Gambles progress thread
02-05-2011, 07:58 PM
#201
I'll try it out, now that I have what I need it's only 10minutes to change.
This ****ing Y pipe can suck my ********. What else could go wrong?
Rusted to **** bolts. Had to cut them off. Had to drill out the end on the stock cat back. Y pipe doens't fit right. Took it off and drilled out the bolt holes. Test fit again, no luck. Take it off and drill out the holes again. Kind of fits now. One of the nuts came out with the stud attached.
Pull out the other studs and one breaks at the last few threads nice and flat. WTF. Drill it out, put a tap in there. ****ing tap breaks in half. Cut it so it's flat and get an air hammer. Get it out. Bolt up the Y pipe. Rear bolts go in good now. I used new bolts.
Oh hey same problem on the front now. WTF
In the 10hours I have been doing this I got both headlights on, got the wiring correct. Got the HID kit in, new front grill, brembo rotor and hawk pads on 1 corner and been humping this Y pipe all day! Ugh. I don't want to be doing this **** on superbowl sunday.
Oh and FML I moved the a/c line out of the way, just barely moved it and now it's spraying freon all over. FML
This ****ing Y pipe can suck my ********. What else could go wrong?
Rusted to **** bolts. Had to cut them off. Had to drill out the end on the stock cat back. Y pipe doens't fit right. Took it off and drilled out the bolt holes. Test fit again, no luck. Take it off and drill out the holes again. Kind of fits now. One of the nuts came out with the stud attached.
Pull out the other studs and one breaks at the last few threads nice and flat. WTF. Drill it out, put a tap in there. ****ing tap breaks in half. Cut it so it's flat and get an air hammer. Get it out. Bolt up the Y pipe. Rear bolts go in good now. I used new bolts.
Oh hey same problem on the front now. WTF
In the 10hours I have been doing this I got both headlights on, got the wiring correct. Got the HID kit in, new front grill, brembo rotor and hawk pads on 1 corner and been humping this Y pipe all day! Ugh. I don't want to be doing this **** on superbowl sunday.
Oh and FML I moved the a/c line out of the way, just barely moved it and now it's spraying freon all over. FML
02-05-2011, 10:04 PM
#202
I hate this car with a passion right now. I really really do. I found a bolt on the fender missing, wtf. Got the car all buttoned up and started it. Big exhaust leak. The flanges on the Y pipe are at a very slight angle. So that doesn't help. Inside the cabin smells like exhaust now. I'm going to have to do something this week and quick.
So I'm getting ready to leave my parents house with all my new parts, new headlights, grill etc. Close the hood and the ****ing tab on the brand new front grill breaks. WTF. No wonder everyone uses zip ties. So screw it, I've been playing with the car for 12 hours, enough is enough. Zip tie the ***** and start driving. Give it some gas and the car starts to move, lay off the gas and the car is still going....ugh what?!?!?! Throw it in neutral and turn the car off. Ok weird. Check the gas pedal and it's not stuck. Turn the car on and it redlines itself so I turn it off real quick. Throw it in neutral and figured I can cost backwards to the curb and park.
Go to check the throttle cable and wouldn't you know it. It got stuck on the hose clamp for the throttle body. Really?!? That is possible? Look for a screwdriver in the car (good thing I had one) and my friend drives by. She's like I thought you sold this ****box. Nope this is my new ****box. She's like well good thing you have a flashlight with you, and I said the only reason I have a flashlight is because the interior lighting on this car sucks. Then she leaves. I readjust the hose clamp and go on my merry way.
Now being that I just put in the headlights, they were pointing everyway but straight. Good thing I live a few miles away. Throw the dog in the house and back the car up to the curb so I can adjust my headights. I'm turning the **** out of these 2 ***** and the headlights are hardly adjusting. I need them to go up/down, but seems like they don't have an option that way. So I figure after 10 minutes it's cold and I'm done for today. Close the hood and wouldn't you know it, the other side of the ****ing grill clip breaks.
Are you kidding me? I'm ready to drive this car off a cliff. I'm beyond pissed right now.
Go for a drive and the headlight situation is better but still sucks donkey pole.
