if so where can i find it? i was told i could cut a little hole to help keep the temp down a bit...

 

bad idea dude. we do have a t-stat but i believe its incorporated in the t-stat housing itself and must be replaced as one unit. if you really want to lower the coolant temp buy water wetter IT WORKS and you can find it at any local auto parts store.

 

Replace with a t stat from a 350z. Look it up, iv read about it.

 

350Z thermostats do open at a lower temperature..

 

cut a hole in it?
it's kinda hard to believe that is a serious suggestion.
reconsider your sources dude.

 

I've been looking for one on the z forums. My spec v they told me cut a small whole in my therstat to HP with my temps. Mybtemp constantly stay at 230 moving or not. On a cold day I may see 120. I do have water wetter. Ajust bought a mitsi radi...I hope that bros. I have two two push 12' fans. I can put a pull cause ill melt quickly.(vq swap Sentra)

 

The real question is why are his temps rising in the first place?

 

I think this is why.
I wonder if the Sentra radiator is large enough to cool the VQ? I think he needs to address the root cause of his cooling issues.

 

I highly doubt it.

 

Ah... missed that, thanks njmaxseltd.
Im sure thats the issue.

 

most swaped sentras dont complain about going over 200 unless they have ac on and heavy traffic...

prolly could be cause the turbo is about 6' away fromthe radi.

im heat wrappign everything possible today and see if that helps

 

some of the vq swapped sentras, told me i could drill a small hole to help lower the temos a bit...

 

Again, this is not true and will not help you with your cooling issue.
The thermostat is wide open over 180F. If your cooling system is running hotter then that, you need to address the cause of inadequate cooling.

Hint - Look at your radiator...

FWIW - There is a small hole in the top of the t-stat and it's there to allow a small about of fluid to flow during warm up and also helps to bleed any air out of the cooling system after it's been drained.

 

could you take a picture of it and show me? I have no idea where its at...

 

Its the thing with the big hose on it. Right next to your alternator and connected to your radiator.

 

Okay, so you have a VQ swapped Sentra on boost. How many pounds are you running, and are you on stock injectors, fuel pressure, etc? Could be that you are running lean. Also a VQ swap into a Sentra should have a bigger radiator, and even more so if it is boosted. Another thing that you may want to think about is changing the heat range of your spark plugs.

 

can't you just buy one from a local auto parts store w/the temp you want? usually there's ranges.

 

Bottom line is it is a boosted vq30, the stock radiator is basically at it's limit when it is boosted. I run water wetter. So like others said it definitely is the radiator. If you can't put a larger one in there at least run the water wetter and a lower opening t-stat.

 

I dont claim to know much about anything typically, and I certainly dont want to offend the op but I'm a little taken back by the fact he's working on his own boosted, vq swapped sentra and he cant identify a thermostat?

On a more productive note, you might consider flushing your cooling system, replacing the water pump if it's at all suspect, possibly look into an electric water pump and make sure your new mitsu radiator is the biggest sucker that'll fit in there, sounds like you've got the fan setup already. Best of luck, that has to be one amazing little scoot.....

 

..........................

 

No one has mentioned ducting air to the radiator. Size doesn't matter if the air can go around it. Make sure that the incoming air HAS to go through the radiator if you haven't already.

 

Can we get some pics of unda the hood, the car, whatever you got so we can see what your dealing with?.

 

also make sure the fan is running in the right direction. if not i would not be surprised if that would be the overheating issue as well.

 

im sorry to jack a thread but i cant create one yet.
i have a problem with my cars temp gauge needle rising up to the H when at idle for more than 2-4 minutes. At idle only, the temp will slowly go up and when i accel it shoots up to the top then right back down to the middle where it started when im moving. If i sit for a while at idle the temp gauge goes up to the top H and then the car hesitates and crawls horribly. but i'll turn it off then back on and the car is back to normal minus the gauge still reads high until i start driving then back to the middle. i have yet to take the engines temp but it doesn't seem noticeably hotter to the touch. all levels are good. rad cap seems fine. and the temp doesnt rise when im gunning it redlining on the street/freeway. only after a few minutes at idle. oh and at idle (not moving) if i rev the engine up high and keep it there the temp gauge will drop back to the middle weird

this started yesterday Sat.

Friday i cleaned the TB, MAF, IACV, EGR and seafoamed it.
i reset idle and ecu, I dont hear any vacuum leaks and double checked all gaskets and bolts.
the car is amazingly different when driving now. 1st gear is much more responsive and high end is back to how i remember it should be. all is great except this
The only mod i have is a K&N cone on a MAF adapter, the rest stock. no snorkel

i need help

 

exactly. this guy has no clue which end is up. drill a hole in your thermostat... good god.

 

your problem sounds like a combination of a bad engine coolant temp sensor (or the connection to it being bad, I have had this happen to me and it can make the car undriveable or even prevent you from being able to start it) and a bad temp gauge sensor (or the gauge itself) and perhaps radiator fans that aren't working properly. check the connection to both of them first (i had a wire break on mine just from being old and brittle) and then if the connections are good check the output of the sensors themselves per the factory service manual.

the ECTS and the sensor that runs dashboard coolant temp gauge are separate, and have nothing to do with each other. the temp gauge sensor ONLY runs the temp gauge on your dash, and has nothing to do with the operation of the car. the ECTS on the other had has tons to do with the operation of the car, but has nothing to do with how the gauge on your dash reads.

also check to make sure your radiator fans are coming on.

 

Thanks for a reply this is worrying me
the fans work and both are on just about all the time. the coolant level is good so it might be the sensor then? but why would my dash needle act like that? could i have messed up a hose or something doing the maintenance?

thanks for any help everyone. i hope to get this solved and start making my own threads