kolbpilot

If ready to go replacement mounts are out there as somebody else said, than that's the way to go (imho), along with a a spot of welding.

1998I30t

No worries. As you can see I've been registered here for several years and have made good use of these boards thru research to get answers to my questions. The first time I offer any input in the spirit of contributing for the potential benefit of others..well yeah, I guess you could say the reply I received is a bad way to encourage new posters to even bother posting on the .org
Water under the bridge man.

sryth

It may save you a few hours of work, but I would recommend doing a full replacement. I spent ~$150 for the support, and probably another $10 for paint and bolts. It took me a few hours to do it, and you can get away with using only a few tools:

Cold chisel, hammer, rotary tool (dremel) with cutoff wheel, socket set, drill/bits...I think that's all I needed. I used a die grinder to clean up the welds where the new piece mated up, but I wouldn't hesitate to do that with my rotary tool.

You might need a tap/tap wrench, depending on whether bolts shear off, but that's a $20 problem. I always look at the savings of doing these repairs myself as a way to pad my toolbox with new stuff

If you don't have access to these tools, then maybe taking it somewhere to get it done is the best option for you. I'd definitely spend the extra money to replace it with a factory piece, as the rust is typically not only at the bottom of the support. Mine was rusted throughout, including the sides and above where the radiator sits.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

if you all think yours is bad you should see mine, ill get some pics of it tonight before it gets dark and then you can tell me if yours was THAT bad

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I dunno man. I wish I had took pics of mine before it was done but mine was very bad...to the point I had to use one of those clothes hangars and wrap the upper radiator hose to the upper radiator support.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

yeah mines not that bad, however my crossmember is about 3.5 inches lower than where it should be, im not going to wait much longer, i can get a whole support from Certifit for 38 bucks, so im gonna do that and replace the whole thing, it doesnt really take much longer,especially when you have two people working on it...

jdooley

I tried the Certifit route and was not happy, it was made from a gauge of steel that was only 1/3 as thick as the OEM mount. I broke down and went for a new OEM mount at $150.
I have some pictures available that compare sections of the Certifit part with the new OEM one.
I also attempted to use the upper portion of the Certifit mount but that didn't work out either. I ended up using my original upper mount along with the new lower mount.
In Certifits defense, I also bought some fog lights from them and they're just fine. I think they were around $40 each about one and a half years ago.

doctord15151

Was the certifit part cheaper than the OEM one? I was going to go with it but now i dont know.

doctord15151

Also what kind of paint would you recommend or did you use?

jdooley

Yes the Certifit was cheaper than the OEM (about 1/3 the price). I just checked their website http://www.certifit.com/images/catalogs/Catalog5.pdf and the entire support assembly was only $43.75!
Based on my experience with these parts I think they're only intended to be used by shoddy resellers or anyone who just doesn't care.
As for paint, I'm probably not the guy to ask. I just sprayed over the welded area with some Krylon that was intended for rusty metal. I had some pretty grand plans about protecting it, before I got into it, but then I figured if it lasts another 10 or so years, by then I'll be ready for a new car.
I also hope to inspect it more often/thoroughly in hopes that I can prevent it from happening again.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

I'm seeing $141+ $18 shipping.

Mistertones

I failed inspection last year b/c of a rusted radiator support. I took it to another shop (very old mom and pop shop) and passed. I'm not sure if it was the shop, or the shop I went to didn't care. I have my inspection due this Saturday, I don't know where to go this time..

ivokirkov

Just got an estimate for the lower tie bar replacement with OEM parts - $380 total(reputable place as well). That is in the vicinity of Boston - not a bad deal especially given the fact that my support is gone. Literally gone. The radiator came off and is leaning against the engine.
Do you guys know if the support affects steering? I have the feeling that the car wanders off when I am driving. Ball joints, tie rod ends and alignment are good - had them done recently.
Does the radiator support stiffen the frame upfront?

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't affect steering, but yes it stiffys up the front frame.

Shouldn't drive the car all that much if your support is completely broken, if your radiator pops off the hoses.....bad.

mtc1328

I just thought I'd throw in my story here, as I just purchased a 1996 Maxima GXE, and the major problem it had was a severly rusted radiator support bar. I found the similar posts a big help, while also making me question how much more damage this Max was going to do to my wallet. Fortunately it was a lot less than I had anticipated.

The Max needed the support to be replaced. It was in really bad form, with only one of the two mounts not rusted through, and the one was barely intact. The engine was bouncing and hitting the cradle, and even ended up doing a little damage to the A/C compressor. Fortunately nothing else needed repair.

I did not have the tools or the time, so I took it to be replaced. I had the lower radiator support bar replaced, with other fabrication, plus labor, for $600 total. The OEM lower support piece cost $180 alone.

Seems as though I may have paid too much, but considering how a boucing engine could do great damage in the long run, it was worth the piece of mind.

The forum was/is a big help in helping me learn the ins and outs of my new ride. Much appreciated!