Power wise for the header and intake pipe. Throttle response is meh, nothing better. Maybe worse if anything. The car is loud (of course with a leak) and I don't feel like this is a night/day difference for power like everyone says. I mean the powerband is more linear for sure, but it doesn't feel like 15-20hp. Feels like less. Either way I'm sure the exhaust leak doesn't help and I have to give the ECU time to adjust and update fuel trims etc.
Oh I decided to try and install a new am/fm window mount antenna. I bought that and a female to female antenna adapter. Go figure nissan is the only ******* that have to have a different antenna adapter. So I just threw that **** in the back seat for a rainy day.
Anyone want to buy this car? I hate it.
FML I just realized I forgot to tighten down my lug nuts. The simplest thing and I forgot it because the car was in the air.
I'm sure I forgot about other things that happened today that didn't go well like the other manifold that stripped when I was sooo close to finishing, but I'm exhausted, pissed off and need to go to bed. **** you car and good night.
Enjoy the story. I'll throw up some pics I took from today but I'm not going to caption them as I'm going to bed.
So I'm getting ready to leave my parents house with all my new parts, new headlights, grill etc. Close the hood and the ****ing tab on the brand new front grill breaks. WTF. No wonder everyone uses zip ties. So screw it, I've been playing with the car for 12 hours, enough is enough. Zip tie the ***** and start driving. Give it some gas and the car starts to move, lay off the gas and the car is still going....ugh what?!?!?! Throw it in neutral and turn the car off. Ok weird. Check the gas pedal and it's not stuck. Turn the car on and it redlines itself so I turn it off real quick. Throw it in neutral and figured I can cost backwards to the curb and park.
Go to check the throttle cable and wouldn't you know it. It got stuck on the hose clamp for the throttle body. Really?!? That is possible? Look for a screwdriver in the car (good thing I had one) and my friend drives by. She's like I thought you sold this ****box. Nope this is my new ****box. She's like well good thing you have a flashlight with you, and I said the only reason I have a flashlight is because the interior lighting on this car sucks. Then she leaves. I readjust the hose clamp and go on my merry way.
Now being that I just put in the headlights, they were pointing everyway but straight. Good thing I live a few miles away. Throw the dog in the house and back the car up to the curb so I can adjust my headights. I'm turning the **** out of these 2 ***** and the headlights are hardly adjusting. I need them to go up/down, but seems like they don't have an option that way. So I figure after 10 minutes it's cold and I'm done for today. Close the hood and wouldn't you know it, the other side of the ****ing grill clip breaks.
Are you kidding me? I'm ready to drive this car off a cliff. I'm beyond pissed right now.
Go for a drive and the headlight situation is better but still sucks donkey pole.
Power wise for the header and intake pipe. Throttle response is meh, nothing better. Maybe worse if anything. The car is loud (of course with a leak) and I don't feel like this is a night/day difference for power like everyone says. I mean the powerband is more linear for sure, but it doesn't feel like 15-20hp. Feels like less. Either way I'm sure the exhaust leak doesn't help and I have to give the ECU time to adjust and update fuel trims etc.
Oh I decided to try and install a new am/fm window mount antenna. I bought that and a female to female antenna adapter. Go figure nissan is the only ******* that have to have a different antenna adapter. So I just threw that **** in the back seat for a rainy day.
Anyone want to buy this car? I hate it.
FML I just realized I forgot to tighten down my lug nuts. The simplest thing and I forgot it because the car was in the air.
I'm sure I forgot about other things that happened today that didn't go well like the other manifold that stripped when I was sooo close to finishing, but I'm exhausted, pissed off and need to go to bed. **** you car and good night.
Enjoy the story. I'll throw up some pics I took from today but I'm not going to caption them as I'm going to bed.
02-05-2011, 10:29 PM
#205
Gamble, I feel for you. I honestly do.
1. Get some good sleep.
2. Watch the SuperBowl while drinking a few beers, tomorrow.
3. ?????
4. Profit.
I'm curious... what y-pipe brand is that? I've heard a few members say brand doesn't matter, and I want to point out that this may be yet another contradiction to that argument. I've never heard anyone have problems with fitment on Cattman and my Warpspeed bolted up without even a grunt. May be worth the extra dough for future buyers to take heed.
Again, get some rest and get some pitchers ready. It looks like you, for sure, have a lot of lemonade to make.
1. Get some good sleep.
2. Watch the SuperBowl while drinking a few beers, tomorrow.
3. ?????
