2maxximum

I started my car rev engine to let my friend here my turbo blow off and then pulled off to go home. suddenly it sputterd and died on me I try to restart it and it would not start..... killing my starter towed it home took the intake manifold off and this is what I saw



I used a towel to get some of it out but should I just put it back together and start it or is thier something wrong with my injector

2maxximum

the fifth one was the only one flooded with fuel

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

if your cylinder is full of gas, the injector is prob bad as it is stuck open. test your injector first. Do'nt think soaking up the gas and putting back the manifold is gonna fix your problem.

testing your injector.

Using a stethoscope or a screwdriver pressed against the injector with your ear to the handle listen for a clicking sound. If it’s clicking, it’s working, but there is no way to tell how well.

You can confirm the injector is getting a signal with an injector test light (noid light). It plugs into the harness and flashes when operating correctly. Engine must be running for this test.

Finally you can test the injectors impedance with a multimeter. The impedance should be approximately 10-14 ohms between the terminals.

Hope that helps a little?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

What he said

2maxximum

thanks i will try to test it first thing in the morning. I'm really getting frustrated if it ant one thing its another. brake booster needs replacing too.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

With just one injector leaking fuel the engine should have started.
The leaky injector should be replaced, but that's not your problem.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

1 injector leaking bad enough will cause a hydro lock (cyl full of liquid) and will stop crank dead, can even bend a rod just trying to crank over.

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

did you check to see if you are getting any spark?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That wasn't what happened to him.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Were you there? Tell us what happened then.

I've personally seen this happen on a Toyota 22R. In this case the ECM shorted and held 2 injectors open.

I cant think of any other eason for only 1 cyl to be full of fuel.

2maxximum

I didnt check for spark, not yet but the injector is bad we checked the ohm and it read 1, I am worried about the hydro lock issue so when I get the new injector tomorrow I will remove the spark plug and try to get the motor unlocked.

2maxximum

as for the ECM what is done to check it?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Check injector harness for duty cycle. Any good DVOM should have the setting. 100% is bad. Could be the injector itself is jammed open with varnish or carbon.

Actually you could just key the ignition on with the intake off (just as in the pic above) and see the injector spraying with the motor off. If it sprays, unplug electrical from injector and try again to differentiate between injector and ECM.

My guess is that it will be the only injector constantly spraying.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Good on you, sounds like you found the answer. Before you plug in the new injector, Check the plug for volts and duty cycle, I don't know the specs But If you need someone can look in their own FSM. Ask around if you don't have a Field Service Manual or Factory Service Manual someone will PM a link I'm sure.

Good move pulling the spark plug and cranking it over. Make sure you don't have any open flames or sparks or

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Nope.

Perhaps you didn't read his opening post??

Let me sum it up for you. The engine was running, sputterd and died. He cranks it but it doesn't start.

There is no way in he11 you could possibly hydro lock a motor with the slight spray from an injector stuck open while the engine is spinning.

He's definately got a bad injector, but I don't think thats what caused his engine to sputter and die. It would have easily continued to run with a misfire on that cylinder.

My .02 cents, take it for what it's worth.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Easy the bank 1 o2 sensor saw hydrocarbons off the scale due to cyl #1 being rediculously rich. this caused the ECM to kill the other two injectors. between the time the motor stalled and OP turned the ignition off the cylinder was topping off with fuel.

He didnt say he cranked it, and it didnt start.

He said; "I try to restart it and it would not start..... killing my starter"
I take this to mean at may have turned 1 revoltion, if that, and came to a stop "killing the starter".

If you have a better diagnosis and troubleshooting plan than offer it up. other wise stop spamming.

This is not a personal attack ar anything but I think you should stick to threads you can contribute to other than disputing others posts with no alternative explanantion. just my .02.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

calm down here buddy


and there is no way the ecu would know to kill 2 injectors, it doesnt work that way, it only controls the banks.

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

hym....somehow my sig picture is gone.....

but

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

here is how i see things. You can be the best mechanic out there, but there are always things that happens to cars in which makes you learn. Input from personal experiences has helped many to solve problems. It also has caused people to do a lot of work that was not needed. We all know his injector is bad, could of, would of, can happen doesn't matter. I can give you 800 different scenarios that can happen to a car or engine, but not likely. However, just because its not likely doesn't mean it won't or didn't happen. He could of hydro locked the engine, he could of just simply killed the starter. I saw my friend pour a 3 lb bag of sugar into the gas tank (trying to kill his car for dumb reason), and his car worked fine. In statistics, a probability of 0 does not mean it cannot happen, it just simply means the chances of it happening is almost slim to none. We're all just trying to get the op's car back and running. think we should leave it at that

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I didn't really mean it killed them, just that it attempted to lean out the right bank until the motor stalled out.

