PersianCzar

I have an 96' with an automatic tranny and wanted to get motor mounts. I am going with OEM mounts from DaveB. Im getting normal mounts tho, not ones with the liquid dampening electrical harness and got a quote for all 4 with shipping out the door for $410, including the 4 rubber pads for the crossmember.

1) Is that good? What would you guys do? No poly fill tho, I want a smoth ride not stiff.

2) Autopartswarehouse has a brand by the name of "Beck Arnley", "Mtc", and "DEA". Are these any good? Any feedback?

BeckArnley = 4,000 mile warrenty or 90 days
MTC & DEA = 12,000 mile or 12 month warrenty

3) I remember some people back in the day on this forum said the RH (Passenger side) mount next to the power steering reservoir, wont make a difference and that other 3 are the ones that need to be changed. That true? Logically, that doesnt make sense to me, just want to see what you guys think.

Greatly appreciate the feedback as always.

Happy holidays!

PersianCzar

bump

najee1062

bump

eFLO

iTrader: (2)

im pretty sure its safe to get mounts off ebay. set of 4 for ~100 i think

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Brand is not as important as how much oil, ATF, and PS fluid leaks onto them.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

huh?

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Soooo true.

I brought some mounts from ebay to hold the engine up while I find time to make poly urethane mounts myself, they seem to be doing the job.

to the OP: Just go with whatever your budget allows and the best warranty, it's what I do when I can't decide.

PersianCzar

So I just ended up getting the 4 OEM mounts from DaveB. So I will be changing them myself. So this leads me to the final tightening procedure to prevent noise and vibration...

I noticed the haynes manual states that if you replace more than one mount, the bolts have to be tightened in the following order:

1 crossmember bolts
2 rear engine mount
3 front engine mount
4 left tranny mount (drivers side)
5 right engine mount (passenger side)

AND it states that I have to tighten the bolts when the car is level AND when the engine is released from the jackstand/block of wood.

1) So, releasing the engine makes sense to distribute the weight before tightening. But if I have to tighten when the car is level, then I have to remove the jackstands from under my car. No problem, but will I have enough room to tighten then? How do I get my tools underneath? Or is it okay to have the front jack a lil bit to perform tightening if I cant reach the bolts?

2) Which mounts would you guys put in first? Front/rear first, then on to driver/pass mounts or vice versa?

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

I tightened them while the front was still raised. The only thing I had to adjust was the height/level of the trans/engine combo using another cheapy jack. It sounds more difficult than it is. You'll see when you go to put the bolts in the holes you might have to lower or raise the jack.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Why'd you get all 4? Why not just the front and rear?

As for what order to do them... Never really thought of that, I'd probably loosen them all, replace them all loosely, and start with passenger side, driver side, rear then front. Of course they're gonna say level ground, yada yada. It's not critical. A jack does help a lot in maneuvering. Good luck getting the rear mount, it's a fun one.

Dr J