4. Profit.
I'm curious... what y-pipe brand is that? I've heard a few members say brand doesn't matter, and I want to point out that this may be yet another contradiction to that argument. I've never heard anyone have problems with fitment on Cattman and my Warpspeed bolted up without even a grunt. May be worth the extra dough for future buyers to take heed.
Again, get some rest and get some pitchers ready. It looks like you, for sure, have a lot of lemonade to make.
02-05-2011, 10:38 PM
#206
Those headlights looks freakin SWEET ! Pretty badass setup you have there.
Those exaust leaks are going to hurt your throttle response so untill you fix it
your going to be hurtin for more power.
Despite the grill breaking off at the tabs it looks great and adds a touch of luxury to the car.
Im not knocking you but please take that *&^&ING intake pipe off and put the snorkel
back in because that thing is also robbing you of power. This aint a &^%ing Honda.
Those exaust leaks are going to hurt your throttle response so untill you fix it
your going to be hurtin for more power.
Despite the grill breaking off at the tabs it looks great and adds a touch of luxury to the car.
Im not knocking you but please take that *&^&ING intake pipe off and put the snorkel
back in because that thing is also robbing you of power. This aint a &^%ing Honda.
02-05-2011, 11:18 PM
#207
Wow lots of problems with the y-pipe, did you line everything up before you began tightening bolts? Word of advice too Gambe take one mod at a time it seems like your doing too many mods at the same time and with little time and its driving you nuts!
Btw headlights look awesome
Btw headlights look awesome
02-06-2011, 06:34 AM
#208
I'll get some as soon as I get the lights adjusted properly. Any idea on how to aim them up?
And FYI the brights on these projectors are 100% useless. They are less bright than the lo beam.
I'm for sure going to relax today and have a few drinks.
It's an ebay pipe with headers for $180ish. That was half he problem but the rust was the other half of the problem. I'd like to take the manifold off and see if I can fix the studs but the rear one looks like a nightmare. I don't know where to begin. I don't want to remove the UIM.
You are not the first person to say that so maybe I will take it off now.
The Y pipe is such a tight fit even with drilling out the holes I had to put the rear header flange on first then the front one. If I put the front one on first I didn't have enough room to get the rear flange on. It's weird.
Also looks like the rear cat is starting to fall apart inside. Awesome.
Any how to links for the rear manifold with pictures? I've seen some but no pictures. I want to know the best way to get the heatshield off since that is the biggest PITA from what I have gathered.
I'm curious now about the intake and snorkel. Guys that run a place racing or other intakes that are cold air don't leave the stock snorkel on, why is that?
And FYI the brights on these projectors are 100% useless. They are less bright than the lo beam.
Gamble, I feel for you. I honestly do.
1. Get some good sleep.
2. Watch the SuperBowl while drinking a few beers, tomorrow.
3. ?????
4. Profit.
I'm curious... what y-pipe brand is that? I've heard a few members say brand doesn't matter, and I want to point out that this may be yet another contradiction to that argument. I've never heard anyone have problems with fitment on Cattman and my Warpspeed bolted up without even a grunt. May be worth the extra dough for future buyers to take heed.
Again, get some rest and get some pitchers ready. It looks like you, for sure, have a lot of lemonade to make.
1. Get some good sleep.
2. Watch the SuperBowl while drinking a few beers, tomorrow.
3. ?????
4. Profit.
I'm curious... what y-pipe brand is that? I've heard a few members say brand doesn't matter, and I want to point out that this may be yet another contradiction to that argument. I've never heard anyone have problems with fitment on Cattman and my Warpspeed bolted up without even a grunt. May be worth the extra dough for future buyers to take heed.
Again, get some rest and get some pitchers ready. It looks like you, for sure, have a lot of lemonade to make.
It's an ebay pipe with headers for $180ish. That was half he problem but the rust was the other half of the problem. I'd like to take the manifold off and see if I can fix the studs but the rear one looks like a nightmare. I don't know where to begin. I don't want to remove the UIM.
Those headlights looks freakin SWEET ! Pretty badass setup you have there.
Those exaust leaks are going to hurt your throttle response so untill you fix it
your going to be hurtin for more power.
Despite the grill breaking off at the tabs it looks great and adds a touch of luxury to the car.