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

allow me to say this, i would rather have someone else's *** on the line if it were to ever fail than my own.

awfiretto

Well Ill try to make this story short. Here Goes it.

Totaled my baby. Infiniti I30 98! Black on Black withe Black tinted windows.
LOVED THAT CAR but it was gone. Insurance left me with 900 after loan payout.

So looking all over. Needed car to go pick up my GF at the time from Marine Boot Camp. Came across this White maxima 99. Rusted bad. But ran well. stopped.. And 800 bc it could not pass pa insp. 132k on it.. SOLD.

Radiator support worthless on her. I mean zip ties help my rad in place and my hood bounces up and down with the wind bc that is also supposed to be connected there. Needless to say it made it 700 miles to parris island and back with my love.

So long story short we are happily married now 6 months later.

The car is named Casper (younger cuter "ghost" of my Infiniti) ;-) Did some rando things to Casper. Brakes and blah blah.. But I am now at 155k on this max. And have yet to do the rad support. Mainly bc its so rusted I am scared If i take it apart it wont go back together. Broken quite a few bolts.

Either way.. Just saying I have driving cross country and a lot more with this baby and Casper Is still going strong.. its your call but if you dont have the time or the cash to do it. I really would not sweat it to much.. Just try not to go rallying in it. lol

Hope yal enjoyed. Casper and my amazing wife "marine" are now in the cali desert as one happy family.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

Dude watch what you say, once its rotted all the way through and it drops 4 inches like mine did, everything in the engine bay is shifted and with the amount of torque our cars produce you risk damaging items under the hood, mine is being held up right now with a tiedown strap sadly to say i havent had the funds to do it,as my 8 month old comes before my car however it IS something that should be change within a reasonable amount of time, the support itself is fairly cheap and the only thing that makes it "hard" to change is breaking the welds and rewelding the spot weld points aside from that its fairly simple to do....

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

+1. Also, that extra drop does put a strain on your axles...and your tranny mount...the longer you take, the more its going cost you in the long run.

5150pa

Yikes, 4 inches?

Sounds like more than a core-support failure there. Did you lose other mounts? What happened?

Cebby

iTrader: (6)

Mine was too far gone so I bought the Nissan replacement and installed.

A few notes from my install:

If your rad support is really rusty, most of your other nuts/bolts will be rusty too. Hit them with PB Blaster a few times prior to putting a wrench to them. It will help save some of them.

There are a lot of welds to drill out - over 40 total. Some in places you can't get a drill to. Chisel and hammer (3lb sledge FTW) will take care of those that you can't drill out. For drilling out the welds, I used a large bit and just went deep enough to break the weld.

You can plan on all of the speed nuts and bolts holding the splash guard on to be completely seized. Why Nissan didn't use plastic fasteners down there is a mystery.

On the passenger side, go in through the wheelwell to get at the bumper-to-fender nuts (washer reservoir in the way so you can't come up from the bottom like on the driver side). Turn your wheels full left and pull the 1st & 2nd screws out of the liner with a stubby phillips to gain access.

Use wire ties to hold your radiator up while R & R.

If you can get a wrench on the back of the latch support piece while it's still partially attached to the car, do it. If not, it's tough to get that bolt out when it seized and there's nothing to apply leverage against. You end up torquing the bracket (why Nissan welded this to the core support, I'll never understand).

Don't go nuts on the torque on the bumper brackets. I sheared off the stud on the driver side with mild force (drilled out and welded in a new stud - had them laying around, not metric tho)

Generally, the front end comes apart pretty easy - fighting with rusty fasteners is what makes things a PITA. First time I've taken a Nissan apart - aside from a gazillion fasteners, it wasn't bad. At least there's pretty much only two fastener sizes.

One tool that made this easier is a 10mm socket w/integral universal joint (headlights, passenger side bumper-to-fender nuts).

I started taking pics of the teardown, but it was taking to long to stop and shoot pics, so it ended somewhere along the way...

deezo

iTrader: (3)

I have the same problem since my car spent most of it's time going thru the NE winters. Tranny is getting rebuilt now so the shop is going to send the car to their welder to weld in a whole strip of 1/4 steel. I told them I want the strip to go from as far left they can go to as far right as they can go.

Cebby

iTrader: (6)

Mine was rotted in the middle and also at the ends. I had planned to weld some plate in there, but it was too far gone. If your car was from the NE, then I'd check and see if there's anything substantial enough left to weld to.

StillBlessed

Where in Boston did you get your radiator support fixed for that price? Was that including the price of the part?

