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Jack stand photographs

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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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j-dawg's Avatar
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Jack stand photographs

I know jacking points have been discussed to no end. After reading through many threads, I thought I'd had it figured out, lowered the '97 down and heard that sickening crackle sound, so I raised it back up. No damage that I can see, but I want to be absolutely certain before I go at it again. Does anyone have photos - like, not the diagram from the FSM, but actual photographs of a Max on jax - that clearly show where jack stands should be placed to do no damage to the underbody?

I did search as best as I was able, but I didn't find anything and I don't want to do any irreparable damage to my car. Any help would be appreciated.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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I don't have any photos, however, the best place for jackstands:
Front - At the suspension mounting point on the subframe assembly
Rear - inbound of the jacking point on the main frame section (near where the trailing link is attached.)
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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Here is a pic of my max jacked up before I replaced the axles. I thought the metal "lip" would be fragile, but it seemed to hold the weight just fine.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Also, I do share your concern...I used to have a Toyota Corolla, and I jacked it on the same points under the body as the max, and it bent the sheet metal...but I was also putting all the weight of the front end there, but when jacking the max, I used the front jacking point in the center of the car, and lowered it onto 2 jack stands, evenly distributing the weight
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:45 PM
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^ The one time my car was hoisted at a dealership, the master technician had it up on those points - but they're more suited for the 'cup' shape on a hoist or a jack, not so much for the shape of most jackstands IMO.
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bamboomerang
^ The one time my car was hoisted at a dealership, the master technician had it up on those points - but they're more suited for the 'cup' shape on a hoist or a jack, not so much for the shape of most jackstands IMO.
The FSM does recommend using a special adapter that has pads on either side and a groove in the middle for the metal lip...You can make an adapter like this using some metal for the base, and wood to straddle the lip, but I don't think it's neccesary. I didnt have any bent metal when I just dropped the car onto my standard jackstands (side note: Actually got the stands(rated for 3.5 tons), a 3.5 ton SUV jack, and really comfortable crawler for $30 at Home Depot 5 years ago, and they have been amazing ever since - HIGHLY recommended!)
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jgilbs
Here is a pic of my max jacked up before I replaced the axles. I thought the metal "lip" would be fragile, but it seemed to hold the weight just fine.<pic>
Thanks for the pic..so it basically goes right by the door sill? I was kinda hoping for an underbody shot up close, so I could see exactly where the head goes, but it seems like I was putting the stands farther under than I needed to.

I do use the crossmember jacking point to do the lifting, but since I needed to change my pads (they were down to the metal) I left the car on the jack and had the jack stands and the off tire under the car in case the jack let go. That said, if anyone can provide a closer photo for reference, I think I and future generations of n00bs would appreciate it.

Not that I don't appreciate the pic already posted Explains a whole lot of what I was doing wrong lol
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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I will grab you some pictures tomorrow if someone doesn't by then!

But be careful where you put your stands!! I've seen someone poke through their floor pan because they put the stands in the wrong place! But basically if you put your finger anywhere on the door kind of like poking it, and then go straight down until you see a little lip under the door that goes from the front to the back with little zig-zag pattern thing in a small section of the lip on the front and rear of the car.

That is where you put the stands, or at least that is what you are "technically" supposed to do haha
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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ignore the circle/arrow.
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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da God's Avatar
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lol i was lookin at the circle arrow for like 1 minute before i read what u wrote
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 12:27 AM
  #11  
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Yea its a good idea u started this thread cuz i did some really bad damage to my maxi wen i had it on these "safety points" and it fell in.... jus found out about 15 mins ago after spending roughly 1 hr replacing fr fender that the bottom dont line up right b/c of the damage... T_T

(replaced my fender cuz of a previous parking lot hit/run)
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:28 AM
  #12  
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Would anyone be able to post some photos of the underside, or maybe take some if they've got the car up anyway? I've just discovered that my driveway isn't perfectly flat, so if I drop it down it won't sit evenly until it's all the way on the jacks. I've seen the FSM diagram but I feel like it gives a pretty nebulous idea of where the stand is actually supposed to go.

Having the stands punch through the car sounds like a nightmare...
Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SiathLinux
I don't have any photos, however, the best place for jackstands:
Front - At the suspension mounting point on the subframe assembly
Rear - inbound of the jacking point on the main frame section (near where the trailing link is attached.)
Originally Posted by shadyonedeath


ignore the circle/arrow.
This diagram is the best information for the Jack Stand points - which is exactly the locations I explained above. There are other points that the stand can go (for example for the rear they can be placed on the beam on each side - assuming no suspension work being done)

Nissan recommends those points due to the design of the cars undercarriage - not placing them there can cause expensive damage.
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