Im not knocking you but please take that *&^&ING intake pipe off and put the snorkel
back in because that thing is also robbing you of power. This aint a &^%ing Honda.
Those exaust leaks are going to hurt your throttle response so untill you fix it
your going to be hurtin for more power.
Despite the grill breaking off at the tabs it looks great and adds a touch of luxury to the car.
Im not knocking you but please take that *&^&ING intake pipe off and put the snorkel
back in because that thing is also robbing you of power. This aint a &^%ing Honda.
Wow lots of problems with the y-pipe, did you line everything up before you began tightening bolts? Word of advice too Gambe take one mod at a time it seems like your doing too many mods at the same time and with little time and its driving you nuts!
Btw headlights look awesome
Btw headlights look awesome
Also looks like the rear cat is starting to fall apart inside. Awesome.
Any how to links for the rear manifold with pictures? I've seen some but no pictures. I want to know the best way to get the heatshield off since that is the biggest PITA from what I have gathered.
I'm curious now about the intake and snorkel. Guys that run a place racing or other intakes that are cold air don't leave the stock snorkel on, why is that?
Last edited by Gamble; 02-06-2011 at 06:36 AM.
02-06-2011, 09:24 AM
#209
dude, honestly the uim is not that hard to remove and if you want to properly install headers removing it is the best option. i had mine off in about 20 minutes when i replaced my valve cover gaskets. if you ever want a hand feel free to ask i live 30 minutes away from streamwood TOPS and ive taken my car apart lots of times
as for the headlight adjusters, there is 2 up and down and left and right i believe the up and down adjuster would be close the the bottom right corner on the right light. and bottom right on the left light. but im not sure its been so long
as for the headlight adjusters, there is 2 up and down and left and right i believe the up and down adjuster would be close the the bottom right corner on the right light. and bottom right on the left light. but im not sure its been so long
Last edited by maxed_out_99; 02-07-2011 at 08:31 PM.
02-09-2011, 08:22 AM
#211
Well it's official I hate this car with a passion. I'm ready to dump it or sell it.
When I did the y pipe the flanges didn't line up right so I put on the front header. 1 hour to put on tops, that was easy.
Drove around for a few days with an exhaust leak. Was going to bring it to my brothers work and throw it on a lift to look at things but he hurt his back. So I spent my day off yesterday trying to figure out what to do.
I started to take off the rear manifold. First the crossmember, only 1 of the front bolts came out, The one one was rusted. I used an air impact and it barley moved. I used a ratchet and a 3-4foot breaker bar. It turned but barely and wouldn't come out. Putting it back in, the air impact wouldn't budge it.
Rear of the crossmember was no problem. Oh and the bolts for the splashsheild in the front (10mm) were rusted on my 12v Milwaukee impact wouldn't even spin them.
Rear motor mount bracket. Whoever designed this is stupid. The top bolts are impossible to get at. I tried a pry bar and tried to bend and move things. There was too much metal.
So I got out my drill and drilled some holes in the corner to help flex it. Got the top left bolt out then. The top right one wasn't about to happen. Drilled a few more holes and figured it was far too time consuming. So I turned on the air compressor and got the (name slips me right now) punch on the impact gun. I made it look like swiss cheese and it still sucked to move. Go I get it out and got my dremel and cut the top portion of it off so I never have to mess with that **** again.
The pipe for the egr was a ***** to break loose.
4 of the nuts came off with the studs. Putting the header back on the egr tube didn't line up for ****. Had my brother come over and help me out. He got it on and then had to use a 1" crows foot to tighten the egr on top of the manifold. The washer that is on the nut of the manifold hits the welds on the header. Awesome.
Putting the Y pipe on was a nightmare as the flanges didn't line up. Now I have to bring it to a muffler shop to have it cut/rotated/welded.
Do NOT buy ebay headers, they are complete ****. Save your money for anything else. It's soooo worth it. I would of rather spent double the money to have something that fit right.
12hours on my back yesterday for just the rear manifold. **** you car.
Here is my crap fitment on it right now.
To make things worse the threads weren't tapped correctly. Awesome.
Now for the heatshield. That wasn't that bad at all. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. I did NOT remove the UIM for this install however I HIGHLY recommend it for anyone else that plans on doing this.
