1996 Nissan Maxima 3L alternator mount coolent leak
11-30-2010, 05:54 PM
#1
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1996 Nissan Maxima 3L alternator mount coolent leak
I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima 3L coolent leak coming from the front of the engine. the leak is coming from under the alternator mount. I see what appears to be cylinder shaped tube within the engine casting, under the mount to the alternator with a small spray of coolent comimg from a round groove or crack in a tube like cyl. under the alternator mount. The tube appears to be some kind of water transfer tube running coolent from one side of the engine block to the other.
This coolent tube is directly above the oil pan and displays a leak which at first appears to be coming from between the A/C and alternator. Also this tube appears to have a bolt running through it or something like a bolt as I can see the tip of what appears be the small tip of a bolt showing through on the side of the engine where the belt runs. Does anyone know what this tube is, why it may be leaking or how to repair it? I would post a pic. but cannot see an upload button. thanks.
This coolent tube is directly above the oil pan and displays a leak which at first appears to be coming from between the A/C and alternator. Also this tube appears to have a bolt running through it or something like a bolt as I can see the tip of what appears be the small tip of a bolt showing through on the side of the engine where the belt runs. Does anyone know what this tube is, why it may be leaking or how to repair it? I would post a pic. but cannot see an upload button. thanks.
11-30-2010, 06:19 PM
#2
The location you describe is where the water pump is located. The water pump is located in the timing cover and has a weep hole located behind the alternator. What your seeing is probably the weep hole leaking due to a bad seal in the WP bearing.
12-01-2010, 03:01 AM
#3
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pic of the base of my alternator mount.
This is a pic of the base of my alternator mount. The arrow shows a cirrcular groove on a sort of coolent tube which is leaking. Is this a seal or weep hole?
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrowa.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrow.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak4b.jpg
Last edited by kenai1234; 12-01-2010 at 03:22 AM.
12-01-2010, 04:16 PM
#5
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Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic.
[quote=kenai1234;7833596]
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This is a pic of the base of my alternator mount. The arrow shows a cirrcular groove on a sort of coolent tube which is leaking. Is this a seal or weep hole?
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrowa.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrow.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak4b.jpg
----------------------------
It looks like Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic. links.
You can get them to work by just copy/paste them into your browser window.
---------------
This is a pic of the base of my alternator mount. The arrow shows a cirrcular groove on a sort of coolent tube which is leaking. Is this a seal or weep hole?
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrowa.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrow.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak4b.jpg
----------------------------
It looks like Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic. links.
You can get them to work by just copy/paste them into your browser window.
12-01-2010, 04:18 PM
#6
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Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic
This is a pic of the base of my alternator mount. The arrow shows a cirrcular groove on a sort of coolent tube which is leaking. Is this a seal or weep hole?
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrowa.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrow.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak4b.jpg
----------------------------
It looks like Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic. links.
You can get them to work by just copy/paste them into your browser window.
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrowa.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak3arrow.JPG
http://www.angelfire.com/music6/kenai123/altleak4b.jpg
----------------------------
It looks like Anglefire is blocking reposting these pic. links.
You can get them to work by just copy/paste them into your browser window.
12-02-2010, 06:20 PM
#8
Have you pressure tested the system and seen coolant come from there, or are you just assuming?
That's not a coolant passage. You more than likely need a water pump.
Pressure test the system.
That's not a coolant passage. You more than likely need a water pump.
Pressure test the system.
12-03-2010, 12:20 AM
#9
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Pressure test the system
Yes I ran the engine and followed the leak to this location. Water was spraying from this small crack or groove, where the red arrow pointing to in the pic. If this is not a coolent passage what is it? It appears to have some kind of bolt or rod running through it. I can see the tip of something showing just its tip on the side of the engine with the belts.
This is not a hole like a weep hole, it appears like a groove or crack.
Can't locate any info. on Nissan alternator base mount coolent lines.
Took it to a shop for a water pump and they said it was a seal above the water pump. It doesn't look like a seal but I can't find any info. on what this rasied tube or passage is under the alternator mount.
thanks for the help.
12-03-2010, 06:24 PM
#10
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water pump weep hole?
Are you saying that Nissan has a groove or slot under the alternator mount which allows water, from a bad water pump seal, to leak out?
