Cold Start Problem
#41
2ND UPDATE: Well after one week, I guess it was too good to be true but this morning, when I started it it still turned over on the 2nd turn but it turned itself right back off . This is getting ridiculous now.. I need someone to give me a second input on this and I already replaced the ECTS first so if someone had this problem before, please post!
#42
i'm having cranking problems too...turns strong but just won't fire up unless I mash the gas and even then its a sloppy start often with a squealing belt....I'm wondering if changin out my plugs will remedy this
Last edited by afro; 03-25-2010 at 05:45 AM.
#43
2ND UPDATE: Well after one week, I guess it was too good to be true but this morning, when I started it it still turned over on the 2nd turn but it turned itself right back off . This is getting ridiculous now.. I need someone to give me a second input on this and I already replaced the ECTS first so if someone had this problem before, please post!
But to me, this now seems like a air or coil pack issue. Do the cleaning. If that dont like it, then test coils and harness voltages
#44
Yur problem seems like an air issue too. Totally unrelated. Gotta do a SEARCH, there are many start-up issues threads that list other member solutions.
It sounds like u have an air issue as well.
First things first, make sure TB, MAF is clean. Spray MAF with MAF cleaner. Dont have to remove TB, jus use carb cleaner and clean the insides of the TB as best u can.
That dont help, then start looking at CPS and both CKPS. Multimeter is ur friend here. USe that to checks voltages per spec. FSM or Haynes will tell u specs. CKPS could be fouled, jus wipe it off and re-install. Sometime that dont help, since the CPS and CKPS are magnets, over time they lose magnetic properties and u jus have to replace. USe FSM and multumeter to test. Dont forget to test harnesses too.
If that not it, then start diagnosing fuel and spark. CHeck out the Pump, CHeck coils for voltage. Get starter tested. CHeck alternator as well..
THere is a lot to test.
#45
If it turned itself off then thats not a issue with the FPR. U have other problems. When the last time u cleaned the TB, MAF, IACV. Seems more like an air issue. U replace the IATS?? Thats a part from the JY I believe. Also, Take a look at the CKPS REF on the tranny side. Jus remove and see if its fouled. U can try to wipe if off with a dry towel.
But to me, this now seems like a air or coil pack issue. Do the cleaning. If that dont like it, then test coils and harness voltages
But to me, this now seems like a air or coil pack issue. Do the cleaning. If that dont like it, then test coils and harness voltages
No I did not change the IATS. THe code just came up but after I cleared it, it never returned. I cleaned my throttle body two summers ago like how often are you suppose to clean out the TB? When I replaced the FPR, it was not that dirty. But I will take off the CKPS REF and check for fouling. It started fine today like it was all the time after I changed the FPR. Will update after I clean the CKPS.
#47
Every 3 months? This is not something most of us can do since I am in NYC and don't have a garage and I refuse to waste money to have someone do that and I can do it myself. I think there is another underlying issue here that needs to be addressed. I did not check the CKPS REF sensor yet as I had to work today. But today was a colder dsy and the car fired right up fine..hmm..
#48
okay late update on my prob
Took it to a local small shop i once took my max to
and they said my "timing" may be off and that my timing chain could be messed.
Im pretty thats wrong because it runs fine after a minute or two running its a start up prob mostly. Taking it to another place tomm. morning ill tell you what they say.
Took it to a local small shop i once took my max to
and they said my "timing" may be off and that my timing chain could be messed.
Im pretty thats wrong because it runs fine after a minute or two running its a start up prob mostly. Taking it to another place tomm. morning ill tell you what they say.
#50
Trust me, this problem has nothing to do with internal engine work. Any shop telling you that is talking nonsense. Its been raining here heavily since the beginning of the week and today I attempted to check the CKPS REF sensor but now my hood release cable either burst or came loose...
But like stated in previous posts. It happened only that one day and I am still cranking much better but I am still taking advice from anyone that is following this thread.
But like stated in previous posts. It happened only that one day and I am still cranking much better but I am still taking advice from anyone that is following this thread.