If you look down between the firewall and back of the UIM you can see 2 bolts for the heatshield. You will need a long extension or in my case 3 extensions. Chances are they are rusted to **** so a 10mm will not work. Buy yourself a set of turbo sockets. I used one that was old and worn down (10mm turbo socket) and got one bolt off. The other I had to use a 3/8" turbo socket because it was in better shape.
Then from under the car I used a small wrench 3/8 and was able to break loose the 2 bolts and get the heatshield out in 1 piece. This saved a lot of time. Probably took me 30min for the heatshield.
BTW What on the power steering pump leaks on these cars? It's looking like it has been leaking slowly for a long time. And how hard is it to fix?
EDIT: Also a good tip I learned from my brother on these that will help. Once the crossmember is down and you can rock the motor back and forth, rock it back and put a piece of wood or 2x4 between the frame and the transmission so you don't have to keep moving it around. I didn't have either so I used a big pipe.
When I did the y pipe the flanges didn't line up right so I put on the front header. 1 hour to put on tops, that was easy.
Drove around for a few days with an exhaust leak. Was going to bring it to my brothers work and throw it on a lift to look at things but he hurt his back. So I spent my day off yesterday trying to figure out what to do.
I started to take off the rear manifold. First the crossmember, only 1 of the front bolts came out, The one one was rusted. I used an air impact and it barley moved. I used a ratchet and a 3-4foot breaker bar. It turned but barely and wouldn't come out. Putting it back in, the air impact wouldn't budge it.
Rear of the crossmember was no problem. Oh and the bolts for the splashsheild in the front (10mm) were rusted on my 12v Milwaukee impact wouldn't even spin them.
Rear motor mount bracket. Whoever designed this is stupid. The top bolts are impossible to get at. I tried a pry bar and tried to bend and move things. There was too much metal.
So I got out my drill and drilled some holes in the corner to help flex it. Got the top left bolt out then. The top right one wasn't about to happen. Drilled a few more holes and figured it was far too time consuming. So I turned on the air compressor and got the (name slips me right now) punch on the impact gun. I made it look like swiss cheese and it still sucked to move. Go I get it out and got my dremel and cut the top portion of it off so I never have to mess with that **** again.
The pipe for the egr was a ***** to break loose.
4 of the nuts came off with the studs. Putting the header back on the egr tube didn't line up for ****. Had my brother come over and help me out. He got it on and then had to use a 1" crows foot to tighten the egr on top of the manifold. The washer that is on the nut of the manifold hits the welds on the header. Awesome.
Putting the Y pipe on was a nightmare as the flanges didn't line up. Now I have to bring it to a muffler shop to have it cut/rotated/welded.
Do NOT buy ebay headers, they are complete ****. Save your money for anything else. It's soooo worth it. I would of rather spent double the money to have something that fit right.
12hours on my back yesterday for just the rear manifold. **** you car.
Here is my crap fitment on it right now.
To make things worse the threads weren't tapped correctly. Awesome.
Now for the heatshield. That wasn't that bad at all. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. I did NOT remove the UIM for this install however I HIGHLY recommend it for anyone else that plans on doing this.
If you look down between the firewall and back of the UIM you can see 2 bolts for the heatshield. You will need a long extension or in my case 3 extensions. Chances are they are rusted to **** so a 10mm will not work. Buy yourself a set of turbo sockets. I used one that was old and worn down (10mm turbo socket) and got one bolt off. The other I had to use a 3/8" turbo socket because it was in better shape.
Then from under the car I used a small wrench 3/8 and was able to break loose the 2 bolts and get the heatshield out in 1 piece. This saved a lot of time. Probably took me 30min for the heatshield.
BTW What on the power steering pump leaks on these cars? It's looking like it has been leaking slowly for a long time. And how hard is it to fix?
EDIT: Also a good tip I learned from my brother on these that will help. Once the crossmember is down and you can rock the motor back and forth, rock it back and put a piece of wood or 2x4 between the frame and the transmission so you don't have to keep moving it around. I didn't have either so I used a big pipe.
Last edited by Gamble; 02-09-2011 at 08:26 AM.
02-09-2011, 08:45 AM
#212
Well it's official I hate this car with a passion. I'm ready to dump it or sell it.
