P0305/P0325 codes
#1
P0305/P0325 codes
I was driving up a steep hill today shortly after starting the car up and experienced some engine noise I hadn't heard before and then the check engine light came on.
I took the car to a shop and they scanned it for nothing. It shows P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected and P0325 knock sensor or circuit fault. I suspect the cylinder no. 5 misfire triggered the knock sensor code.
The mechanic at the shop said the car probably needs a tune up and he would start by replacing all the plugs.
I am standing there with my Haynes manual in hand looking at the list of codes and saying that I replaced the OEM plugs three years ago at 108,000 kilometres and I am just coming up to 133,000 kilometres and am running OEM laser platinum plugs and doubt that they need to be replaced, although I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at the plug in cylinder no. 5.
He then said maybe try switching the no. 5 coil to the no. 1 position and vice versa. If the no. 5 code went away and no. 1 was triggered I guess this would point to a bad coil on no. 5 cylinder. None of the coils have ever been replaced.
Alternatively, perhaps it is simply a connector problem which is a cheaper fix.
I know there are tests that can be conducted with an ohmeter.
Any advice on resolving this problem would be appreciated.
It is a long weekend here in Canada. Some of the parts stores are open on Sunday and Monday, but there warehouses are closed and there drivers are off so they aren't moving parts from store to store.
Is there any harm done in driving the car for 50 or 60 miles with a faulty coil?. I suspect not.
Thanks
I took the car to a shop and they scanned it for nothing. It shows P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected and P0325 knock sensor or circuit fault. I suspect the cylinder no. 5 misfire triggered the knock sensor code.
The mechanic at the shop said the car probably needs a tune up and he would start by replacing all the plugs.
I am standing there with my Haynes manual in hand looking at the list of codes and saying that I replaced the OEM plugs three years ago at 108,000 kilometres and I am just coming up to 133,000 kilometres and am running OEM laser platinum plugs and doubt that they need to be replaced, although I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at the plug in cylinder no. 5.
He then said maybe try switching the no. 5 coil to the no. 1 position and vice versa. If the no. 5 code went away and no. 1 was triggered I guess this would point to a bad coil on no. 5 cylinder. None of the coils have ever been replaced.
Alternatively, perhaps it is simply a connector problem which is a cheaper fix.
I know there are tests that can be conducted with an ohmeter.
Any advice on resolving this problem would be appreciated.
It is a long weekend here in Canada. Some of the parts stores are open on Sunday and Monday, but there warehouses are closed and there drivers are off so they aren't moving parts from store to store.
Is there any harm done in driving the car for 50 or 60 miles with a faulty coil?. I suspect not.
Thanks
#2
I'd say bad coil. You can Ohm them, I posted the bad/good readings I took in a post a few years ago. Dang Bobo, 15 years. You going to try and get 20 years out of that 95?
Last edited by JwaxMax99; 05-22-2010 at 08:18 PM.
#3
It may just be coincidental if it is a coil that it went going up a steep hill.
I have owned this car since day 1. It only has 82,500 mostly highway miles on it, so it may last another 20 years but I may not.
I guess some things that go are a function of the age of the vehicle rather than the miles on it.
I have owned this car since day 1. It only has 82,500 mostly highway miles on it, so it may last another 20 years but I may not.
I guess some things that go are a function of the age of the vehicle rather than the miles on it.
#4
I got the coil replaced today and am now good to go.
The car is very low mileage (just over 82,500 mostly highway miles) but I took delivery on it on October 1, 1994 so I have had it for over 15-1/2 years. I guess electrical things can go over time despite the mileage.
I replaced the starter last year, but still have the original alternator.
The car is very low mileage (just over 82,500 mostly highway miles) but I took delivery on it on October 1, 1994 so I have had it for over 15-1/2 years. I guess electrical things can go over time despite the mileage.
I replaced the starter last year, but still have the original alternator.
Last edited by Bobo; 05-24-2010 at 08:32 AM.
#6
I had the P0325 code but the codes were cleared after the coil pack was installed.
I stomped on the accelerator on the freeway yesterday and the car seems to run like it always has. The CEL has not come back on.
Are you referring to checking for a "ghost code." I am not sure how to do that. I think my knock sensor is working properly.
What octane gas have you run over time?
