HobHayward

So the alternator on my 95 max se died at the beginning of june. Had the local shop install a new one.

Two days ago I was getting on the highway, there is no entrance ramp and lots of traffic, so I redlined it in first, then in second. Somewhere in that period of time the battery light and the e-brake light came on. Didn't have time to figure out what the issue was so I ended up driving it until last night when everything electrical started to stop working right as I got it home.

The battery today reads ~11.3v with the car off, and ~10.85v with the car on (still enough juice to start the engine it seems). I've checked continuity from the alternator's positive to the battery positive and that's fine. Same with alternator chassis to battery negative.

I would say ok old car, alternator must have died, but it was just replaced in june, so that doesn't seem likely? Other weird thing is the e-brake light... its always on, but only halfway. If you pull the e-brake its at least twice as bright as it is with the e-brake off.

My only thoughts are that the alternator didn't like getting thrown to 6500rpm, or that something jolted when I dropped the clutch going into second..

Is there is a good way to check the alternator and make sure that its not some other electrical problem?

Any advice is most appreciated,

Thanks!

HobHayward

Oh and it's not throwing any codes other than rear 02, which has been a longstanding problem that I've been told not to bother fixing. Reset the ECU via obd2 which didn't change anything.

najee1062

Man I brought my 99 GLE 2 years ago and I've put 5 alternators in so far. the third one did last a year but the other 4 only lasted a few days. But that third one did have bad brushes and I didn't know it until they were really bad and loud.

My mechanic did nothing to find out why I was burning out alternators, all he wanted was cash for installing new ones. **** me off finding out later that I had bad grounds

I was so frustrated with this and considered selling the car.... Until coming back to the org out of desperation and searching for a problem I found hope. First thing I did was fire every mechanic that worked on my car and started doing everything myself.

I brought the fifth and I installed it. But first I clean my battery terminals, than my ground from the battery to the chassis and over to the trans. I clean the ground at the Alternator. Inspected all wiring for fray, crack and worn. clean every connection as I went along. One important thing is to have both terminal disconnected from the battery, they say only the negative but I did both and clean every connection attached to your engine block, your trans and your chassis... those would be grounds.

Install your alternator but before connecting it make sure your battery is fully charged then connected the ground wire to the alternator first then the wire harness and then connect battery.

Check your voltage with car off first.

HobHayward

I thought continuity might be an issue, especially with the obscene amount of rust in my engine bay (190k miles in the northeast has a tendency to do that). However the original alternator afaik lasted for the entire life of the car.

Is there any way to check the alt in there right now? If I pull it out is there a way to confirm it's dead, or is that just a given based on it not putting any voltage out?

Thanks

mateusz1945

iTrader: (1)

you can try check it directly: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-directly.html
if it gives you good measurement in this point alt should be good.
check if belt is sleeping too.
i just replace alt yesterday in 98 se, fact it could fail in few months scare me!

HobHayward

Yeah I saw that post actually, I tried measuring the same way as in that post but the values I got were the same as the battery voltage (aka, very low).

I'm thinking it must be some other electrical issue due to the e-brake light halfway coming on at the same time. I know there are other wires going into the alt, do those come from the ECU, and tell the alternator how much to engage or something? What would a sleeping belt be? Is that when the belt isn't moving because the car doesn't think theres a need for the alt to be engaged? (Pardon my lack of general car knowledge)

Fast1one

iTrader: (12)

The brake light coming on indicates a low voltage alarm and is your car telling you that there is something wrong with the charging system. What kind of alternator did you install the first time? Autozone alternators, for example, are complete crap and only lasted me 7 months before I had to replace mine. Ensure that all your grounds and wiring are clean before installing another, quality alternator.

Your alternator is always on BTW. The battery is there for starting and accessories. The alternator runs the show when the car is on.

mateusz1945

iTrader: (1)

sorry i meant that belt can slip not "sleep" i would check belt tension just in case, there is nice clip on YT how to change belt, and i agree with post above,

damm i changed to autozone alt, hope that someone was just out of luck that it broke so fast...

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

i had to change my alt and batt from autozone 4 times this alt and batt are going on like 7 months so far but lucky they have warrnty

Fast1one

iTrader: (12)

It's pretty well known that "stock replacement" parts from autozone with a lifetime warranty fail prematurely.
That's nice and all, but changing an alternator is a pain in the ***. Doesn't really take that long, but its time that I don't readily have during the weekdays when I use my car often.

najee1062

Those crappy alternators warranties don't help you when you're stuck on the side of the road in another state.... I had 6 replace within a 18 months time frame and that warranty sucked for me when I had to still pay someone to put it in.