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

That is dirt cheap for the part and labor

It's at least a 2 to 4 hour job

The part (just lower support) costs around $150

jturkey69

wow guys, well after last night my wife said the battery light and brake light came on, I came on here, diagnosed a failing alternator, and bought one today. I jack up the car, start removing some of the plastic sheild, and lo and behold I find the main engine cradle completely dis-connected from the rad support due to rust. so far my plan was to call up my welding 4x4 building buddies, and see what can be done as she needs her car daily. I do understand the importance of replacing it with a factory piece, however, if the rust doesnt extend all along the support, then I may go with my buddies. We do have a Certifit nearby, and the part is only 40 bucks, so if I can bandaid it so to speak, until I can sell this dam muscle car we have and get a third vehicle, I can replace it like factory.

interesting note..we bought this car this year from a guy in Madison,wi, and he said the a/c didnt work, and the hub looks like he had tried to mutilate it with a BFH...well, with the main engine cradle lower by about an inch or so, if one was hot rodding it so to speak, I wonder if some torsional force ended the a/c compressors life? I also wonder if this would have anything to do with clutch engagement, handling, torque steer, etc.
sigh..I just wanted to replace the alternator and look at the shiny new warpspeed y-pipe..lol

98_SMAXIMA

Why hasnt anyone fabbed up their own crossmember which would be stronger than oem and that aftermarket #%@!. Is it the welding thats involved or the lack of actual knowledge. I have mine apart right now i am going to get a Peice of angle iron 1/8 inch thick put plates on the end to mount up where the tow hooks used to be. Drill the holes where the tow hooks used to be. Then cut small tabs for the rad support either end. Then drill holes where your engine mount goes in...bolt in then weld thethe ends and bolt em and your good to go...i have pics i will post up l8tr(sorry to thread jack)

jturkey69

this is what we plan on doing..sorry if it sounded as if we werent. its a 2000 dollar car on its best day maybe cuz of all the miles, so I plan on making a template out of cardboard this morning, and dropping it off at my buddies and let them do their magic..lol as for knowledge, I have, just not the tools, or materials.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Had mine rewelded with new steel but I feel I got raped at $400 to do the job. But hey, the fix cured the vibration I was having at highway speeds. My car hasn't been this smooth in years.

98_SMAXIMA

you guys should love this
i just finished mine yesterday i took a toyota front bumper(the rebar) and cut it to fit. then i used the tow hooks as the ends so i could bolt it up. welded the tow hooks to the bumper and...done the curvature in the bumper was actually perfect so it looks like a stock crossmember. so i guess this makes it a maximota...total my cost was bout $30...would i do it again...yes but what a pita...pics to follow

smx2

I am from NewZealand and have a NZ Steve Millen SMX Maxima. The radiator surround now needs attention, but not using salt on the roads is not as rusty as the majority I have seen in this thread. I have taken it to a rust repairer who will cut the rust out and fisholine it, using 1/16 plate in places. He only has access to an engine chain, axle stands and ramps. I am a little nervous about getting the car put on ramps, as the body kit could get damaged, can this job be done on axle stands and is it possible to gain access to the lower radiator support area for welding, by wiring up the radiator and drop the front 2 bolts on the north-south engine cradle, supporting this all by under the gearbox?
Just wondering if this job can be done on my auto trans car, without having to take radiator out completely, and would you have to undo the transmission cooler lines?
An OEM replacement is out of the question, as by the time it was shipped to NZ the cost would be prohibitive for me. The radiator support is not that bad on the car, and I think if the area was also PO15 then it should last awhile. The guy doing the job says 400 - 600 and I think that is reasonable, given the extra effort I have asked to preserve it as best as possible

Maxima1802

sryth, did you end up welding or just leaving the fasteners? Thanks.

svezarov

I am also wondering if anyone ever left it un-welded. Lots of people intend not to do it, but have not heard any feedback so far as of the results of not welding. So I repeat the question: Does someone has good results after not welding the core?

sryth

Sorry for such a delay in the response...I left it unwelded, and all is well. I'm convinced the spot welds were only there to secure the support during the manufacturing process.

weezeey

Wow this thread makes me really glad to live on the west coast. Road salt=car murder!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I took my bumper off 2 weeks ago so I peeked at my support. My support wasn't as bad as the pictures on this thread so I just wire brushed everything I could reach then sprayed on some rust converter.

I agree with you on those spot welds. I might replace the support next spring and won't even bother borrowing my friends mig welder.

Thanks for informing us on how your replaced lower radiator support stands today without using spot welds.

mikeg75

I took my 95 Max SE to a local S. Philly body shop and got quoted $600 for the lower radiator support job. There are gaping holes in my lower rad support but it's not broken yet. I'm probably going to get it done after my Dec. visa bill hits.

mikeg75

WTF you be talking about Willis?

comingup

On my old Max, I drove about 70,000 miles not knowing it was even broken.

And I didn't just drive. I rocked that ****.

I'm talking 143 mph runs for miles on the back roads, highway, fast starts, etc.

Once I realized it was broken (I was pretty sure it was broken the whole time) I welded a small piece of metal diagonally from the front of the crossmember to the bottom of bumber. Worked like a charm for me but not my car anymore.

Just bought my replacement for 166 shipped from courtesy parts, going to tackle this next weekend, delivery permitting.

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

You attached metal where?? Im having a hard time picturing your repair.