-Ah having one of those moments, I curse myself for buying a 99 every once in awhile, if the car wasn't red, i would have moved on by now.
I started to take off the rear manifold. First the crossmember, only 1 of the front bolts came out, The one one was rusted. I used an air impact and it barley moved. I used a ratchet and a 3-4foot breaker bar. It turned but barely and wouldn't come out. Putting it back in, the air impact wouldn't budge it.
Rear of the crossmember was no problem. Oh and the bolts for the splashsheild in the front (10mm) were rusted on my 12v Milwaukee impact wouldn't even spin them.
-BE VERY CAREFUL PUTTING THOSE BOLTS BACK IN! I f'd up one thead pretty bad, and kinda stripped another one.
Rear motor mount bracket. Whoever designed this is stupid. The top bolts are impossible to get at. I tried a pry bar and tried to bend and move things. There was too much metal.
So I got out my drill and drilled some holes in the corner to help flex it. Got the top left bolt out then. The top right one wasn't about to happen. Drilled a few more holes and figured it was far too time consuming. So I turned on the air compressor and got the (name slips me right now) punch on the impact gun. I made it look like swiss cheese and it still sucked to move. Go I get it out and got my dremel and cut the top portion of it off so I never have to mess with that **** again.
-Fun stuff, I had the world's smallest ratchet and one of my small friends (he weighs like 120) get back there and unbolt it if I'm remembering correctly, like I said via pm it was all a blur cause we were all low on sleep/hungry/tired.
The pipe for the egr was a ***** to break loose.
4 of the nuts came off with the studs. Putting the header back on the egr tube didn't line up for ****. Had my brother come over and help me out. He got it on and then had to use a 1" crows foot to tighten the egr on top of the manifold. The washer that is on the nut of the manifold hits the welds on the header. Awesome.
-EGR Delete = your friend, unless you have emissions to worry about.
Now for the heatshield. That wasn't that bad at all. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. I did NOT remove the UIM for this install however I HIGHLY recommend it for anyone else that plans on doing this.
If you look down between the firewall and back of the UIM you can see 2 bolts for the heatshield. You will need a long extension or in my case 3 extensions. Chances are they are rusted to **** so a 10mm will not work. Buy yourself a set of turbo sockets. I used one that was old and worn down (10mm turbo socket) and got one bolt off. The other I had to use a 3/8" turbo socket because it was in better shape.
Then from under the car I used a small wrench 3/8 and was able to break loose the 2 bolts and get the heatshield out in 1 piece. This saved a lot of time. Probably took me 30min for the heatshield.
-WHAT?! THIS LITERALLY TOOK ME HOURS?! Eventually I was able to cut in up in pieces so I could move it and get to the rear mani bolts, and it fell out when the rear mani came out.
BTW What on the power steering pump leaks on these cars? It's looking like it has been leaking slowly for a long time. And how hard is it to fix?
-I have one too, you can see it all over the hose, I will probably attend to it whenever I swap the motors, more room.
-Ah having one of those moments, I curse myself for buying a 99 every once in awhile, if the car wasn't red, i would have moved on by now.
I started to take off the rear manifold. First the crossmember, only 1 of the front bolts came out, The one one was rusted. I used an air impact and it barley moved. I used a ratchet and a 3-4foot breaker bar. It turned but barely and wouldn't come out. Putting it back in, the air impact wouldn't budge it.
Rear of the crossmember was no problem. Oh and the bolts for the splashsheild in the front (10mm) were rusted on my 12v Milwaukee impact wouldn't even spin them.
-BE VERY CAREFUL PUTTING THOSE BOLTS BACK IN! I f'd up one thead pretty bad, and kinda stripped another one.
Rear motor mount bracket. Whoever designed this is stupid. The top bolts are impossible to get at. I tried a pry bar and tried to bend and move things. There was too much metal.
So I got out my drill and drilled some holes in the corner to help flex it. Got the top left bolt out then. The top right one wasn't about to happen. Drilled a few more holes and figured it was far too time consuming. So I turned on the air compressor and got the (name slips me right now) punch on the impact gun. I made it look like swiss cheese and it still sucked to move. Go I get it out and got my dremel and cut the top portion of it off so I never have to mess with that **** again.
-Fun stuff, I had the world's smallest ratchet and one of my small friends (he weighs like 120) get back there and unbolt it if I'm remembering correctly, like I said via pm it was all a blur cause we were all low on sleep/hungry/tired.