I stomped on the accelerator on the freeway yesterday and the car seems to run like it always has. The CEL has not come back on.
Are you referring to checking for a "ghost code." I am not sure how to do that. I think my knock sensor is working properly.
What octane gas have you run over time?
#8
I threw some Chevron Techron in a week or so ago in advance of my next oil change. It is the fuel system concentrate version.
I have a data base of all the maintenance done on my car since day 1. Someone posted some useful pointers on replacing the KS a few weeks ago and I typed it up and saved it for posterity.
I don't believe I have to replace my KS at this time. I have about a 50-mile round trip drive I have to make tomorrow, which includes freeway driving.
Not using the car today. This drive should give me a pretty good indication of how the car is running.
I have a data base of all the maintenance done on my car since day 1. Someone posted some useful pointers on replacing the KS a few weeks ago and I typed it up and saved it for posterity.
I don't believe I have to replace my KS at this time. I have about a 50-mile round trip drive I have to make tomorrow, which includes freeway driving.
Not using the car today. This drive should give me a pretty good indication of how the car is running.
#9
#10
Your knock sensor did not benefit from your mom using 87 octane gas for 24k.
I have never put a drop of straight 87 octane in my Maxima in its entire life. Historically it has run on 89 octane, which is a better gasoline here in British Columbia than it is in Washington state. I am currently running a 91 octane blend, which I mix myself at Chevron using a combination of 94 octane & 87 octane. This works out to virtually the same price (slightly higher) than pumping 89 octane. Anything to save a dime, lol!
I have never put a drop of straight 87 octane in my Maxima in its entire life. Historically it has run on 89 octane, which is a better gasoline here in British Columbia than it is in Washington state. I am currently running a 91 octane blend, which I mix myself at Chevron using a combination of 94 octane & 87 octane. This works out to virtually the same price (slightly higher) than pumping 89 octane. Anything to save a dime, lol!
#11
Knock Sensor and O2 sensor light
Pulled codes: P0325 and P0140.
I had the O2 sensors replaced less than a month ago, as well as the mass flow sensor since the car was stalling while I would be driving and there was a lot of buckling. Since then the car is running pretty well, but the engine light came on randomly a week or so ago.
I have a '99 with a little over 320k miles on it. The mechanic that replaced the sensors said 3 of my coils looked pretty bad. I'm guessing this would cause the knock sensor? I've found sites that tell you how to change the coils, but no good ones on how to diagnose which coils are bad. Also, he said I should replace the catalytic converter, should I? Thanks
I had the O2 sensors replaced less than a month ago, as well as the mass flow sensor since the car was stalling while I would be driving and there was a lot of buckling. Since then the car is running pretty well, but the engine light came on randomly a week or so ago.
I have a '99 with a little over 320k miles on it. The mechanic that replaced the sensors said 3 of my coils looked pretty bad. I'm guessing this would cause the knock sensor? I've found sites that tell you how to change the coils, but no good ones on how to diagnose which coils are bad. Also, he said I should replace the catalytic converter, should I? Thanks
#12
Pulled codes: P0325 and P0140.
I had the O2 sensors replaced less than a month ago, as well as the mass flow sensor since the car was stalling while I would be driving and there was a lot of buckling. Since then the car is running pretty well, but the engine light came on randomly a week or so ago.
I have a '99 with a little over 320k miles on it. The mechanic that replaced the sensors said 3 of my coils looked pretty bad. I'm guessing this would cause the knock sensor? I've found sites that tell you how to change the coils, but no good ones on how to diagnose which coils are bad. Also, he said I should replace the catalytic converter, should I? Thanks
I had the O2 sensors replaced less than a month ago, as well as the mass flow sensor since the car was stalling while I would be driving and there was a lot of buckling. Since then the car is running pretty well, but the engine light came on randomly a week or so ago.
I have a '99 with a little over 320k miles on it. The mechanic that replaced the sensors said 3 of my coils looked pretty bad. I'm guessing this would cause the knock sensor? I've found sites that tell you how to change the coils, but no good ones on how to diagnose which coils are bad. Also, he said I should replace the catalytic converter, should I? Thanks
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ons-coils.html
Post 17 thru 19 explains how to test them.
Last edited by jholley; 07-21-2010 at 06:41 PM.
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