PersianCzar

So I ordered 4 motor mounts from the dealership for my 96 automatic but ordered non-harness mounts. The front are rear are shown below:


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Which leads to me to my rear engine mounts. Can someone bust out an OEM rear mount and help me answer these questions?

1) Are they suppose to be smaller than the front mounts?

2) In left red circle, its pinched in on the rubber. Is this how its suppose to look like or is this a manufacturer defect?

3) In the right circle, in that area is a slight bubble-looking shape. That area has a mushy hollow-feeling spot around it, whereas the mount itself (on the other rubber areas) is nice and firm. All other 3 mounts are completely 100% firm. This suppose to be like this? LOL...



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Sorry if I sound like a supernoob, but I just never did this project and I'm doin it myself with Coors Light to accompany me.

thx

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Those are pretty scratched up... I know you got them from the dealership, they may be re manufactured?

I will try to find my old thread regarding mounts.

In the mean time, I would get some JB Weld and stuff as much as u can into those holes. then install them.

Any reason you didn't get the Energy Suspensions polyurethane mounts?

And what's your reasoning for getting the 2 side mounts?

Dr J

99greddymax

iTrader: (7)

those mounts are fine..

Dan0myte

iTrader: (1)

They look fine. Pop them in and enjoy!

PersianCzar

Got them from DaveB southpoint nissan. The scratches are the first thing I noticed too. Hope they are not remanufactured. ... The other ones look good:


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You mean to JB weld the inside of the rubber grooves? How does that compare to the feel of the polyurethane mounts?

I dont want hard mounts because my engine is at 200k and need some good dampening frequency for mounts (rubber) vs the hard mounts. Im trying to baby my engine until the car slowly "caves in" as I dont push it to the limits. So I figured high vibrations could potentially wear the gaskets out faster and turn a slight leak into a bigger one. I felt it could be a risk.

I got side mounts to prevent extra force being distributed on the bottom front and rear mounts. Better distribution of force will be created if all 4 mounts are put in at the same time. It will make mounts last longer as well. Also, I got the driverside mount because I hear a clunk on turns and have exhausted all options so I think this is the cure.

seanwn

iTrader: (15)

If you bought them from DaveB, write/call him. He's a long time member and a well respected member/seller of factory parts. He wouldn't risk that reputation. I've discussed my concerns with him and always ended up satisfied.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Personally I think supporting the engine appropriately will decreased the amount of wear, particularly to the axles where they insert into the transmission. You're right, initially the ES poly mounts were rough, but after going through a tank-full gas, you hardly notice the firmness.

Also, the side mounts don't do much to keep the engine from rocking back and forth. I think the only time they really come into play is when you're taking a hard turn, twisting the chassis and leaning.

You've already bought mounts, so I'll live with it. As for the JB Weld, you can do that later if it turns out not firm enough. BTW, can I have your old mounts? I'll pay for shipping.

As for clunk, You're probably on the right track. With 200k, there's a few things that'll wear out:

Power steering gear (try changing PS fluid)

Tie rod end (Very very very common. Lucky it's easy to change, and cheap)

CV joint. Have you ever ripped the CV joint boot? If so, dirt could get into the joint and destroy it. Common symptom is clicking, but it could clunk if serious.

Hub or wheel bearing. These wear out for no reason. Mine clunked when turning, like you said. It also caused my brakes to do funny things.

Strut mount. Very common, and easily overlooked. Open your hood, stand by the strut mount, grab the body of the car by the strut mount, rock the car back and forth. If the little nut inside the mount moves, your mount is worn out. Also check the condition of your struts to see if they're also worn.

Check the bushings and mounts to the front sway bar. Sway bar end links are commonly worn too.

Control arm bushing: People replace these as a precaution, but I've never seen a worn one. I had 224k miles, driven hard and tracked, and never had an issue.

If the clunk happened while in stop-and-go traffic, I'd say it was the motor mounts, but you said when turning.

Dr J

keithz72

They tend to go bad when soaked in oil!

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

I was trying to think if there's a reason to even call DaveB. I guess maybe to ask about the scratches and find out if they were reman. If they were, I'd ask him to adjust the price and partial refund. I would also ask him why he allowed you to buy the side mounts. He's a smart guy and should know that it's pretty rare to replace the side mounts. I'm not saying it never gets worn, but rarely.

Dr J

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

What oil from where?
Dr J

bryan163

iTrader: (2)

All the side mounts I've removed from various 4th gens have rips and the owners did complain of clunking before replacing them. many of them were damaged by the extra strain put on them by failing front and rear mounts, and or a failing radiator support.

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

i installed ES mounts on my maxima, you notice the diffrence only the first time you start the car, but then you get used to it really quick

Gamble

iTrader: (1)

Are you really *****ing about scratches on the motor mount brackets? I bet you will scratch them more when you install them so don't even worry about it. If it's a big deal use a marker or $2 can of spray paint. You said you car has 200k miles so I'm assuming it's not a show car and I'm sure you can deal with scratches on the motor mount bracket itself.

JB Weld? Really?
Do things the proper way and go to lee auto parts and get some 3M window weld. This is an old trick that sport compact car used. Lay the mount down and put cardboard or something flat on the side and fill it with window weld. Let it cure, flip and do it again. 48hours later you install.
It's black, it hardens to a material just like the stock rubber. It will do the job of the es mounts and you will hardly notice the vibrations. It's the best of all worlds doing this. $11 tube you can get all 4 mounts done.
I did this on my dsm, mazda and sentra.

Dan0myte

iTrader: (1)

I love how you're sticking your nose up in the air about someone's ghetto mod and then suggesting another ghetto mod.

The proper way is to get poly mounts if you like it stiff or new mounts (like the original poster) if you like it soft.

Gamble

iTrader: (1)

OR if you want stiff mounts without vibration. If you want to fill them. Then do it the way Sport Compact car recommends, but I don't care, you are calling them ghetto not me.

I do full ES replacements because my car will rip through a mount in no time with all the torque. On the dd, stock or filled, who cares.

bolini

Is there a reason why the bolt head is half the size of the front mount? I have changed my front mount but one of the bolts that attaches the rear mount to the bar won't come loose. I can get it to spin. The wrench is now starting to slip on the bolt head so I have little hope in getting it off with the wrench now. Any ideas that will help?
Do I have to split the nut and replace bolt? Should I replace it with a bigger head like the front mount has?
Thanks
Sam