Does anyone have a pic. of a alternator mount Nissan water pump weep hole? I would just like to see if it is the same as I'm seeing.
12-05-2010, 02:03 AM
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Pics not posting here are the links
12-05-2010, 07:06 PM
#16
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pressure tested the system?
Have you pressure tested the system and seen coolant come from there, or are you just assuming? That's not a coolant passage. You more than likely need a water pump.
------------------------------------------------------
Yes I pressure tested system and saw coolant spraying from the crack or groove in the pic. I understand that its not a coolant passage, so what is it? It appears to be maybe a bolt or rod placed within the casting. I can see the tip of something poking out of the casting on the left side under the belts, whatever this is, it lines up with the tube which appears to be leaking. The tip poking through the casting is about the size of a round pencil eraser. The end of the tip has a dimple in it but there isn't anything for a wrench or screw-driver, it looks like the tip of a bolt which has been screwed into the casting from the inside. Nothing is leaking out of the weep hole under the water-pump shaft.
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Yes I pressure tested system and saw coolant spraying from the crack or groove in the pic. I understand that its not a coolant passage, so what is it? It appears to be maybe a bolt or rod placed within the casting. I can see the tip of something poking out of the casting on the left side under the belts, whatever this is, it lines up with the tube which appears to be leaking. The tip poking through the casting is about the size of a round pencil eraser. The end of the tip has a dimple in it but there isn't anything for a wrench or screw-driver, it looks like the tip of a bolt which has been screwed into the casting from the inside. Nothing is leaking out of the weep hole under the water-pump shaft.
12-05-2010, 07:15 PM
#17
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weep hole leaking due to a bad seal ?
As far as I know the weep hole is directly under the water-pump shaft and there is nothing leaking from this location. I pressure tested the system and saw coolant spraying from the crack or groove in the pic. I understand that this is not a coolant passage, so what is it? It appears to be maybe a bolt or rod placed within the casting. I can see the tip of something poking out of the casting on the left side under the belts, whatever this is, it lines up with the tube which appears to be leaking. The tip poking through the casting is about the size of a round pencil eraser. The end of the tip has a dimple in it but there isn't anything for a wrench or screw-driver, it looks like the tip of a bolt which has been screwed into the casting from the inside. Nothing is leaking out of the weep hole under the water-pump shaft.
Been attempting to get a pic. of a plain engine casting to show what this tube under the alternator is but the only one I have found is at the below link. This casting pic. shows some but not much, I think its my same 3L engine.
http://pics.livejournal.com/boredmder/pic/000z2h96
12-05-2010, 08:45 PM
#18
I'm really surprised you haven't removed that alternator to get more access by now. It does look like a crack from the photo, but it's hard to tell from pictures sometimes. Are you trying to assess whether it's worth your effort to fix it?
12-05-2010, 10:55 PM
#20
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I pulled the alternator off and saw that its removal did not allow any increased access so I put it back on. This tube or what ever is completely covered by the alternator mount. All you can do is peer through the slots in the side of the mount, to see the leak. I have included a pic of a Nissan 3L like mine. It shows an alternator mount a lot like mine and has that same metal stud sticking through the timing plate with a dimple on its end. Does anyone know what this stud goes to or why its casing might leak coolant as its passes within the alternator mount?
These are the links to the pics.
http://imgur.com/bM28j&hLuQh http://imgur.com/gvFth
12-05-2010, 11:08 PM
#21
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whether it's worth your effort to fix it?[/
I do not want to replace the water-pump if there is nothing wrong with it.
I would actually love it to be the pump because that's at least do-able.
If its not the pump I would like to know how coolant is able to make it to the alternator mount and then I can either tig. it or try to seal it somehow. I would just like to know if it is possible for coolant to make into the base of the alternator mount?
12-05-2010, 11:15 PM
#22
I circled the weep hole in red.
Here is the back side of the inner timing cover and the weep hole circled in red along with a line showing where you see your leak coming from. The other red line is where your picture says crack. This is where the inner timing cover bolts to the block.
Here is the back side of the inner timing cover and the weep hole circled in red along with a line showing where you see your leak coming from. The other red line is where your picture says crack. This is where the inner timing cover bolts to the block.