The pipe for the egr was a ***** to break loose.
4 of the nuts came off with the studs. Putting the header back on the egr tube didn't line up for ****. Had my brother come over and help me out. He got it on and then had to use a 1" crows foot to tighten the egr on top of the manifold. The washer that is on the nut of the manifold hits the welds on the header. Awesome.
-EGR Delete = your friend, unless you have emissions to worry about.
Now for the heatshield. That wasn't that bad at all. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. I did NOT remove the UIM for this install however I HIGHLY recommend it for anyone else that plans on doing this.
If you look down between the firewall and back of the UIM you can see 2 bolts for the heatshield. You will need a long extension or in my case 3 extensions. Chances are they are rusted to **** so a 10mm will not work. Buy yourself a set of turbo sockets. I used one that was old and worn down (10mm turbo socket) and got one bolt off. The other I had to use a 3/8" turbo socket because it was in better shape.
Then from under the car I used a small wrench 3/8 and was able to break loose the 2 bolts and get the heatshield out in 1 piece. This saved a lot of time. Probably took me 30min for the heatshield.
-WHAT?! THIS LITERALLY TOOK ME HOURS?! Eventually I was able to cut in up in pieces so I could move it and get to the rear mani bolts, and it fell out when the rear mani came out.
BTW What on the power steering pump leaks on these cars? It's looking like it has been leaking slowly for a long time. And how hard is it to fix?
-I have one too, you can see it all over the hose, I will probably attend to it whenever I swap the motors, more room.
02-09-2011, 08:53 AM
#213
I was searching for egr delete but couldn't find much info on it. I was wondering how I can do it and pass emissions, but I decided to just leave it.
Next on my list is to finish the other corner of the brembo rotors and hawk pads. Then come summer time I'll look at the power steering fix and replacing the a/c line. God I hope those go easy.
Next on my list is to finish the other corner of the brembo rotors and hawk pads. Then come summer time I'll look at the power steering fix and replacing the a/c line. God I hope those go easy.
02-09-2011, 11:31 AM
#216
02-09-2011, 11:37 AM
#217
Lol, whenever I do something on my car there's always a fail involved, w/ my current 6spd swap project now the setbacks are all non 6spd swap related, which is annoying.....
Don't even know how to tackle it.
02-09-2011, 02:32 PM
#224
02-09-2011, 05:45 PM
#226
I noticed I have a lot of "gunk"/sludge on the hose coming from my PS reservoir and I think the pump or the bottom of the res. is leaking. I have had to top off the PS fluid a couple times in the last year or so.
Probly in the spring or summer i'll look into it more.
Probly in the spring or summer i'll look into it more.
02-09-2011, 07:03 PM
#227
Ok good news finally.
3 mexicans + a lift + prybar = a y pipe that fits. They threw it on the lift and fixed it, took them about an hour though. They said they fixed all the leaks, sounds loud for stock exhaust, maybe there is a teeny tiny leak but it's much better now. So one leak fixed and one more to go. When the guy was under the car looking power steering fluid dripped right center of his forehead. So that is next on the list of things to fix.
Ok the issue with this car is it HATES lights. A corner light doesn't work again. I tapped the light and it went on/off. And I put in a new map light bulb and it blew the fuse right away. This crap is getting old really quick. All I want is all my lights to work and not be burned out. ugh, frustrating. Is the end near with this car?
Finish the lights, fix the power steering leak and finish the brakes then she is done! I may look into replacing the balljoints and control arm bushings in the summer then I don't think I would have any other maintenance left.
Oh and the pipe still hits the bottom of the oil pan. Honestly I could care less as I don't plan on working on anything else besides fixing the leak and getting am/fm radio to work.
3 mexicans + a lift + prybar = a y pipe that fits. They threw it on the lift and fixed it, took them about an hour though. They said they fixed all the leaks, sounds loud for stock exhaust, maybe there is a teeny tiny leak but it's much better now. So one leak fixed and one more to go. When the guy was under the car looking power steering fluid dripped right center of his forehead. So that is next on the list of things to fix.
