4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.
View Poll Results: What should I do first?
HID Retros
1
1.92%
Lower It
32
61.54%
Navigation
1
1.92%
00VI
15
28.85%
New Wheels
3
5.77%
Voters: 52. You may not vote on this poll

What "real" mods first?

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Old 11-17-2010, 03:30 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by mista0406
I would say if your going performance:
--MEVI(easier to install than a 00vi less problems if your not that mechanically inclined)
--Cattman y and 3" exhaust if your thinking F/I in the long run ( always be prepared so you don't spend $$$ on more than one exhaust) I'm learning the hard way.
--Keep your headers for F/I
--Then you can do all the visual drop, rims, tint, body kit, etc.
--Then Forced Induction FTW!!!!
Would the cattman 3" exhaust be too much for our cars in stock form until f/i?
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ride2wheels
Would the cattman 3" exhaust be too much for our cars in stock form until f/i?
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:02 PM
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What is the best "bang for the buck" box for tuning an 00VI setup? Prefer something that will grow with me...
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:25 PM
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Here's some info on tuning and tuning devices. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ng-thread.html

All in all it depends if you just want a simple afr tune or if you really want to wake it up with advanced timing and extended rev limiter.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
What is the best "bang for the buck" box for tuning an 00VI setup? Prefer something that will grow with me...
Originally Posted by schmellyfart
Here's some info on tuning and tuning devices. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ng-thread.html

All in all it depends if you just want a simple afr tune or if you really want to wake it up with advanced timing and extended rev limiter.
Looks like I came in at the right time

As far as tuning is concerned, the most cost-efficient option is piggybacking the ECU, and intercepting the desired signals to tune the car to your liking.

A'pexi SAFC2/SAFC Neo/VAFC - Tunes AFR by adjusting airflow signal (may cause timing changes due to that), SAFC2 & Neo allow rescaling for larger MAF housings.
GReddy e-Manage Blue - Tunes AFR using direct injector signal (no timing changes), raises rev limit, allow rescaling for larger MAF housings as well.
GReddy e-Manage Ultimate - All the capabilities of the Blue as well as launch control, and ignition timing (big plus for getting the most out of boosted/more heavy all motor setups).

Shoot me a PM if you're interested in an SAFC2 or e-Blue.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:45 PM
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@ schmellyfart - Thanks for the link - that's an awesome read!

@ MoncefA33 - thanks for posting the thread that schmellyfart linked to.

So the EB doesn't control ignition timing? I thought I read that it did. So for a starter piggyback to keep cost under control, a SAFC2 or eBlue would be a good place to start?

Last edited by Cebby; 11-17-2010 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
@ schmellyfart - Thanks for the link - that's an awesome read!

@ MoncefA33 - thanks for posting the thread that schmellyfart linked to.

So the EB doesn't control ignition timing? I thought I read that it did. So for a starter piggyback to keep cost under control, a SAFC2 or eBlue would be a good place to start?
Shoot Knight_yyz a PM regarding the timing setup on the Blue. Since it doesn't have an ignition harness like the Ultimate does, the only way it will advance timing is by changing the values on the Airflow map.

Yes. I'd recommend the eBlue if you plan on boosting the car eventually.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:24 PM
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I would say drop it as well. My 99 has a Tokico/Illumina kit and it looks pretty good sitting on G35 17s.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
My understanding of the JWT is that it's a reprogrammed oem ECU with no adjustment in it - is that correct? Could I (should I) use a piggyback (e-manage blue, or similar) to have flexibility to modify the profile as the engine mods change over time?

Thank you for the list of mods and HP gains - that helps!
Correct. The JWT ECU is for the guy that wants the "set it and forget it" approach, has no knowledge or no interest in tuning his Max himself. If you forsee your Maxima evolving over time, then yes, go for the Emanage Blue (EB) or the the Emanage Ultimate (EU). If you're going to keep this simple and sweet, the JWT ECU is a good option.

Originally Posted by mista0406
I would say if your going performance:
--MEVI(easier to install than a 00vi less problems if your not that mechanically inclined)
--Cattman y and 3" exhaust if your thinking F/I in the long run ( always be prepared so you don't spend $$$ on more than one exhaust) I'm learning the hard way.
--Keep your headers for F/I
--Then you can do all the visual drop, rims, tint, body kit, etc.
--Then Forced Induction FTW!!!!
Good advice here.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ride2wheels
Would the cattman 3" exhaust be too much for our cars in stock form until f/i?
I don't think so. I'm rocking Cattman's 3" catback on my NA 98 Max and feel gains throughout the entire band.
Originally Posted by Cebby
What is the best "bang for the buck" box for tuning an 00VI setup? Prefer something that will grow with me...
Depends on what you want to do ultimately. You may have no choice but to skip the EB and go right for the EU.
Originally Posted by MoncefA33
Looks like I came in at the right time

As far as tuning is concerned, the most cost-efficient option is piggybacking the ECU, and intercepting the desired signals to tune the car to your liking.

