a bad MAF code. I'm going to confirm it tomorrow at AutoZone, but it seems unlikely to be the cause.
If the MAF is bad, then why would it work when the engine has warmed to operating temp or when the car is going above 30 mph?
Logically speaking, I know that there is a high air flow across the MAF's hot wire when the car is cruising at speed versus no air flow when the car is at a dead stop or a reduced flow when going slower than 30 mph.
Even so, if the MAF is really bad, then what other components work in tandem with it that might affect them?
Remember, this stalling only occurs between cold and warm.
The only sensors that I know are offline when the engine is cold are the O2 sensors. What else changes as the engine temperature changes from stone cold to operating warmth, AND/OR the air flow/engine speed?
The IAT?
Before I do anything else, I'll wait for some suggestions from you - which will be greatly appreciated.
This is very weird. Usually, when someone's car dies, it's either when cold or when warm. My car dies IN BETWEEN cold and warm.
For example, it will start fine when engine is stone cold. After letting it idle for two minutes, the engine dies and takes anywhere from 30 seconds to 1 minute of continuous cranking to get it restarted - at which point gobs of smoke and what smells like unburned gas gets blown out of the tailpipe.
I have also had it die when I was going slower than 30mph - also between cold and warm.
Car initially threw an EGR system code. Like P0400 or P1400.
The other reason why this is weird is when I get right on the highway after starting the car and getting it up to speed, it runs OK. When the engine reaches operating temp, it also runs fine without stalling - even when at a dead stop. Restarting soon afterwards is also OK, IF the engine is still warm.
BUT...let it cool off too much and hasta la vista, baby, it won't restart without continuous cranking.
I had the EGR solenoid and valve replaced along with cleaning out the EGR tube. (I mean to say that I sure hope the mechanic actually performed the work he said he did - otherwise I might be mad enough to drive through the shop and not to the shop.
WHATEVER HE DID, IT DID NOT HELP AT ALL.
Now, according to him, it is throwing a bad MAF code. I'm going to confirm it tomorrow at AutoZone, but it seems unlikely to be the cause.
If the MAF is bad, then why would it work when the engine has warmed to operating temp or when the car is going above 30 mph?
Logically speaking, I know that there is a high air flow across the MAF's hot wire when the car is cruising at speed versus no air flow when the car is at a dead stop or a reduced flow when going slower than 30 mph.
Even so, if the MAF is really bad, then what other components work in tandem with it that might affect them?
Remember, this stalling only occurs between cold and warm.
The only sensors that I know are offline when the engine is cold are the O2 sensors. What else changes as the engine temperature changes from stone cold to operating warmth, AND/OR the air flow/engine speed?
The IAT?
Before I do anything else, I'll wait for some suggestions from you - which will be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by luke95gxe; Feb 20, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
jtzmax it worked well for me and i zip tied the wire to the intake so they werent moving around at first i didnt zip tie and drove to nc an upon arrival i started stallin again what happened was from all the bumps the wire started to come lose so if you do this let zip ties be your friend
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