Help please, LCA install trouble
Help please, LCA install trouble
ok, ive been working on this all weekend. i have everything out and trying to put it back together.
Is there a trick to getting everything to line up? if i have the knuckle bolted up, i cant get the ball joint in, if i have the knuckle bolts out i can get the ball joint in but i cant get the top knuckle bolt in. Am i doing anything wrong? i'm about fed up with it..


please help
Is there a trick to getting everything to line up? if i have the knuckle bolted up, i cant get the ball joint in, if i have the knuckle bolts out i can get the ball joint in but i cant get the top knuckle bolt in. Am i doing anything wrong? i'm about fed up with it..



please help
Bolting the knuckle to the strut is the last step. It takes a lot of pushing and pulling in three dimensions, but eventually you'll figure out how to get it to line up. An alignment punch, sometimes called a line-up tool, helps a lot. You can get one at Sears. After I get the bolt holes approximately lined up, I shove an alignment punch in the lower bolt hole and use it like a lever to align the top hole. After the top bolt is in, I put the bottom one in and wiggle the knuckle around while shoving the bolt through with the other hand.
I've never ever had trouble aligning the spindle/knuckle until the day I had my axle separate causing things to be really tight. If you're having trouble, look into your axle, you may have "dislocated" the joint
First put the ball joint in the spindle and tighten it and make sure you put a new cotter pin
Second, get the axle in there CAREFULLY so you dont strip the threads on it
Third, get the spindle in the strut and if you have to, just use a long screw driver to get one of the holes aligned but you shouldn't have trouble unless the axle snapped out of place.
Fourth, put the tie rod end into the spindle and tighten nut along with new cotter pin. Dont forget to tighten your axle nut and also use a cotter pin.
First put the ball joint in the spindle and tighten it and make sure you put a new cotter pin
Second, get the axle in there CAREFULLY so you dont strip the threads on it
Third, get the spindle in the strut and if you have to, just use a long screw driver to get one of the holes aligned but you shouldn't have trouble unless the axle snapped out of place.
Fourth, put the tie rod end into the spindle and tighten nut along with new cotter pin. Dont forget to tighten your axle nut and also use a cotter pin.
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+1 on the CV joint seperation. If it's popped out within the boot, your going to have one hell of a time getting everything to line up. It should all go back together very easily.
Are both front wheels off the ground? If not, your fighting the sway bar too!
Are both front wheels off the ground? If not, your fighting the sway bar too!
The drive shafts easily pop back into the transaxle. When I replaced my LCAs a few months ago I had to remove the drive shafts to saw off the rusted cotter pins and nuts.
If it's only a CV joint seperation then that also just pops back into place.
If it's only a CV joint seperation then that also just pops back into place.
Last edited by jholley; Jun 3, 2010 at 09:37 AM.
ok, i will have to look at that tonight to see if it has separated, that would make sense.
It aught to drive like a new car when im done, or at least it better! New inner/outer tierods, new balljoints, new endlinks, and new LCA bushings
It aught to drive like a new car when im done, or at least it better! New inner/outer tierods, new balljoints, new endlinks, and new LCA bushings
I am very curious how this turns out for you. I am about to undertake a similar situation. I am wondering how much it improves your ride.
ok, the driver's side was EASY very easy.
the passenger side is still giving me hell!
i cant get the strut assembly to go in at all, there is plenty of side to side movement but no inward movement. Is there a easy way to tell if the CV axle has come apart in the boot? i visually inspected both boots and they look fine, would it be a noticeable thing to see? this is the only thing i have left to do is get the ball joint lined up!
any suggestions are very welcome!
thank you
the passenger side is still giving me hell!
i cant get the strut assembly to go in at all, there is plenty of side to side movement but no inward movement. Is there a easy way to tell if the CV axle has come apart in the boot? i visually inspected both boots and they look fine, would it be a noticeable thing to see? this is the only thing i have left to do is get the ball joint lined up!
any suggestions are very welcome!
thank you
ok, the driver's side was EASY very easy.
the passenger side is still giving me hell!
i cant get the strut assembly to go in at all, there is plenty of side to side movement but no inward movement. Is there a easy way to tell if the CV axle has come apart in the boot? i visually inspected both boots and they look fine, would it be a noticeable thing to see? this is the only thing i have left to do is get the ball joint lined up!
any suggestions are very welcome!
thank you
the passenger side is still giving me hell!
i cant get the strut assembly to go in at all, there is plenty of side to side movement but no inward movement. Is there a easy way to tell if the CV axle has come apart in the boot? i visually inspected both boots and they look fine, would it be a noticeable thing to see? this is the only thing i have left to do is get the ball joint lined up!
any suggestions are very welcome!
thank you
Just by your description though, it sounds like your axle is not in all the way
damn I'm good

Now just pray that it isnt clicking when you turn... they dont like to be hammered/knocked/slammed in
I popped the outer CV apart once.I had to cut the big clamp, take it apart and realign everything correctly to get it together. No way could I have done it with the boot on. They have replacement clamps but I used a worm gear dryer clamp. Its been fine for at least 5 years.
I popped the outer CV apart once.I had to cut the big clamp, take it apart and realign everything correctly to get it together. No way could I have done it with the boot on. They have replacement clamps but I used a worm gear dryer clamp. Its been fine for at least 5 years.
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