2maxximum

changed injector witch caused me 15 bucks. crank the car it started and ran like crap before it died...crank engine again and it wouldnt start and hydro locked agian..soooo im pissed right now...removed plug and cranked the motor.. tuns of fuel was pushed out of the same cylinder kept cranking and the fuel kept coming tuns of it. my car and me smell like a gass station quit cranking the motor and dried up the fuel with two bath towells. man im pissed. i need help with this

2maxximum

be fore all this happen I just replaced my mass air flow sensor the night before. I ordered one from A 94 300Z. could this have anything to do with my fuel injecture issues.

2maxximum

thanks for the info I will try it first thing in the morning.....

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You have to figure out if the ECU is telling the injector to spray the gas or whether you got a bad injector (to replace a bad injector). $15 for an injector is awful cheap, I personally would be afraid of it. Whatever. What you could try is diconnecting the wire to the injector and crank the engine. Gas with no wire means bad injector. If no gas, try to plug a wire from another injector on the problem one, I don't know if you can do that. If you can, crank the enfine and see if the gas is little spurts or not.

2maxximum

thanks .... you guys rock when it comes to helping a brother out....I have my work cut out first thing in the morning.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Good luck bro.
If the "new" injector is doing the same I'm leaning towards bad ECM. Pull the upper manifold (plenum) and visually check with ign on, eng off, and again with injector unplugged.Thats gonna be the easiest way to confirm with out a node light. I believe you have to pull the plenum any way to acces the injector (It is the rear isn't it?). Wow just realized its 2:00AM your time. later.

If you could video and post any findings that would be nice.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

get rid of this, you cannot use a z32 maf w/o the proper tuning. are you sure it is a z32 maf? if it was, you would have to swap over the connector as well.


are you sure your 15dollar injector is good? it is VERY rare for our ecu's to fail

2maxximum

its a z32, man im leaning more to the maf because it was a rebuild from the part store. my turbo max was running good before the last one went bad.

2maxximum

OK.. this is what I've came up with after doing what U told to do to check my injector.... I checked the ohms again and it was 11.4 thats good check.
then I turn key nothing happen so I cranked to get the rest of the fuel out of the piston chamber check
to my surprise after a few cranks the motor started up and ran a few sec.
oh the injector was not plugged in check
I cranked again off and on to see if any fuel would be pushed out and sure nuff by the 4th or 5th crank fuel filled and was pushed out. but I also notice that the fuel pump presure gauge hit 90 to 100 thats bad im guessing and maybe thats why that injector had fuel pooring from it with out being connected. the rubber O-ring cant handle the pressure or injector cant handle the pressure it might be the weakest one out of the bunch. what do you guys think....

asand1

iTrader: (1)

FSM calls for 34psi at Idle, and 43psi priming after key on. Ive tested pumps by clamping down on the return line and seen 80-90psi. Never tried this on maxima though. So did it Hydro-lock again with the injector unplugged? If I'm understanding this correctly, you either have a blocked return line, or you have a bad regulator.

My recommendations are;
-Replace injector o-ring
-Disconnect fuel return line from sending unit (under rear seat) and from regulator and blow the line out from the sending unit end.
-Replace pressure regulator (check vacuum lines for any breaks or holes first)
-Reassemble and test.

Does anyone else have any thoughts?

2maxximum

I put 2 rubber O rings on the injector put every thing back together started it up and it ran. but like crap....
Im guessing cause the fuel pressure is 100psi trouble shooting it but i turn the motor of after a minute of running. Question can the maf flow sensor effect how fuel is regulated causing it to do this.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The fuel injector may still be leaking, but just not as much. The fuel pressure reading is rather high. There is a fuel pressure regulator that is located on the end of the fuel rail right under the throttle valve cam where the gas pedal cable attaches to. According to the FSM, as you increase manifold vacuum to the regulator valve, it restricts fuel coming out of the regulator valve. I could not find any info as to the pressure it regulates at. The 90+ pounds of fuel pressure that 2maxximum measured was no doubt before the regulator as the regulator bolts onto the fuel rail.
.
As asand1 stated, the fuel pressure should be a max of 43 pounds. There is a fuel pump control module (FPCM) that regulates the voltage going to the fuel pump. By not running the pump at full voltage, the pressure is regulated. I think I read that the only time you have 12 volts going to the fuel pump is the 30 seconds after you turm on the ignition key and before the engine starts. If the FPCM is having a problem, you would supposedly get a code P1220. I would assume this would cause a CEL, but we know that not all codes give you a CEL. The FSM starting on page EC-283 gives voltages and diagnostics.
.
This is a tough problem.

2maxximum

thanks man for the info I will be hitting the part store first thing in the morning to get a new regulator. you guys been very helpful with my pain in the rump maxima. thanks

2maxximum

nope still flooding and i put in a new fuel regulator, worked for a lil bit then max out again causing the motor to flood.... next is fuel pump... check the regulator on it.....

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

You can go that rute yes..but if that still doesn't resolve the problem, you will have to do what asand1 recoomends with disconnecting the return line from the sending unit and blow the line out with an air compressor.