I will never go reman on an alternator again... and I believe that 4th gens are having a grounding issue and we are not aware... Once I went over my main grounds my car has ran better than when I first brought her and also could be why the first alternator went in the first place. Out of all 15 cars I've had I've never had alternators replace. My 87 toyota camry with 340k miles had it's original alternator. My 99 GLE has had 6 and to many of us on the org are having the same problems with alternators and electrical items.

mateusz1945

iTrader: (1)

that's making sense... i dont beleive alternators are that crappy, i'd better check my groundings too.

Goomz

iTrader: (1)

i get my alternaters, starters, axles, etc from a wholesale distributor who remanufactures these and more parts and sells to the public for a slightly discounted price! i've replaced the original (which was a 4th gen recall anyway) at nissan for free!

cashoit

Autozone stuff is pretty decent. If you been through that many alternators, then i wd say to check you grounds and replace battery and alternator cables. shouldnt have to replace a alternator in 3 months.

Good grounding on the 4th gen is essential

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

The alternators don't have any problems on these cars. What usually kills the OEM alternator is the oil from the front valve cover when leaking in left corner (this is how mine died). When I did it myself, found that the screw in that corner for the valve cover was stripped so I had to place a bigger bolt and bought back an OEM alternator for less than AZ price at dealer. Running great now...and no more leak. If you all have that leak, get it fixed and don't think it can't get to your alternator...it does..

cdmapro

OP - your aftermarket alternator is crap. replace it with an OEM part. this happens often. i went through the same thing last fall with 2 alternators and 3 batteries (pep boys) and finally had to put a real Nissan alternator on and all has been fine ever since. I think the regulators on the aftermarket remans are not adequately protected for EMI and they blow easily. I think OEM Nissan remans have better electronics that can tolerate voltage spikes, etc.

cashoit

www.courtesyparts.com ftw

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

it takes like 10 min to change the alt its so easy i dont even care if it goes out lol

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

i have all 0 gaug grounds buddy there **** just sucks lol

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

i wouldnt pay any 1 to put the alt in it only takes like 10 min and if its your frist time like 30 min dont waste your mone yto pay some 1 its so easy my mom with no arms can install the alt lol

mateusz1945

iTrader: (1)

i think every member would appreciate if you make video " 10 min alt replacing" we can sticky it. Can you do it?

99MAXPIMP

iTrader: (2)

YEA IF U COME AND VIDEO IT FOR ME

najee1062

Well at first that was the only way for me... But now I don't have to... What about the other that don't know how or have the means. should they suffer...

yea me too...
It's has to be something we're over looking that cause some many ppl with the same problem...

Good grounding is essential with any vehicle.... Good this be a problem with 4th gen that have not be notice or are the ppl having alternator problems just buying bad alternators... But that what I did this time and she running 100% better... Better than any of the other alternator installs. Something is questionable here....

najee1062

That's how yours died... what about mine I don't have any oil leaking anywhere so how did my original and 5 others die?

najee1062

yes, I believe that one....

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Like you said good grounds are needed for any car. You may have a short circuit somehwere that is killing these alternators. Get a multimeter and start checking these lines per FSM.

najee1062

I did just that with a multimeter and cleaned a lot of them which gave me a better performing car at this point. As I get into more I'll check more until I've cleaned up all wire connection while water protecting them with that wire silicone stuff for future engine cleans

Remminator

iTrader: (1)

I would say the shop installed the cheapest f*cking POS alternator and the voltage regulator burned out that cheap chinese circuitry. By the way your battery is likely toast after you used it to run your engine to get home. The voltage will not give you an accurate reading of the cranking amps, for that you will need to get the battery load tested.

Here's an easy test:

Start the car with jump or booster pack. Remove positive lead from battery. Unlikely car will still be running at this point, however it's possible. Take your multimeter check voltage between positive lead and ground. Shoul be around 14V. Reason alternator is 14v and not 12 is to keep the battery at a positive chargining rate.

You can also pull the alternator and have it tested at any cheap autozone, advance etc. I've learned my lesson over the years with cheap alternators.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

This is scary. I just replaced my alt. from Autozone. I have the grounding kit, but I'm thinking what if its better to replace the positive and negative cables. Car is just old and close to 200k miles.

Also, changing an alt. is not that bad but still a PIA when you have better things to do.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Its up to you. I replaced mine last year with OEM for a little over $100 for both. Only thing was that he gave me the negative cable from an 01 Max so it has three grounding points on the line instead of the two that's in ours right now.

97 4thgen

hey im new looking for posts but im having the same issues but my lights shut off when i rev over 3500 depending on how charged the battery is all the way up to 3900ish im thinking its the alternator but my cel isnt coming on

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Your CEL light will not come on for an alternator. The brake and battery light is to inform you that your alternator is on its way out. Get it replaced ASAP or you will be stranded somewhere you don't want to be.