#51
Agree with Trini....this isnt internal engine work. Did u ever change FPR or anything else like we discussed earlier. TO the untrained, start-up issues sound like internals, but for orgers its more like MAF, or IACV, or CPS or CKPS. THere are ways to do diagnostics per FSM yurself. Multimeter from walmart only 10 bucks and so invaluable.
I got the short ram intake so it only takes a few min to check TB and see it fouled or anythin. It never is, but i still kinda wipe it down while waitin for MAF to clean. I do it in my backyard. U in brooklyn NYC and aint no backyards there right???
I got the short ram intake so it only takes a few min to check TB and see it fouled or anythin. It never is, but i still kinda wipe it down while waitin for MAF to clean. I do it in my backyard. U in brooklyn NYC and aint no backyards there right???
#52
Agree with Trini....this isnt internal engine work. Did u ever change FPR or anything else like we discussed earlier. TO the untrained, start-up issues sound like internals, but for orgers its more like MAF, or IACV, or CPS or CKPS. THere are ways to do diagnostics per FSM yurself. Multimeter from walmart only 10 bucks and so invaluable.
I got the short ram intake so it only takes a few min to check TB and see it fouled or anythin. It never is, but i still kinda wipe it down while waitin for MAF to clean. I do it in my backyard. U in brooklyn NYC and aint no backyards there right???
I got the short ram intake so it only takes a few min to check TB and see it fouled or anythin. It never is, but i still kinda wipe it down while waitin for MAF to clean. I do it in my backyard. U in brooklyn NYC and aint no backyards there right???
#53
about to clean my MAF and i saw anothe sensor behind looked similiar so i figured id clean it to if could, cept i dont know what it is
What sensor is this?? it was right behind my MAF.
sorry bout the bad photos but im in a rush about to go to work
What sensor is this?? it was right behind my MAF.
sorry bout the bad photos but im in a rush about to go to work
#54
That's your Idle Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor. That's the device that threw me the code in my previous posts when I changed the FPR. Let me know what becomes of your situation after cleaning.
#55
#56
Just sprayed down both sensors with electronic contact cleaner spray from radio shack [$11]. should be all nice and try for tomm I'll put it back in and tell you what happens tomm. Off to annoyin work.
#57
..still difficult to start, but it didn't shutter and almost stall out [+1] so i guess the MAF clean helped somewhat
really dont think its the MAF (glad didnt buy new one)
when i get paid again i guess ill try the FPR
any other sensor or air prob i can check before to make sure.
NO CEL
really dont think its the MAF (glad didnt buy new one)
when i get paid again i guess ill try the FPR
any other sensor or air prob i can check before to make sure.
NO CEL
Last edited by Fenton3030; 04-07-2010 at 09:26 AM.
#58
..still difficult to start, but it didn't shutter and almost stall out [+1] so i guess the MAF clean helped somewhat
really dont think its the MAF (glad didnt buy new one)
when i get paid again i guess ill try the FPR
any other sensor or air prob i can check before to make sure.
NO CEL
really dont think its the MAF (glad didnt buy new one)
when i get paid again i guess ill try the FPR
any other sensor or air prob i can check before to make sure.
NO CEL
Ok so do what I did and change the FPR. It would make a drastic difference and then I will try this cleaning method as I am not having a minor misfiring at idle and tested all my coils and were good. It is storing the knock sensor code and I replaced it and it will not clear which means something is about to malfunction. It does not pick up as quick as it use to now but still fires right up besides that one day.
#59
Ok so do what I did and change the FPR. It would make a drastic difference and then I will try this cleaning method as I am not having a minor misfiring at idle and tested all my coils and were good. It is storing the knock sensor code and I replaced it and it will not clear which means something is about to malfunction. It does not pick up as quick as it use to now but still fires right up besides that one day.
#60
You gotta clean your throttle body with a toothbrush and throttle body spray guys. Same thing goes for the Idle air control valve which is right next to it.
Clean then both REAL GOOD im talking real clean and you will notice a difference IMMEDIATELY !!