A'pexi SAFC2/SAFC Neo/VAFC - Tunes AFR by adjusting airflow signal (may cause timing changes due to that), SAFC2 & Neo allow rescaling for larger MAF housings.
GReddy e-Manage Blue - Tunes AFR using direct injector signal (no timing changes), raises rev limit, allow rescaling for larger MAF housings as well.
GReddy e-Manage Ultimate - All the capabilities of the Blue as well as launch control, and ignition timing (big plus for getting the most out of boosted/more heavy all motor setups).
Good info too.
Don't forget the tuning sticky in the All Motor forum....here.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
I don't think so. I'm rocking Cattman's 3" catback on my NA 98 Max and feel gains throughout the entire band.
What is the stock piping? 2.5 or 2.25? Is the Cattman Mandrel Bent? I guess more importantly, what is the dia. of the cat? That's got to be the bottleneck...
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Depends on what you want to do ultimately. You may have no choice but to skip the EB and go right for the EU.
In the interest of keeping some of this project budget under control, I'll go EB for now. It appears that I would just need an optional ignition harness to control timing.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:28 AM
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As of this AM, here's how the voting stands:

Leading the way - "Lower It" with 20 votes and "00VI" in second place with 10 votes. (1 for HID's, 2 for wheels, and 0 for Nav).

Lot's of great info in this thread (combined with searching and learning from other threads on the ORG!). Thank you to all that have contributed!!

I was busy yesterday/last night...

Purchased a WS Y, 00VI setup, EB, and D2 CO's. (I may look for a "reasonable" catback, but we'll see how it sounds with the OE replacement that's on there).

Now I just need to fix my rust prior to all this stuff coming...
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:31 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Cebby
As of this AM, here's how the voting stands:

Leading the way - "Lower It" with 20 votes and "00VI" in second place with 10 votes. (1 for HID's, 2 for wheels, and 0 for Nav).

Lot's of great info in this thread (combined with searching and learning from other threads on the ORG!). Thank you to all that have contributed!!

I was busy yesterday/last night...

Purchased a WS Y, 00VI setup, EB, and D2 CO's. (I may look for a "reasonable" catback, but we'll see how it sounds with the OE replacement that's on there).

Now I just need to fix my rust prior to all this stuff coming...
Good choice, and happy wrenching.
Btw, what made you want to get 00vi and not MEVI?
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:08 AM
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From what I've read, that while the 00VI is tougher to install, it's a better intake. Also read that with the MEVI low end torque suffers.

Plus, I knew someone who had a complete 00VI for sale, so that made it easy on me.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:28 AM
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I don't think its been mentioned, but you will need a wideband o2 sensor before you can do any tuning.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by schmellyfart
I don't think its been mentioned, but you will need a wideband o2 sensor before you can do any tuning.
I guess that's pretty important to know! I did some research after seeing your post, but info surrounding this wasn't very apparent (a lot of this stuff is new to me).

Does the wideband o2 sensor go in a stock location, or do I need to weld a bung on the exhaust specially for it. If so, where should it go?

Is there a widely accepted model that works best for us?
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Married with 3 kids and that statement don't go together...
dude, i know EXACTLY what you mean, i have 2 cats and a pigeon: ; ''that state'ment" DOES gO togethers i got my GED when i was 34. trust me i am smart =) reaaalllllly smart.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by alexx0108
dude, i know EXACTLY what you mean, i have 2 cats and a pigeon: ; ''that state'ment" DOES gO togethers i got my GED when i was 34. trust me i am smart =) reaaalllllly smart.
really reeaaallllllly smart
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:15 AM
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I'll bet you don't have to hide your money from your cats and pigeon so it doesn't disappear. I'd prefer to do what you suggest - believe me...
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:11 PM
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If your motor is solid then start working on the frame/suspension/steering, that's the most important thing next to your engine/tranny. New wheels are always great and are the biggest/most important exterior upgrade on any ride but you should always finish the frame/suspension/steering work first. The other stuff I wouldn't bother til later in the game.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I guess that's pretty important to know! I did some research after seeing your post, but info surrounding this wasn't very apparent (a lot of this stuff is new to me).

Does the wideband o2 sensor go in a stock location, or do I need to weld a bung on the exhaust specially for it. If so, where should it go?

Is there a widely accepted model that works best for us?
You will need to have a bung welded in the y pipe. I have mine on the y pipe after the flex section.

There's a handful of widebands that people use depending on their tuning device. Since you are getting an EB, I think you will be fine with most standalone wideband units such as the AEM UEGO and the Innovate LC-1.
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:17 PM
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If you wanna datalog the wideband signal on the EB, you will need to check the availability of the GReddy AFR harness. If that doesn't work, look into a Zeitronix wideband, that logs RPM, AFR, throttle%, etc by itself without extra hardware.

Oh and another note on the coilovers. Slam it!

