Cold Start Problem
03-11-2010, 01:40 PM
#1
Cold Start Problem
I have a 96 with a cold start up prob.
It cranks strong but wont turn over on the first try
2nd try turns over then clunks out
3rd try same thing
4th try turns over then starts to sputter with RPM shaking between 700 and 200
then starts to idle okay but starts self rev'in to around 1200 RPMs then idles back to around 1000
itll drive fine after 2/3 minutes and the start problem wont happen unless the cars not been running for awhile and has cool'd down all the way
itll start fine if i try starting it up again within 30-40 mins after turning it off.
ill give better description of the prob later. running late for work. plz help
It cranks strong but wont turn over on the first try
2nd try turns over then clunks out
3rd try same thing
4th try turns over then starts to sputter with RPM shaking between 700 and 200
then starts to idle okay but starts self rev'in to around 1200 RPMs then idles back to around 1000
itll drive fine after 2/3 minutes and the start problem wont happen unless the cars not been running for awhile and has cool'd down all the way
itll start fine if i try starting it up again within 30-40 mins after turning it off.
ill give better description of the prob later. running late for work. plz help
03-11-2010, 02:22 PM
#2
I have a 96 with a cold start up prob.
It cranks strong but wont turn over on the first try
2nd try turns over then clunks out
3rd try same thing
4th try turns over then starts to sputter with RPM shaking between 700 and 200
then starts to idle okay but starts self rev'in to around 1200 RPMs then idles back to around 1000
itll drive fine after 2/3 minutes and the start problem wont happen unless the cars not been running for awhile and has cool'd down all the way
itll start fine if i try starting it up again within 30-40 mins after turning it off.
ill give better description of the prob later. running late for work. plz help
It cranks strong but wont turn over on the first try
2nd try turns over then clunks out
3rd try same thing
4th try turns over then starts to sputter with RPM shaking between 700 and 200
then starts to idle okay but starts self rev'in to around 1200 RPMs then idles back to around 1000
itll drive fine after 2/3 minutes and the start problem wont happen unless the cars not been running for awhile and has cool'd down all the way
itll start fine if i try starting it up again within 30-40 mins after turning it off.
ill give better description of the prob later. running late for work. plz help
03-12-2010, 10:06 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
could be fuel pressure reguator. Its is a check valve that keeps the engine primed with gas so that the car will start with gas in or near injectors. Symptons are: after car has sat for a while the FPR will lose holding cabality and let gas travel back upstream and starve engine of gas. After 2 or 3 cranks the engine has enough gas to turn over.
THe FPR 80 bucks from autozone. It wont set off CEL...its not a sensor.
THe FPR 80 bucks from autozone. It wont set off CEL...its not a sensor.
03-12-2010, 04:32 PM
#7
could be fuel pressure reguator. Its is a check valve that keeps the engine primed with gas so that the car will start with gas in or near injectors. Symptons are: after car has sat for a while the FPR will lose holding cabality and let gas travel back upstream and starve engine of gas. After 2 or 3 cranks the engine has enough gas to turn over.
THe FPR 80 bucks from autozone. It wont set off CEL...its not a sensor.
THe FPR 80 bucks from autozone. It wont set off CEL...its not a sensor.
03-12-2010, 05:13 PM
#9
not to discredit u cashoit just saying go for the cheaper part first
Last edited by luke95gxe; 03-12-2010 at 05:27 PM.
03-12-2010, 05:41 PM
#10
my car had the same issue that u have described i think i have a video of it somewhere when it was cold out my car took 3 4 or 5 times to start then it would run fine ects was my problem but i got no code it cost me 14 bucks at the parts store i think i would go for that part before i throw 80 beans at a fuel pressure regulator
not to discredit u cashoit just saying go for the cheaper part first
not to discredit u cashoit just saying go for the cheaper part first
but the idiot attendant at advance auto parts kept telling me its a dealer part. and i just got aggravated and left. so ill try tomm. early morning before work. how can it be a "dealer part" when i can buy it online from you guys and any other autoparts store. Attendants answer: IDK??
03-12-2010, 06:18 PM
#11
it just crapped out on me with no CEL. Im gonna go with the ECTS first.
but the idiot attendant at advance auto parts kept telling me its a dealer part. and i just got aggravated and left. so ill try tomm. early morning before work. how can it be a "dealer part" when i can buy it online from you guys and any other autoparts store. Attendants answer: IDK??
but the idiot attendant at advance auto parts kept telling me its a dealer part. and i just got aggravated and left. so ill try tomm. early morning before work. how can it be a "dealer part" when i can buy it online from you guys and any other autoparts store. Attendants answer: IDK??
03-14-2010, 12:04 PM
#14
Okay I put in the new cts and gave it a few minutes after connecting everything I.e the the sensor and battery. TurnEd the ignition and it did the same thing still. I only tried once had to go to work
03-14-2010, 03:39 PM
#15
I have the same problem as you Fenton and after searing numerous times in these forums, I decided to go and order a FPR from the dealer. It does not come with the o-ring and have to purchase separate. The screws the dealer didn't have but I may use something different as I see numerous people say that the head will strip if it was never changed. It is a philip head and I haven't got a chance to replace mine as you know it is a flushout here in the northeast this past weekend so maybe the following weekend.
03-14-2010, 07:15 PM
#18
Yeah I already went that route myself with the ECTS. Well it is a waste but my car is near the 300K mark so I don't mind starting to change out some of these things since most of the stuff is original.