The engine will spool up to 1500 rpm's and slowly drop back down to normal idle (around 800 or so)
I have done this on my 2 max's and both are now eager to rev and start on the first try. Fenton change your FPR too but try to change it AFTER TB and IACV cleaning that way if it was just dirty components bogging down your car, you just saved 80 bucks! If the cold start problem persists then change the FPR as your car may actually need it along with the Normal maintenance above.
When was the last time you changed your Spark plugs ?
Good luck guys !
Last edited by defiance; 04-07-2010 at 10:02 PM.
#61
You gotta clean your throttle body with a toothbrush and throttle body spray guys. Same thing goes for the Idle air control valve which is right next to it.
Clean then both REAL GOOD im talking real clean and you will notice a difference IMMEDIATELY !!
The engine will spool up to 1500 rpm's and slowly drop back down to normal idle (around 800 or so)
I have done this on my 2 max's and both are now eager to rev and start on the first try. Fenton change your FPR too but try to change it AFTER TB and IACV cleaning that way if it was just dirty components bogging down your car, you just saved 80 bucks! If the cold start problem persists then change the FPR as your car may actually need it along with the Normal maintenance above.
When was the last time you changed your Spark plugs ?
Good luck guys !
Clean then both REAL GOOD im talking real clean and you will notice a difference IMMEDIATELY !!
The engine will spool up to 1500 rpm's and slowly drop back down to normal idle (around 800 or so)
I have done this on my 2 max's and both are now eager to rev and start on the first try. Fenton change your FPR too but try to change it AFTER TB and IACV cleaning that way if it was just dirty components bogging down your car, you just saved 80 bucks! If the cold start problem persists then change the FPR as your car may actually need it along with the Normal maintenance above.
When was the last time you changed your Spark plugs ?
Good luck guys !
Well for me, I changed my spark plugs last summer with NGK Iridiums which ran me $45 for all 6. When I cleaned my throttle body 2 summers ago, I just detach the entire thing and bought three cans of TB cleaner and sprayed that sucker clean that it matched the outside but I guess I may have to do the same thing since thats what most people are going to recommend.
#62
I have not changed my spark plugs at all but I guess I'll do the cleaning and change my plugs but I change my MAF and the problem is still the same( this Monday I'll do the iacv and throttle body cleaning
#63
I have similar cold start issue, I have to pump gas couple of times and hold the gas peddle for few seconds, otherwise, the engine would shut off. According to Nissan manual, if this happens, it could be the sticky engine oil in cold temperature, Nissan recommend to hold the gas peddle 1/4 down then try to start, if still won't start, wait like 10 seconds and try again.
#64
Any update on this Fenton? Did you change your FPR yet? Did you notice the difference? Give us an update.
#65
gonna do the TB and IACV cleaning Monday. tell you how that goes
ill change the FPR next after the cleaning and tell you what happens then.
#66
For the future
For nearly every part project you are going to attack yourself, a junkyard pull or buying one from hthe classifieds is a low risk way to attack a problem you aren't 100% sure of. Most MAF's in the classifieds on this site would be under $50. I also find the removal at a junkyard to be a test run to doing the project yourself with no risk since its not your car :-)
Not criticizing, I just want you to try the lowest cost solution when possibly. While certain parts may be better off purchsed new, the MAF probably isn't one of them. Orger's can direct you to places to get good used parts on this site (Org Classifieds) and new ones (Courtesy Parts et al.).
Not criticizing, I just want you to try the lowest cost solution when possibly. While certain parts may be better off purchsed new, the MAF probably isn't one of them. Orger's can direct you to places to get good used parts on this site (Org Classifieds) and new ones (Courtesy Parts et al.).
Last edited by rdw72777; 04-18-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#67
you could also check your fuel pressure with the engine off and the key on(fuel pump priming period) it should read 43 psi. if its higher your fpr is bad. with engine idling the fuel pressure should be 34-36 psi. i would check it just to make sure. if the pressure is low it could be a clogged fuel filter. i would change the filter just to be safe. i think its pretty cheep also.