Last edited by Maxima_Joe; 12-05-2010 at 11:44 PM.
12-06-2010, 03:45 AM
#23
The 'bolt' you're seeing is a locating dowel for the timing cover, nothing related to coolant.
As has been said, replace the water pump. For $50 and an hour or two of your time, you could've figured this out when you first posted and were first told the water pump was leaking.
The picture you've found is one of mine, an Altima VQ35 block but same setup.
As has been said, replace the water pump. For $50 and an hour or two of your time, you could've figured this out when you first posted and were first told the water pump was leaking.
The picture you've found is one of mine, an Altima VQ35 block but same setup.
12-06-2010, 08:23 PM
#24
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replacing the water pump
Okay, according to that it doesn't even matter if or where its leaking coolant, if I replace the water pump all leaking should end. That sound simple enough.
The best part about this problem is that when I first saw the leak I assumed it needed a new water pump. I took it to a shop for a new water pump. The shop tore into it, then called me saying that it wasn't the water pump and that the leak was coming from above the pump, maybe a leaking seal. They charged me $100 to tell me that the problem wasn't the pump! So I tear into it myself and conclude that it's the water pump again... If this "alternator mount weep point" is from a weeping pump, I will be amazed that Nissan allowed this engine to be built so that the pump can weep all over the engine or within the alternator mount... I will be replacing the pump and be posting the results. Thank You for the really great pics and info!
The best part about this problem is that when I first saw the leak I assumed it needed a new water pump. I took it to a shop for a new water pump. The shop tore into it, then called me saying that it wasn't the water pump and that the leak was coming from above the pump, maybe a leaking seal. They charged me $100 to tell me that the problem wasn't the pump! So I tear into it myself and conclude that it's the water pump again... If this "alternator mount weep point" is from a weeping pump, I will be amazed that Nissan allowed this engine to be built so that the pump can weep all over the engine or within the alternator mount... I will be replacing the pump and be posting the results. Thank You for the really great pics and info!
Last edited by kenai1234; 12-06-2010 at 08:42 PM.
08-07-2011, 04:45 AM
#25
95 Nissan Maxima with Mysterious Coolant Leak
Okay, according to that it doesn't even matter if or where its leaking coolant, if I replace the water pump all leaking should end. That sound simple enough.
The best part about this problem is that when I first saw the leak I assumed it needed a new water pump. I took it to a shop for a new water pump. The shop tore into it, then called me saying that it wasn't the water pump and that the leak was coming from above the pump, maybe a leaking seal. They charged me $100 to tell me that the problem wasn't the pump! So I tear into it myself and conclude that it's the water pump again... If this "alternator mount weep point" is from a weeping pump, I will be amazed that Nissan allowed this engine to be built so that the pump can weep all over the engine or within the alternator mount... I will be replacing the pump and be posting the results. Thank You for the really great pics and info!
The best part about this problem is that when I first saw the leak I assumed it needed a new water pump. I took it to a shop for a new water pump. The shop tore into it, then called me saying that it wasn't the water pump and that the leak was coming from above the pump, maybe a leaking seal. They charged me $100 to tell me that the problem wasn't the pump! So I tear into it myself and conclude that it's the water pump again... If this "alternator mount weep point" is from a weeping pump, I will be amazed that Nissan allowed this engine to be built so that the pump can weep all over the engine or within the alternator mount... I will be replacing the pump and be posting the results. Thank You for the really great pics and info!
Hi All,
Been reading and reading posts, looking for the best answer to my leaky problem. I know you guys are thinking how much can this girl know? But I promise I know more than most girls. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima GLE or GXE I can't remember which I think it’s the GXE (it’s got the pretty wood grain and leather interior) I know it’s not an SE as my speedometer has a black background.
