Question on 5spd swap tranny harness rewire to clutch
08-13-2010, 03:13 PM
#1
Question on 5spd swap tranny harness rewire to clutch
I am in a state of confusion at the moment. 
im in the process of gathering parts for a auto-5spd swap. I've already pulled the clutch pedal with both switches attached (post pics soon) , now im pulling out the tranny wire harness from the donor car and need help on how to rewire the harness. I've read and read and read HLH0501
until I can recite each and every step in my sleep, excellent write up...but the part that baffles me the most is the bypassing of the PN switch... (will speak more on that later, depending how the reply count for this thread goes).
but for now my questions are:
1. Do the 5spd harness and Auto harness wire up the same?
2. How will i know which wire is what and which switch on the pedal to rewire it to.
Thanks in advance for all replys
-Wince
im in the process of gathering parts for a auto-5spd swap. I've already pulled the clutch pedal with both switches attached (post pics soon) , now im pulling out the tranny wire harness from the donor car and need help on how to rewire the harness. I've read and read and read HLH0501 until I can recite each and every step in my sleep, excellent write up...but the part that baffles me the most is the bypassing of the PN switch... (will speak more on that later, depending how the reply count for this thread goes).
but for now my questions are:
1. Do the 5spd harness and Auto harness wire up the same?
2. How will i know which wire is what and which switch on the pedal to rewire it to.
Thanks in advance for all replys
-Wince
08-13-2010, 03:20 PM
#2
The switch on the front of the clutch pedal should be wired to to the cruise switch on the brake pedal.
The switch on the back of the clutch pedal is for the starting of the car. It doesn't matter what pin of the switch goes where.
The switch on the back of the clutch pedal is for the starting of the car. It doesn't matter what pin of the switch goes where.
08-13-2010, 03:42 PM
#3
lol Kevlo never fails!!!
say i wanted to strt the car with the clutch engaged. how would the wiring be different frm HLH0501's??
"Add-on to the instructions:
In step 1.5, it says to connect two wires on the tranny harness. You instead, need to run a wire from both of the tranny wires, to the clutch pedal switch (small switch that is engaged when you push the clutch all the way down). This will let your car know when it is "Neutral (since it thinks it is an automatic)".. your reason for doing this, is so that 1. You cant start the car without the clutch(safety)... and #2, SO CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK"
08-13-2010, 03:44 PM
#4
well if you wanted to start the car in neutral with out pushing the clutch in, just connect the two wires like the first sentence says, I would only do this to test. I would not leave the car like that just incase you forget you are in gear one day.
08-13-2010, 04:00 PM
#6
It is the only connector with 2 wires on it coming from the tranny. I really dont remember, it's been a few years since I did the swap.
FSM should tell you what color wires it is
FSM should tell you what color wires it is
08-19-2010, 06:54 AM
#9
I just finished my five speed conversion. Do not just connect the wires going to the P/N inhibitor to get your car to start, your cruise will not work because the car will think it's in Park or Neutral the entire time. Ask me how I know.
Run the Green/Orange wire back into the cabin using one of the unused wires on the old inhibitor harness (one of the ones for D, 2, or 1). You can find the other end of the wire in the ACU connector, under the BCM directly in front of the shifter. The connector looks just like the ECU connector, with a bolt securing it. Cut the wire that you used from this connector, and attach an extension on it so that it makes it to the clutch inhibitor switch on the clutch pedal (fully depressed switch). Wire the extension to one end of the switch, and tie the other end to ground. Voilà!
I see that a writeup might be necessary to make the wiring fool-proof for the five speed swap. The information on the org is piecemeal at best. Additional topics that need addressed are reverse light wiring, neutral switch wiring, and ASCD clutch swtich wiring. There is no reason why you can't do a five speed swap, and have your electrical system remain functionally stock, with no CEL (granted you have a 5 spd. ECU).
Run the Green/Orange wire back into the cabin using one of the unused wires on the old inhibitor harness (one of the ones for D, 2, or 1). You can find the other end of the wire in the ACU connector, under the BCM directly in front of the shifter. The connector looks just like the ECU connector, with a bolt securing it. Cut the wire that you used from this connector, and attach an extension on it so that it makes it to the clutch inhibitor switch on the clutch pedal (fully depressed switch). Wire the extension to one end of the switch, and tie the other end to ground. Voilà!
I see that a writeup might be necessary to make the wiring fool-proof for the five speed swap. The information on the org is piecemeal at best. Additional topics that need addressed are reverse light wiring, neutral switch wiring, and ASCD clutch swtich wiring. There is no reason why you can't do a five speed swap, and have your electrical system remain functionally stock, with no CEL (granted you have a 5 spd. ECU).
08-19-2010, 11:30 AM
#12
I have to fix my wiring tonight, actually. I wired the inhibitor circuit directly to ground to get the car running, but, as I said above, now my cruise does not work. I am going to document all of the wiring to make this as easy as possible.
08-23-2010, 10:26 PM
#14
Looks like your question has been answered already, but an idea to consider:
I wired my inhibitor circuit a little differently. I wanted the ability to start my car when the clutch was in and/or the trans was in neutral, but not when neither condition was met. This would allow a lot more flexibility in starting the car. I first connected the neutral wires from the position switch on the trans to the correct wires going to the ECU for the inhibitor circuit, allowing the car to only start in neutral. I then ran the wires from the clutch switch into the engine bay and soldered them in parallel with the circuit I just created.
I wired my inhibitor circuit a little differently. I wanted the ability to start my car when the clutch was in and/or the trans was in neutral, but not when neither condition was met. This would allow a lot more flexibility in starting the car. I first connected the neutral wires from the position switch on the trans to the correct wires going to the ECU for the inhibitor circuit, allowing the car to only start in neutral. I then ran the wires from the clutch switch into the engine bay and soldered them in parallel with the circuit I just created.
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