#68
Man' what made you change out your MAF? You said you was doing just a cleaning on it. We been working on this alternating between each other and i am telling you, you will notice a difference when you change out the FPR.
#69
Im thinking i may have a vacuum leak does any know where i can buy all the vacuum hoses id like to replace them all anyway just for maintenance and just to be sure.
Also i do plan on changing the FPR its just im been strapped for cash with random bills and payments and saving up for stuff.
plus its been raining here almost everyday soo thats put a damper on doing things
#70
I only changed my MAF because a shop said that was the prob that mine was actually bad. (not listening to them again)
Im thinking i may have a vacuum leak does any know where i can buy all the vacuum hoses id like to replace them all anyway just for maintenance and just to be sure.
Also i do plan on changing the FPR its just im been strapped for cash with random bills and payments and saving up for stuff.
plus its been raining here almost everyday soo thats put a damper on doing things
Im thinking i may have a vacuum leak does any know where i can buy all the vacuum hoses id like to replace them all anyway just for maintenance and just to be sure.
Also i do plan on changing the FPR its just im been strapped for cash with random bills and payments and saving up for stuff.
plus its been raining here almost everyday soo thats put a damper on doing things
#71
I only changed my MAF because a shop said that was the prob that mine was actually bad. (not listening to them again)
Im thinking i may have a vacuum leak does any know where i can buy all the vacuum hoses id like to replace them all anyway just for maintenance and just to be sure.
Also i do plan on changing the FPR its just im been strapped for cash with random bills and payments and saving up for stuff.
plus its been raining here almost everyday soo thats put a damper on doing things
Im thinking i may have a vacuum leak does any know where i can buy all the vacuum hoses id like to replace them all anyway just for maintenance and just to be sure.
Also i do plan on changing the FPR its just im been strapped for cash with random bills and payments and saving up for stuff.
plus its been raining here almost everyday soo thats put a damper on doing things
#72
i didnt really mean every single on just some i was suspicious of and the
FPR her is 80-90 dollars i just dont feel like shelling that out if thats not the solution. i do agree itd prolly help my car run better but id like to fix this problem not so much band-aid it.
but as for a long overdue update been super busy with side projects work and always some random event.
UPDATE-went to advance auto parts and used the OBDII reader and it said I have these codes P0325,P0136,P1400.
O2 sensor, EGRC solenoid, and knock sensor. ugh...Lame
#74
yo Fenton man,
i thought u changed the FPR long time ago. If the car sits for awhile like overnight and wont start up until the third crank, then its the FRP. If it starts up fine after being off for only a short time like 1 hr then its DEF FPR.
New MAF????? Naw man lol. U shd have jus cleaned the old one. Bet it still works.
i thought u changed the FPR long time ago. If the car sits for awhile like overnight and wont start up until the third crank, then its the FRP. If it starts up fine after being off for only a short time like 1 hr then its DEF FPR.
New MAF????? Naw man lol. U shd have jus cleaned the old one. Bet it still works.
#75
the problem i still the same and yeah i did all this awhile ago but i found out i have CEL codes that i didnt know about because the light never came on i just checkd for codes yesterday. and ended up with 3 diff ones
#79
Fenton,
I am having the same problem also. I plan to change the FPR in the next couple of weeks. I will purchase from rockauto.com. Their prices are very good. Recently bought rear calipers left and right. Returned the core to them and they promptly issued a credit. If you search the internet, they have 5% discount codes everywhere.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
I am having the same problem also. I plan to change the FPR in the next couple of weeks. I will purchase from rockauto.com. Their prices are very good. Recently bought rear calipers left and right. Returned the core to them and they promptly issued a credit. If you search the internet, they have 5% discount codes everywhere.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
#80
thanks for the rockauto website prices are really good so far from what ive seen
but what about the codes i pulled there in relation to the EGRC knock sensor and O2 sensor would those effect my performance directly with the start and driving performance performance probs
but what about the codes i pulled there in relation to the EGRC knock sensor and O2 sensor would those effect my performance directly with the start and driving performance performance probs
Last edited by Fenton3030; 04-30-2010 at 02:37 PM.