Ok the issue with this car is it HATES lights. A corner light doesn't work again. I tapped the light and it went on/off. And I put in a new map light bulb and it blew the fuse right away. This crap is getting old really quick. All I want is all my lights to work and not be burned out. ugh, frustrating. Is the end near with this car?
Finish the lights, fix the power steering leak and finish the brakes then she is done! I may look into replacing the balljoints and control arm bushings in the summer then I don't think I would have any other maintenance left.
Oh and the pipe still hits the bottom of the oil pan. Honestly I could care less as I don't plan on working on anything else besides fixing the leak and getting am/fm radio to work.
Last edited by Gamble; 02-09-2011 at 07:11 PM.
02-09-2011, 08:42 PM
#228
I don't think its the car burning the lights I think those crappy ebay leds are BS. I've had experience with them in the past and some of them don't last longer then a couple days! Check out vleds.com or superbrightleds.com like you did for the dash ( I bet those are still working )
)
02-09-2011, 09:21 PM
#229
Ok good news finally.
3 mexicans + a lift + prybar = a y pipe that fits. They threw it on the lift and fixed it, took them about an hour though. They said they fixed all the leaks, sounds loud for stock exhaust, maybe there is a teeny tiny leak but it's much better now. So one leak fixed and one more to go. When the guy was under the car looking power steering fluid dripped right center of his forehead. So that is next on the list of things to fix.
Ok the issue with this car is it HATES lights. A corner light doesn't work again. I tapped the light and it went on/off. And I put in a new map light bulb and it blew the fuse right away. This crap is getting old really quick. All I want is all my lights to work and not be burned out. ugh, frustrating. Is the end near with this car?
Finish the lights, fix the power steering leak and finish the brakes then she is done! I may look into replacing the balljoints and control arm bushings in the summer then I don't think I would have any other maintenance left.
Oh and the pipe still hits the bottom of the oil pan. Honestly I could care less as I don't plan on working on anything else besides fixing the leak and getting am/fm radio to work.
3 mexicans + a lift + prybar = a y pipe that fits. They threw it on the lift and fixed it, took them about an hour though. They said they fixed all the leaks, sounds loud for stock exhaust, maybe there is a teeny tiny leak but it's much better now. So one leak fixed and one more to go. When the guy was under the car looking power steering fluid dripped right center of his forehead. So that is next on the list of things to fix.
Ok the issue with this car is it HATES lights. A corner light doesn't work again. I tapped the light and it went on/off. And I put in a new map light bulb and it blew the fuse right away. This crap is getting old really quick. All I want is all my lights to work and not be burned out. ugh, frustrating. Is the end near with this car?
Finish the lights, fix the power steering leak and finish the brakes then she is done! I may look into replacing the balljoints and control arm bushings in the summer then I don't think I would have any other maintenance left.
Oh and the pipe still hits the bottom of the oil pan. Honestly I could care less as I don't plan on working on anything else besides fixing the leak and getting am/fm radio to work.
02-10-2011, 12:22 AM
#230
Upvoted
I also have a power steering leak.. I think mine is coming from the suction hose near the firewall, leaking on my o2 sensor and control arm.
Gamble, I'd double check for exhaust leaks. When I installed my y pipe there was only a very slight change in the exhaust tone and volume.
Gamble, I'd double check for exhaust leaks. When I installed my y pipe there was only a very slight change in the exhaust tone and volume.
02-10-2011, 04:45 AM
#232
183k miles to me doesnt constitute alot of miles on a manual transmission..they should be made to last forever, in essence. on my 88 toyota pickup i had close to 300k miles on it before i got rid of it and i only changed the clutch ONCE....nissan ftl. i would never buy one again...even though i like the 350 and Gs
02-10-2011, 07:14 AM
#233
I don't think its the car burning the lights I think those crappy ebay leds are BS. I've had experience with them in the past and some of them don't last longer then a couple days! Check out vleds.com or superbrightleds.com like you did for the dash ( I bet those are still working )
)It sounds like a tiny leak I'll have to double check, but it's a lot better now.
02-10-2011, 08:12 AM
#236
02-13-2011, 06:02 PM
#238
Oh evap code came back I see, you probably need to change the evap purge valve located on the evap canister under the driver side rear tire. I had replaced the canister but never replaced the valve which is most likely stuck. I had sprayed it with wd40 to get it back moving (thats a fix here in the stickys for evap codes).