Hi everyone,
My 96 Maxima with 142,000 miles has developed an annoying problem as of late. At times it will be hard to start, in that it cranks over but does not start. Also at times it will not start but seem like the starter can't even turn over the motor. It is very werid because most times it starts perfectly. I know that it is not a starter issue, but what could it be? This evening I went to start it and it cranked a lot before it actually started, I drove it for a while and shut it off. When I went to restart it, it was perfect. Any ideas? Could this be a fuel issue?

Thanks,
Zack

 

check the charging system 4 low voltage? and load test the battery.

 

Well I am alomost 100% sure it has nothing to do with the chraging system or an electrical issue. When it cranks it does so with full force and power. It would seem to me that it is somehow related to a fuel issue.
I know there is currently another thread that mentions extra cranking when the gas tank is low, but I always keep mine full (however when my tank is low it will always do the extra cranking thing).

Zack

 

I'm just guessing that you didn't search, or you would have read 100 threads about faulty ignition switches. The ignition contacts in the switch go bad, cranks like a ****, but no spark or fuel.
Dont keep cranking, let go and try again. This is the stage mine mine is at now and this summer I might have to replace.

 

No I could not seem to find anything about that. Does the key need to be replaced as well? How hard of a job is this? Any threads on this replacement?

Thanks,
Zack

 

Ok well I did some searching about the switch, and it seems that when people have a bad ing switch, the car will not crank at all or there is a delay in cranking, mine cranks....The only thing that mine does at times is crank and almost feel as if the engine forces it to stop....A good description might be yanking on the pull starter of a lawn mower, and it "almost" starts and it yanks the cord from your hand without actually starting the mower?


Zack

 

So are you saying that when the switch goes bad it will allow the engine to crank, but not start?

Zack

 

yes
The starting contact in the switch work fine, but the ignition contacts are cooked. All you need to replace in this case is the switch. Key and lock cylinder should be fine. Some testing is in order before you buy the switch (~$25.00). Someone here can probably tell you where to test fopr voltage, Im at work without a FSM or enough time.

 

It is getting worse.......This morning I moved it in the driveway, and it started perfectly fine. Now I just went to move it back to the original space, and it would not start. It was cranking, however not starting. I tried a few times, then stopped. I went back out a few minutes later and tried it again. This time it did start barely! When the engine caught, it shook to life, and ran fine. Also the initial puff of exhaust after it started smelled horrible. Should I still be looking at the ing switch?

Thanks,
Zack

 

I think you need to check for spark and fuel pressure/injector pulse while cranking. If you have more money that diagnostic skills I would start at the ign switch.
Might possibly be a power issue. Unbolt grounds, clean to bare metal, re-assemble. Battery clamp/body/motor those 3 connections. Starter might be using available juice and not leaving enough for managemnent. Check positive clamp as well as the 2 smaller leads that plug in at the battery pos. If you can wiggle the battery clamps, they are too loose. clean away ANY corrosion at the clamps.

 

This is so strange...This morning I went to start the car it it started perfectly, and I have used it all day thus far, and each time I shut it off and restart it; it has been perfect. I stopped at the dealer and picked up a new ing switch, they had it in stock, and I paid $30.00 for it. I might try swapping it later. I just the problem would be consistent!

Zack

 

All day again today, the car started perfectly! This is so annoying. I wish it would just break, and not start at all so that the problem could be fixed once and for all!


Zack

 

crank positioning sensor.. or a faulty ground, if you live in south florida, i will fix that quick

 

Can you elaborate on the "crank position sensor"? What and where is that? Is it expensive?

 

The cps sensor is a halleffects sensor mounted just under the crankshaft pully. it reads the position of the crank for the ecu. When the sensor fails/ no signial to the ecu/ no power up to fuel and spark (it also will not set a code) darn thing! And it very-well could cause the problem you discribed. need a ome metter to test it but its pretty easy to get at with the side dust cover removed.

 

Had the same issue with my 97 Maxima. It was the "other" crankshaft position sensor on the driver's side front of the engine where the engine and transaxle join. Never set a code and tested OK resistance-wise, but when I finally replaced it last year the trouble went away and has not reoccured; sensor was about $100. I have read other threads today where grounding was an issue. I also had a problem with the ignition switch, but in my case the problem was that the engine would sometimes not turn over at all. That was a very easy and cheap fix - took less than 30 mins to replace it.

 

You state it's not the starter, why are you so sure? My starter gave me intermittent hard starts for over a month until it finally died. I did not think it was the starter either and no one on this forum suggested that it may be the starter when I described the problem.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ike-champ.html

What happened in my case was the starter was weak and did not crank the engine fast enough to start it. This was not obvious form just listening to it.

My Maxima was about 10 years old and had the original starter. If yours is original it probably needs changing. It is possible that the problem is not due the starter but I would not rule it out unless it is new.

 

I have a similar problem. My 1997 Nissan Maxima has a new battery, and a new starter. The alternator also works ok. However, when it is hot (i.e. have driven 50+ miles -or- its a very hot day); it will not start at all. It doesn't even crank or activate the starter solenoid. If we wait, it will eventually start. I think its a sensor, but could it be the ignition switch? or the keys. We got the car used and the remote locking stuff was all disabled and for the most part removed, so we only have access by key.