Anyways it’s leaking coolant from the place everyone here is discussing. Currently its gotten progressively worse over the past three months, of course I noticed it right away and at first it was a small slow over night puddle and now it appears to be pouring three streams full speed off the front of the oil pan 24/7 as long as I fill it up it runs out. Funny part is it starts leaking immediately once the bottom hose starts to fill, she don't even have to be running, now I know your thinking hoses, I've checked all hoses I can visibly see and reach. They were all replaced a year or so ago. To say the least I'm pretty desperate by now to end my 4 gallon a day fill ups! I know it’s not the heater core, I had to bypass that a few weeks back, blew the connection right off the core so it’s completely out of the picture now. (I'll get that fixed before winter) So I took it to my mechanic after reading the forums here, and said here's a water pump do the job please? He obliged and proceeded with the job. I knew it was going to be a BIG job so I didn't even attempt going farther than the first step, diagnosing the issue. (I've read many posts in many forums mind you) So my mechanic calls me up after he gets down to the nitty gritty, he's not in the timing chain cover yet but he says I don't think its your water pump, the water seems to be coming out of a crack in the block near the alternator bracket, (he's removed the compressor and alternator) but see's it coming out of a crack in a valley on the block itself, so he asks me what I want him to do? My reply is confusion of course I've read that it can be misleading but to someone who works on cars for a living?? So, as baffled as I was he throws two suggestions out, stop leak or liquid glass? I know what stop leak is and what it does to an engine so I SAID NO STOP LEAK.. I opted for the liquid glass since he highly recommended it.. But wait, its not been done yet, the liquid glass, however I did specifically ask for him to complete the water pump while he has it apart anyways. That's in my mind the only right thing to do since I will have to pay this bill that's running up. So that's what leads me here at 5 am in the morning.. ok its 7:30 am now but I’ve spent hours looking and reading.. Wanting to be sure I make the right decision, cause this could make or break my car.. Which I love dearly.. And since Kenai1234 never posted his final results after 12/7/2010 my curiosity gets the best of me and I've gotta ask if replacing the water pump was the final solution to fixing your mysterious leak? Hope your around to help me out if not anyone else can chime in too.. But the biggest mystery to me is that no one has mentioned the severity of the leak beginning while they are refilling the radiator before they even start the car up.. Is this definitely what I am dealing with? A dead waterpump seal or is it the o ring I've read about behind the waterpump? I'm scared to death we are not going to go in deep enough to solve my leaky problem and it will exist even after the finish the water pump. My car sits waiting to be finished today so a fast answer is totally what I need if you can give it.. I'll be monitoring my emails closely in total hope that someone will help me out with the fix it solution so I can feel pretty confident that this is the right direction go.
Thank you
BeccaG64
08-07-2011, 07:00 AM
#26
Wow this seems to be a bad problem for you... for your info leather and woodgrain is gle...as far as your leak your mecanic should clean alk old antifreeze of and run some iltraviolet fluid through it... and with a black light or something of the sort he should be able to located the leak no problem at all
08-07-2011, 07:34 AM
#27
Thank You.. Maxima_Style
Wow this seems to be a bad problem for you... for your info leather and woodgrain is gle...as far as your leak your mecanic should clean alk old antifreeze of and run some iltraviolet fluid through it... and with a black light or something of the sort he should be able to located the leak no problem at all
But yep its going to be a definite do if she's leaking after the water pump replacement.. I doubt now is a good time to fill it with water and UV dye, the timing chain cover is now off and it's currently being worked on as I type, I just got off the phone with my mechanic and he is finishing up the pump replacement. Once that is out of the way, I've given directions to not do the liquid glass until after the car is back together, once we see if it's going to leak, by filling it up, if it does leak then we'll do the dye trick to follow and nail down the culprit. I've got to get the job done today and be able to drive my car to work on Monday, I will as a last resort use the liquid glass. Wish me luck..
Thanks again.
08-07-2011, 02:27 PM
#28
Well I'm VERY PLEASED to report back that it was indeed my water pump!! The new pump is in place with a lot of help from here.. http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=68, my mechanic had never done a maxima water pump before so I whipped out the old laptop and headed over there to step him through it.. All went smooth as silk once I got there. He had already spent well over 7 hours working on my car and the tensioner and water pump were still in it at the end of that point. But within 4 hours of calling me and asking for directions I was able to supply the intelligence needed and he was the muscle who together we got it done. WOOT WOOT!!!!
I cannot say enough about this experience. We have no lost parts in the timing cover to report, thank god for those people who stressed the importance in that! Thank you forums.maxima.org my problem is now totally fixed!!!! Now all I have to do is fix the heater core before winter hits..
