Recently I found out why my check engine/engine service soon light was on.
I used a decoder I got these three codes:
3-4 Diagnosis: Knock Sensor
4-1 Diagnosis: Intake Air Temp. Sensor
10-5 Diagnosis: EGRC Solenoid Valve
I was disappointed when I found this out.
I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced/gotten this codes before? Does anyone think I should replace any of these???? and for how much? Does anyone think they might all be related?

Would any of these go bad/affect the car (97' Maxima SE manual) especially on a long trip?

Thank you all for your help and knowledgeable information

 

Also I'm planing on selling the car very soon, would it be smart to replace any of these for resale sakes?

 

Up to you ... sell the car as is for less $$$$ or, fix the problems and get more $$$$. Use the FSM and see why you are pulling those codes. KS will not throw a CEL fyi. I'd fix the issues (they shouldn't be difficult at all, or expensive) and get more out of the car. Not many people want to buy a car and have to sink money and time into it. In other words, it's gonna sell a lot easier if the CEL is not on.

 

NOt sure about others, but KS is about 15 minutes to replace. and costs abouts $50 There is a how-to with pictures on the forum and a video on youtube. Search for 4th gen maxima knock sensor (on youtube)

 

Knock sensor is a funny one. Sometimes other issues will trigger a KS code when its perfectly fine. Fix the others first and recheck. A bad KS itself will not trigger a light, however it will set a code, and cause loss of power and mileage. Check your connections before buying parts.

 

How many miles on the car?

Replace your knock sensor. I bought mine on ebay for about $16 shipped.

 

Replace all sensors and get the light off. Buyers get weary when they see the light on and think they may be buying problems..

 

Take a peek at http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html

It has a description of the codes and some simple solutions. The EGRC one looks a little tricky, try searching for solutions/diagnosis procedures for that. On the contrary, the IATS code looks fairly straight forward to diagnose. Finally, it will only take a few seconds to find out if the Knock Sensor is dead too. There is a how to somewhere around here, it involves only a multimeter.

Good luck.

 

Well thanks everyone for the help so far. I was also wondering if I replaced a certain one of these parts if the other problems would go away?

Apparently the KS won't set off the check engine light?

 

Correct, the KS sensor won't trip the CEL.

I actually just popped my first CEL last week (have had the car since 04) and that's when I found out my KS had gone bad.

Try and fix the problems to get the light off. Most likely they are nothing major and just require cleaning connections or replacing a part or two (hopefully cheaply).