Everyone who has done a 00vi swap, who has done an IACV delete?

I am deleting my IACV and was curious on what you guys did as far as block-off plates and such.. Sensors? How does the car drive when warm?

I have done an EGR delete so I know about the block-off plates, I just didnt know if there was something else I needed to know..

I have searched and didnt find much.. Thanks

 

It helps to know what setup you're using. An A33 TB would need a blockoff plate, an A32 TB would not.

 

I have a A33 TB, 2000 3.0DEK

What about the sensors? Just leave them unplugged?

When I did my EGR delete if I left them unplugged I couldnt go over 2900rpm

 

you cant delete IACV. You need it to maintain idle.

 

When the car warms up the IACV is not needed.

Are block-off plates the only thing needed?

 

good luck not stalling at red lights.

 

Do you have first hand experience with this?

 

there is no benefit in deleting the IACV, just take your USDM IM and a sawzall and make an IACV adapter plate with it. I haven't done this first hand but i know of people using this method.

 

All I want to do is remove my IACV.. I believe mine is going bad and don't want to worry about replacing it or my computer..

So all that's needed is a block off plate?

 

It's possible to run the car without an IACV, the OP is wondering how many people have actually done it.

*Check FSM on IACV operation...

 

i just dont see the point in removing something that was designed to help your engine. I see no benefit and a road full of headaches from going through with this.

but whatever, do what you want.

 

So why did you join this thread? You obviously don't know what your talking about.

Thanks tho

 

It's possible to run without an IACV, but you'll have to crank open the throttle plate or always feather the gas, so - cheapness aside - why?

To the OP. Just bypass the coolant hose that goes through the A33 IACV, plug those hoses, unplug the IACV sensor, yank the CEL bulb out of your cluster (ha), adjust the stop screw to open up the throttle plate, calibrate your TPS and rock on.

 

I realize I will have to feather the gas while its cold..
My car not a daily driver, its a project thats getting tuned, ect.

I dont want to deal with the IACV going bad..

Bamboomerang, exactly the info I was looking for.. I was hoping that somebody who has done it would step it.. I know people have done it.

 

I still have to feather the gas (usually only one or two times) on cold mornings with my 00VI swap, even with an IACV. I am back to using a 4th gen IACV and never had any luck with a perfect idle with either the 4th or 5th gen IACVs.

 

People do it on 3.5 swaps, but its more justified. Oh and to clarify what I mentioned, plug the 'hose' hard lines coming off the IACV. On second thought, it might be possible to let coolant run through it if you decide to leave the valve on, have you just tried simply unplugging it? The less you have to open the TB plate the better, so if you can get air going around it, even at a fix setting (without ECU input) that might work too.

I haven't done it, but I've got a blocked off A33 TB on my 01 UIM. So you can either keep the A33 IACV on, or remove it and blockoff the bottom of the TB, just get a piece of aluminum or thick sheet metal (I used a road sign), cut it to size, drill holes for the bolts, and use some gasketmaker. Its the easiest blockoff to make. I'm sure you could fool the harness with a resistor of some sort, otherwise I'm not too sure how the ECU will react on a 5th gen.

 

It's possible, using an A32 IACV w/blockoff + hose (3/4 ID) and A33 TB. Mine starts exactly the same no matter what the temp is, - or + 20 celsius, snow or sun, other than the kick in the pants, you wouldn't know my car is swapped. Check my posts in hornepirates 00vi swap thread in the all motor section, the trick is an almost stock IACV position, short hoses, an A32 TPS on an A33 TB that mimics the cold position on an A32 TB.

 

Ive got a IACV for sale if you need one....

Im still kinda confused..

Why not just keep the IACV attached unplug it and set the idle with the Idle Adjust Screw?

Or if using the 4th gen IACV take your old USDM IM and cut off the IACV port area and make a Adapter plate like i mentioned. Than a Nipple and what not and you can simply run the hose to the Nipple by the TB.

If your DEAD SET on deleting it, just make a quick block off plate for the 5th gen TB IACV port and forget about it.

 

Im good on another IACV, thanks tho

Ill see about just unplugging it, im delete all the stuff thats not necessary on my maxima, EGR, IACV, PS, ect...

Im still researching on the pros of doing an entire delete vs just unplugging it.

 

So if I just unplug the 2 connectors, will I get a short?

I know I will get a SES light, I already have one so I could care less.....

 

A couple ounces of weight reduction and easier access to the vacuum gallery. Don't leave the plug exposed to the elements, but if you're not doing a 'hood delete' don't sweat it mang.

 

Just guessing that he joined the thread because it is named "Everyone with a 00vi swap step inside.."

He probably has an 00vi setup. Just guessin'.

 

Dont have the swap but i wanted to chime in anyways...

I would think for the 00 swap u need the 5th gen IACV. Because of no 5th gen EGR, the flows are differnet. ANd because of no 5th gen ECU, u never gonna have a "perfect" swap. U have to fool the ECU to get it to work. And because we not programmers, u have to fool the ECU mechanically somehow.

Think u have 2 options: Delete the IACV, blank it off somehow, crack the TB a lil to maintain idle, and thats it. Or u can keep IACV, disconnect the connectors, use the screw to adjust idle. no matter what u gonna have CEL light so what does it matter why its on as long as the car running strong.