Oh I don't think I ever mentioned that my Maxima has 211,000 miles on it of those miles I personally have put 71k of them on it without a problem one till march of this year, first it was an alternator, then it was the mass air flow sensor, then a knock sensor and power steering pressure hose, new brakes, new tires, new front end tie rod ends, new bushings all around and topped it off with an alignment. So yep that was an original water pump!! not to mention an original heater core as well.. She has served me well and now she can serve me even longer. I know I will be back looking for advice this I'm sure and if by chance help anyone out please do ask. Thanks again
I cannot say enough about this experience. We have no lost parts in the timing cover to report, thank god for those people who stressed the importance in that! Thank you forums.maxima.org my problem is now totally fixed!!!! Now all I have to do is fix the heater core before winter hits..
Oh I don't think I ever mentioned that my Maxima has 211,000 miles on it of those miles I personally have put 71k of them on it without a problem one till march of this year, first it was an alternator, then it was the mass air flow sensor, then a knock sensor and power steering pressure hose, new brakes, new tires, new front end tie rod ends, new bushings all around and topped it off with an alignment. So yep that was an original water pump!! not to mention an original heater core as well.. She has served me well and now she can serve me even longer. I know I will be back looking for advice this I'm sure and if by chance help anyone out please do ask. Thanks again
08-07-2011, 03:00 PM
#29
What exactly did they do that took 7 hours without even getting the water pump out yet? The pump is a 45 minute job, even the timing cover takes far less than 7 hours to remove.
I would recommend using someone else for your work, if they actually rely on the customer to provide the repair instructions...
I would recommend using someone else for your work, if they actually rely on the customer to provide the repair instructions...
12-09-2011, 12:43 PM
#30
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hello,
i've done little to no mechanical work in the past but using this forum, the VQpower.com link, and a couple videos on youtube, i've actually done about half of this procedure. hardest part was getting the tensioner out until now:
i am trying to put the new water pump into the housing. i have the chain around it, ready to go.
only issue is, only one of my bolt housings is threading to the bolt. the two opposites i used to jack the pump out with will not thread.
is this just as simple as using thread lock, rtv, etc to rethread and seal it or have a made an error and have absolutely destroyed my chances of fixing my vehicle?
please reply asap as i am in the middle of the procedure and i have zip time to get this thing back together.
thanks
i've done little to no mechanical work in the past but using this forum, the VQpower.com link, and a couple videos on youtube, i've actually done about half of this procedure. hardest part was getting the tensioner out until now:
i am trying to put the new water pump into the housing. i have the chain around it, ready to go.
only issue is, only one of my bolt housings is threading to the bolt. the two opposites i used to jack the pump out with will not thread.
is this just as simple as using thread lock, rtv, etc to rethread and seal it or have a made an error and have absolutely destroyed my chances of fixing my vehicle?
please reply asap as i am in the middle of the procedure and i have zip time to get this thing back together.
thanks
12-10-2011, 09:14 AM
#31
hello,
i've done little to no mechanical work in the past but using this forum, the VQpower.com link, and a couple videos on youtube, i've actually done about half of this procedure. hardest part was getting the tensioner out until now:
i am trying to put the new water pump into the housing. i have the chain around it, ready to go.
only issue is, only one of my bolt housings is threading to the bolt. the two opposites i used to jack the pump out with will not thread.
is this just as simple as using thread lock, rtv, etc to rethread and seal it or have a made an error and have absolutely destroyed my chances of fixing my vehicle?
please reply asap as i am in the middle of the procedure and i have zip time to get this thing back together.
thanks
i've done little to no mechanical work in the past but using this forum, the VQpower.com link, and a couple videos on youtube, i've actually done about half of this procedure. hardest part was getting the tensioner out until now:
i am trying to put the new water pump into the housing. i have the chain around it, ready to go.
only issue is, only one of my bolt housings is threading to the bolt. the two opposites i used to jack the pump out with will not thread.
is this just as simple as using thread lock, rtv, etc to rethread and seal it or have a made an error and have absolutely destroyed my chances of fixing my vehicle?
please reply asap as i am in the middle of the procedure and i have zip time to get this thing back together.
thanks
If you're able to get them threaded in no problem without the parts in the way, then most likely you just don't have the parts lined up correctly...it can be kind of tough to do it all by feel, especially the tensioner as the bolt holes can be hard to find while moving the tensioner around as well.