Last edited by MoncefA33; 11-18-2010 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
What is the stock piping? 2.5 or 2.25? Is the Cattman Mandrel Bent? I guess more importantly, what is the dia. of the cat? That's got to be the bottleneck...
Stock is roughly 2.25". Believe it or not, the cat is not the bottleneck. The precat(s) in the OEM Y-pipe and the restrictive piping/bends in the OEM catback are.
Originally Posted by Cebby
In the interest of keeping some of this project budget under control, I'll go EB for now. It appears that I would just need an optional ignition harness to control timing.
That will work. Add the ignition harness, sell the EB and get the EU when the time comes.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
I guess that's pretty important to know! I did some research after seeing your post, but info surrounding this wasn't very apparent (a lot of this stuff is new to me).

Does the wideband o2 sensor go in a stock location, or do I need to weld a bung on the exhaust specially for it. If so, where should it go?

Is there a widely accepted model that works best for us?
As stated, you'll need to add an additional bung after the Y in the Ypipe. That's the best option. There are a few other options as well.

There is no one wideband that works best for our cars. Any good wideband will do the trick. AEM, PLX, FJO etc.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MoncefA33
If you wanna datalog the wideband signal on the EB, you will need to check the availability of the GReddy AFR harness. If that doesn't work, look into a Zeitronix wideband, that logs RPM, AFR, throttle%, etc by itself without extra hardware.

Oh and another note on the coilovers. Slam it!
You can also make your own AFR harness out of an old floppy drive power cable trimmed to fit.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:05 PM
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Can I use this?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...616#fragment-3
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Afraid not since it needs to be able to tie into the EB, or independently with it's own gauge. What you linked us to is for OEM applications. You need something like this...

http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.html

http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...fuel-gauge-25/

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cd92e41b445669

The possibilities are endless.
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Old 11-21-2010, 05:07 AM
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OK - not really interested in extra gauges, so looks like the PLX SM-AFR or the Innovate model would work be up my alley. (I will ride around with a netbook to datalog/tune initially tho) Got the A/F harness ordered.

I appreciate all the insight - I needed to learn this stuff for another project, so this is an awesome education...

EDIT:

After reading some more, it appears that the LC-1 is a highly regarded setup, so I'll probably go with that one.

Last edited by Cebby; 11-21-2010 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:10 PM
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Fwiw, I have the lc1 with xd16 gauge. Works great for me. Some people here have had issues though.
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:12 PM
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given the price of a DEK these days it would almost be better to just swap the whole motor over rather than a 00vi.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:34 AM
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That's probably true, but that's more of a project than I have time (or facilities for) to tackle right now.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Fwiw, I have the lc1 with xd16 gauge. Works great for me. Some people here have had issues though.
Have folks had issues with the gauge or the sensor? Are there any that have performed well and have had no reported issues?

I'm planning to add some plugs into the harness for the EB so this thing can be easily removed (or a different unit added) without additional work to the harness. (I realize that the EU and others probably use more connections, so I'll plan for that)
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:13 AM
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I haven't had any issues with my AEM UEGO.
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:51 PM
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I'm really leaning toward something without a gauge - figuring I'll ride with a netbook during tuning phase and then when I make the jump to F/I go with some display that can toggle through multiple inputs. I prefer a stealthy interior as much as possible.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:11 PM
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Received my W/S Y pipe today. Should I weld the Wideband bung between the flex and the cat connection? Or is this a better location (shown from an old F/S post by NWP)?



My concern is that if I get it too close to the cat, I might get some false readings.

Last edited by Cebby; 11-22-2010 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:27 PM
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i think the best thing to do is go after the one thats hardest to get ahold of while you can...i think with the way the maxima community is growing, atleast on here, more and more people are doing 00vis, pretty soon they might be harder to come by aside from buying complete deks. i mean good luck finding a mevi nowadays. u will always have many options on lowering, hids, gps, etc.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Have folks had issues with the gauge or the sensor? Are there any that have performed well and have had no reported issues?

I'm planning to add some plugs into the harness for the EB so this thing can be easily removed (or a different unit added) without additional work to the harness. (I realize that the EU and others probably use more connections, so I'll plan for that)
Some people have had issues with the sensor. Bad readings I guess. Personally, I think it user error most of the time, as the install has to be done EXACTLY per the instructions, or else issues will occur.

No personal experience with AEM, but I've heard nothing but good things here, and on the other forums I frequent.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Received my W/S Y pipe today. Should I weld the Wideband bung between the flex and the cat connection? Or is this a better location (shown from an old F/S post by NWP)?



My concern is that if I get it too close to the cat, I might get some false readings.
Weld it as shown in the pic you attached. Right after the Y intersection is best.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximaSpd85
i think the best thing to do is go after the one thats hardest to get ahold of while you can...i think with the way the maxima community is growing, atleast on here, more and more people are doing 00vis, pretty soon they might be harder to come by aside from buying complete deks. i mean good luck finding a mevi nowadays. u will always have many options on lowering, hids, gps, etc.

Doesnt courtesyparts.com still sell mevi kits?
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