03-14-2010, 09:17 PM
#19
wow your way up there in mileage hope the FPR is your solution gonna take my car into the mechanic thursday to check it out.
03-15-2010, 08:48 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
my car had the same issue that u have described i think i have a video of it somewhere when it was cold out my car took 3 4 or 5 times to start then it would run fine ects was my problem but i got no code it cost me 14 bucks at the parts store i think i would go for that part before i throw 80 beans at a fuel pressure regulator
not to discredit u cashoit just saying go for the cheaper part first
not to discredit u cashoit just saying go for the cheaper part first
OP,
Gotta do a search for the FPR and Wxm, an org member (think that was his nickname
) . He had same problem as u and he made a write up for replacing FPR.EDit:
A quick search yeilded the thread i was referring to:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...?highlight=wxm
Last edited by cashoit; 03-15-2010 at 08:53 AM.
03-15-2010, 08:49 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
I have the same problem as you Fenton and after searing numerous times in these forums, I decided to go and order a FPR from the dealer. It does not come with the o-ring and have to purchase separate. The screws the dealer didn't have but I may use something different as I see numerous people say that the head will strip if it was never changed. It is a philip head and I haven't got a chance to replace mine as you know it is a flushout here in the northeast this past weekend so maybe the following weekend.
why u purchase from the dealer...u can get the part from autozone like 80 bucks
03-15-2010, 03:18 PM
#22
Well I go to the dealer now since I get a discount everytime I go there which makes the prices slightly higher or lower depending on the part. I paid $93 fromt he dealer for the part versus $125 or any other person.
03-17-2010, 04:58 AM
#24
03-17-2010, 10:46 AM
#26
Well I just got finished replacing the FPR and as I predicted, stripped one of the screws because it is a philip head... But after I replaced and reconnected back everything, it fired up way faster (2nd turnover vs 6 turnovers previously) and stayed on but now I have a check engine light Checked that I plugged in back everything and I don't feel any rough idling so I have to wait for my friend to bring me my computer to check it.
But I took it for a drive to the dealer because I needed a radiator cap and it drove nicely. Even after getting back in after leaving the dealer, fired up on 1st turnover. I would have to wait and see if it would get back cold enough and test again but the car was never turned on for the day till I replaced the FPR. Will keep you guys posted.
Checked that I plugged in back everything and I don't feel any rough idling so I have to wait for my friend to bring me my computer to check it.But I took it for a drive to the dealer because I needed a radiator cap and it drove nicely. Even after getting back in after leaving the dealer, fired up on 1st turnover. I would have to wait and see if it would get back cold enough and test again but the car was never turned on for the day till I replaced the FPR. Will keep you guys posted.
03-17-2010, 11:55 AM
#27
maybe it needed to start twice to get all the fuel fully pressurized and to the injectors? like a fuel cut switch when started with it activated...fuel runs out of the line and when switched off, it takes just a tad bit longer to start up. maybe the code came on because of this...and does not turn off automatically?
03-17-2010, 03:30 PM
#28
maybe it needed to start twice to get all the fuel fully pressurized and to the injectors? like a fuel cut switch when started with it activated...fuel runs out of the line and when switched off, it takes just a tad bit longer to start up. maybe the code came on because of this...and does not turn off automatically?
Update: I got the computer from my friend and have 2 codes. P0325 knock sensor which was replaced last summer so I don't understand why that is there and P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor. Going to double check that sensor and clear codes. Ordered a new air duct as mine starting to tear apart. With 15 years of age and 297K, things like this would happen.
03-18-2010, 11:46 AM
#31
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
Hi...I have a dumb question...where is the FPR located? Any pics?
I did a search, and after going thru the first 3 pages out of 10, I can't seem to locate it..I also checked the FSM and still can't locate it.. I was searching under "Fuel Pressure Regulator".
Thanks
I did a search, and after going thru the first 3 pages out of 10, I can't seem to locate it..I also checked the FSM and still can't locate it.. I was searching under "Fuel Pressure Regulator".
Thanks
03-18-2010, 04:57 PM
#32
That's the FPR which I changed. Have to remove throttle body to get to it and expect to get new screws as I stripped the heads on mine.
03-19-2010, 04:02 AM
#34
Yes the FPR did fix my problem. Even when starting from cold, it starts on the 2nd turnover just as if it was warm. Now I have an intermittent coilpack issue and not sure how I will find out which one it is. Sometimes when I do a warm start, it shakes a bit for like 10 to 15 seconds and then back to normal. Doesn't do it all the time though.
03-19-2010, 02:18 PM
#36
03-19-2010, 02:30 PM
#38
Its not bad but when you do use a philips screw driver, make sure its a long one that you can apply a heavy force and turn same time because if your heads completely strip, it will be hell to get out especially the bottom one. I had to use three different philip head screw drivers. I am not trying to scare you but prevent the worst.
03-19-2010, 05:09 PM
#39
Its not bad but when you do use a philips screw driver, make sure its a long one that you can apply a heavy force and turn same time because if your heads completely strip, it will be hell to get out especially the bottom one. I had to use three different philip head screw drivers. I am not trying to scare you but prevent the worst.
03-24-2010, 05:45 PM
#40
2ND UPDATE: Well after one week, I guess it was too good to be true but this morning, when I started it it still turned over on the 2nd turn but it turned itself right back off . This is getting ridiculous now.. I need someone to give me a second input on this and I already replaced the ECTS first so if someone had this problem before, please post!
. This is getting ridiculous now.. I need someone to give me a second input on this and I already replaced the ECTS first so if someone had this problem before, please post!