If you still can't get them threaded in, you'll need a flashlight and a mirror, or (even better) a borescope to take a close look at the holes and their threads. Also examine the bolts, check to make sure that the threads haven't gotten damaged at all.
12-10-2011, 10:06 AM
#33
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I saw on the YT comment that you are also having problems with the tensioner mounting bolts as well. The first step is, take the water pump and tensioner back out of the front cover, and try to thread the bolts in by hand (a good idea to use some much longer bolts, to ensure they won't fall into the cover).
If you're able to get them threaded in no problem without the parts in the way, then most likely you just don't have the parts lined up correctly...it can be kind of tough to do it all by feel, especially the tensioner as the bolt holes can be hard to find while moving the tensioner around as well.
If you still can't get them threaded in, you'll need a flashlight and a mirror, or (even better) a borescope to take a close look at the holes and their threads. Also examine the bolts, check to make sure that the threads haven't gotten damaged at all.
If you're able to get them threaded in no problem without the parts in the way, then most likely you just don't have the parts lined up correctly...it can be kind of tough to do it all by feel, especially the tensioner as the bolt holes can be hard to find while moving the tensioner around as well.
If you still can't get them threaded in, you'll need a flashlight and a mirror, or (even better) a borescope to take a close look at the holes and their threads. Also examine the bolts, check to make sure that the threads haven't gotten damaged at all.
i was having a problem using the tensionor bolts in the water pump area (since you used these as a guide in the video) and they do not thread, nor to the originals, in their mounts even without the part. the bolts are not damaged. the threading is almost too small for the tensionor bolts and seemingly too large for the water pump bolts, which makes even less sense to me. one of the 3 is still threading. the one in the position i didn't use to jack out the part, which is why i was afraid the m8x40's messed up the threading while i was jacking it out (which to be candid, DID crack my old water pump, even while doing 4 to 5 slight ratchet turns per, a mere 1/4 to 1/2 a full turn each), but those holes are way to small and will not even partially accept the m8x40's so i know i didn't bust into them like that.
i also used a q tip to make sure there were no metal shards from any stripping. came out oily and that's all. the originally bolts are in perfect shape.
this problem has me stuck, especially since i was planning on this taking only a days work, but this bolt issue and the fact that i've never done something like this before in a vehicle have really slowed me down.
if you have any more advice, i'm in desperate need. the whole thing is so darn close, if i can get these bolts in, i just need to replace what i've removed and voila, car is fixed... but it's really wearing on my nerves since i only attempted this on my own due to the fact i do not have money for a mechanic, hence putting my untrained hands at work.
12-10-2011, 02:09 PM
#34
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ok, new development: with the help of a friend, we were able to get the bolts in. the threading was a little wonky at the beginning due to the bolts i used to jack the car out with. after much pressure applied, they rethreaded, tho...
2 are going in snug, the 3rd is going in snug by hand and then loosening. it NEVER loosens to the point of coming out, and in fact doesn't give at all, it just stops feeling like it's getting tighter.
the water pump is straight and doesn't move. very very in there... do i leave it? do i run coolant and see if it still pours? things i need help deciding...
2 are going in snug, the 3rd is going in snug by hand and then loosening. it NEVER loosens to the point of coming out, and in fact doesn't give at all, it just stops feeling like it's getting tighter.
the water pump is straight and doesn't move. very very in there... do i leave it? do i run coolant and see if it still pours? things i need help deciding...
12-11-2011, 11:22 AM
#35
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
sorry to have pirated this thread, but the problems are solved due to some crazy amounts of pressure and loc tite...
car runs perfect, overheated once because i didn't put the spec amount of coolant in (again, i've never even done an oil change before this) but after i put more coolant in:
no more overheating
no more leaking
car now has heat
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!! the members of this board, and especially the guy that started this thread and of course boredmder! i couldn't have accomplished this without all of your knowledge and help!
car runs perfect, overheated once because i didn't put the spec amount of coolant in (again, i've never even done an oil change before this) but after i put more coolant in:
no more overheating
no more leaking
car now has heat
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!! the members of this board, and especially the guy that started this thread and of course boredmder! i couldn't have accomplished this without all of your knowledge and help!
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