Im curious what kind of gas milage you would get running only on three fuel injectors... Lol it would be like a 1.5L 3 cylinder... Like a smart car!

 

clogged injector??? i wd have tried a bottle of chevron first rather than jus change em out.

U guys check TPS?

 

I got 278~ on a full tank of V-Power... eek

 

Did not try the TPS. Well there is only 2 possible clogged injectors because i replaced 4...

 

At this point, only thing I am aware of left to check IS the TPS... any suggestions? Cant say I've ever had one go bad so I'm not sure what to do as far as that goes.

 

bump, anyone ever have this problem or know what could be causing it??

 

How does it idle? When was the last time tune up was performed? Sounds ignition to me. I bet it's either plug wires/coil/ignition module (if applicable, not sure, new Maxima owner).

Had this problem on my Integra, turned out to be a bad coil.

 

No plug wires on Maxima or ignition module that I know of..

everything else was listed earlier in the thread.

Basically everything that you mentioned was my first guess but after swapping my good parts onto his max, the problem continued. Tuneup is recent.

thanks for trying

 

If the 3 injectors were clogged and one was broken, there's a good chance the remaining two have at least partial blockage. I'm not sure how severe your loss of power is at this point, but that could explain it.

Edit: You might also want to revisit the ECTS. I saw you cleaned/sanded it, but that won't do any good if it's actually bad internally. I'm thinking this might be the issue because you mentioned timing advance was 15 degrees at idle. My healthy Max has 5 degrees timing advance at warm idle per OBD scanner. I didn't check cold idle, but I think that's 15 degrees. This also might explain why the car runs worse after it warms up. Keep an eye on your temp gauge. If it starts climbing above the middle, hit the a/c to turn on the fans. Use that OBD scanner if it's still available and see what the ECU thinks the water temperature is. If it's way off, you've found your problem.

 

Any of you even thought about swapping the ECU...hmmm?

 

The timing at idel jumps between 11 and 15 .... my o2 sensor says rich and the other says lean...... i need some ideas... my gas mileage is bad.

I did think of swapping ecu.... i need a 95 ecu with no governor on it =D

 

Just swap something in...I think your ECU farted. If the brain went crazy the body must follow, huh?

 

hmm come to think about it, I have always dreaded hooking up the OBDII port to his shizz cuz there just all these add-on wires in front of it that make it a pain in the ***, I dont even know wtf they are for...

 

those are just power wires for the neon light...

 

My 95 Maxima is doing the same thing, but its intermittan. If I turn it off for ~5 min it will run fine for a while. I drove 30 miles doing this last week to get home.

 

im having a few of the same issues i get 270-280 a tank on vpower also sometiems even less and i have some rough idle issues it sticks at over 1k rpms sometimes and after WOT runs it stumbles and acts like its going to stall then shoots up to over 1k rpms again then slowly comes back down

so far i need a new clutch (thinking about the 5th gen pressure plate upgrade), rear main seal (leaking oil onto clutch) and front VC gasket anyone whant to help add to the parts list haha

also awhile back i have had the engine light come on showing bad knock sensor and bad ot sensor before cat this happened twice once on non premium gass (didnt know i had to run high octain) and the second time showd high voltage on the same 02 sensor but hte light is off now and the car is running well except for the idle issues

EDIT: Im driving a 99 SE 5spd with 236k on it

 

I don't think its any of the items you mentioned. the clutch is realtively new and the engine light has been going on & off for 15 years. I got tired of paying the dealer $300 for new sensors ever year or so (note: it has never failed emmisions).

also, when it's running bad it's really bad. it just stops. otherwise it runs like new, which is pretty amazing since it has 320K on the engine. I'm thinking it may be electrical (eg. plug coils) since its intermittan and appears to be only when its hot. I do have a bad tranny leak, which could be causing something that I don't understand.
Thx

 

check ur maf sensor connection bout a year ago mine was stallin and running rough chased all sorts of things before i found that the connector was bad also if u just had a clutch job done the tranny engine matting surface may not have been cleaned right and u may need to add a extra ground wire from negative battery post to tranny

the bad maf connector didnt throw a code for maf either

 

Seeing that tyou guys have tried everything already have you guys done a compression or leak down test? Maybe ots lagging that much due to something wrong with the actual motor, just a thought n it won't cost to test if you have the tools