kel456

Is it too much stressful on a 4th gen alternator when handling 300RMS amp, 80RMS powered boxed subwoofer, remote start alarm and etc like cell phone charger, portable GPS. Or is it pushing it?

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

You don't understand how electronics work. The amount of power that all your equipment can produce/use is a function of the output from the alternator. You will only get as much power from the alternator as it's designed to produce. So it's doesn't stress the alternator to produce more amperage, it just won't. Your equipment won't make as much power as you think, so your 1100 watts of amplifiers for example will be limited by the charging system. That being said, no you won't have a problem.

MAXC

iTrader: (7)

Also, keep in mind that a alternator produces power and the battery stores it. Depending on how rapidly you discharge the battery vs the alternators ability to charge it, is where the problem comes in, sometimes. All your equipment & accessories will not be running off the alternator but the battery instead. So you should be looking at your battery more than the alt. cause the alt. will be just fine.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Battery is for engine starting only, the alternator is designed to supply power to the vehicle for powering accessories. If your equipment uses more Amps than your alt can produce, the battery dies and your dead in the water. Running like this will kill the alt because its forced to output max amps continuously, and that makes excessive heat. Say goodby to voltage regulator and rectifier, not to mention stator and armature windings.

Your alt outputs 105 or 123A. 380W @12V is only 31.6A. Your fine. Depending on your amplifiers, RMS is often greatly exaggerated anyway. If you really want to know how much your using you can put a ammeter in your system positive cable.

kel456

Very useful info. Thanks.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

~2500 watts here, have had it for nearly 2 years. It will drain the battery pretty fast if you cut the car off. Major headlight dim, until I got my retro.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Also, what amps are you using? Most manufacturers list the current draw so you can calculate what you need. Is that 80w powered sub the Sound Ordinance from Crutchfield by any chance?

asand1 said 380W is only ~31A @12v, which is much less @ 13.8-14.4v. so you are fine. I used to laugh at the guys with Hondas that would have me install a >1000 watt rms amp in their cars...tiny batteries plus alternators that make 75a @ 7000 rpm are not a good recipe for reliable car audio and charging systems.

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

1 jiggawatt

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Your alternator wont handle that, I'd suggest this.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6SXG3WKucg

ampire

iTrader: (12)

my dual 500 watt rms monoblocks made my lights dim horrendously when I had them in my 99 civic si. I'm out of the whole car stereo scene and no longer have the car nor the system but it was pretty funny to see that puny electrical system in action.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

Let me say this,

Pull too much power you screw your battery
Pull even more power you screw your alternator
Pull even more power and you'll clip your amp and you no longer have to worry about your new alternator and battery.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

power also depends on how well the conductors to the source are.. remember voltage is the enemy in automotive applications.. having 12 volts on tap you need fat wiring to the amp. so make sure you have good clean grounds and you will be ok..

remember the battery in the car is basically a huge capacitor, if the battery is old and not charging right the alternator is working harder.