Fuel Pump Kill Switch
02-03-2011, 04:04 PM
#1
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Fuel Pump Kill Switch
Im gonna be heading to college in the near future and figured it's a really good idea to invest in a kill switch. Better safe than sorry. The best place from what i understand is to wire it to the fuel pump power wire. Apparently it is black with a yellow stripe? Can anyone confirm that, and confirm where it is located?
Edit: I think I found it, is it bundled with the wires under the rear drivers seat?
Edit: I think I found it, is it bundled with the wires under the rear drivers seat?
Last edited by 95Maxed; 02-03-2011 at 07:57 PM.
02-03-2011, 07:52 PM
#2
Im gonna be heading to college in the near future and figured it's a really good idea to invest in a kill switch. Better safe than sorry. The best place from what i understand is to wire it to the fuel pump power wire. Apparently it is black with a yellow stripe? Can anyone confirm that, and confirm where it is located?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...cs-inside.html
02-03-2011, 07:55 PM
#3
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cant help you there but i do have this old school inhibitor i will let go for the cost of shipping
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...cs-inside.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...cs-inside.html
02-03-2011, 07:57 PM
#4
all good just rather see it go to someone that might be able to use it not tryin to make a buck its just sittin in the garage but i agree a hiddin kill switch is a good route to take
02-03-2011, 08:00 PM
#5
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02-04-2011, 12:45 AM
#7
does anyone know if these would work for such a switch..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...445+&viewitem=
or
http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Rais.../dp/B001TL3XXA
whats the current rating is required for such an application?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...445+&viewitem=
or
http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Rais.../dp/B001TL3XXA
whats the current rating is required for such an application?
02-04-2011, 02:28 AM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 219
Yes and no... but 'work' in this case is relative. I would not use either.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
02-04-2011, 04:03 AM
#9
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Pulling the fuse is a hassle and isnt as cool when you wanna start the car and you have friends with you haha. Seriously though, I think a switch is safer.
Um... was that aimed at me? B/c I only asked if the wire I found was the correct one....
Yes and no... but 'work' in this case is relative. I would not use either.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
02-04-2011, 11:35 AM
#11
Yes and no... but 'work' in this case is relative. I would not use either.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
You cannot just go screwing with electrical systems in your car. They are designed very specifically for safety purposes. Since you had to ask, better not do it yourself IMO. That said... GL
First off if you put an inline switch you have to correctly rate the switch for the load needed. That latching switch would not hold 12+ amps. (You could always grab a multimeter and test it. I am going off my Z car.) A momentary switch, the second, would NOT work (at all) in the manner you asked. THIS IS NOT the correct way of setting up the desired circuit. Lastly bringing an outside line in, soldering, then back out is a PITA.
The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method. Latching to use when you chose, momentary every time you wanted to start the car.
Again, the fact that you had to ask would tell me that you do not have the experience to install this. In the case you do choose to: Solder all connection, use correct insulation and shrink wrap all points, use proper ga wire, and be safe.
Youre right, i dont have the experience.. I was hoping to find people that have done such a mod and are willing to pass on the experience to those who haven't.
Another concern i had was that someone had told me in case of a major accident the fuel gets cut off and adding a switch might now allow the automatic shutoff of the pump if you were in a really bad accident and the car was upside down leaking fuel or in similar situations!
Same kind of switch could be used to tie into the ignition switch??
That maybe a lil safer no? Anyway thanks for your input ..
I dont exactly know what you mean by in series but thanks for your input as well..
02-04-2011, 12:57 PM
#12
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Also by "in series" he means cut the wire, solder one side to a new wire, to a switch, then back to the other fuel wire. He means to say the circuit still continues as if nothing was tampered with.
02-04-2011, 03:28 PM
#13
Hey thanks for explaining i think i know what you mean..
With youre analogy it seems it would just be better to go with the fuel cut off but do our cars have some kind of auto fuel cut off that occurs when there is an accident??
With youre analogy it seems it would just be better to go with the fuel cut off but do our cars have some kind of auto fuel cut off that occurs when there is an accident??
02-04-2011, 09:41 PM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 219
98maximadriver - You already have a fuel cut-off relay (as it sounds you understand this). That being the case, all you are doing is adding an additional switch to that circuit. Instead of putting it on the fuel pump/engine side of that relay, you are putting it on the ignition side. Thus if the switch is not engaged no fuel pump/start.
I can draw you a picture if you want... not as an insult, I mean it literally. Or if you are looking for a different option I can help you with that also.
I think you should re-consider doing this. Just buy RKE with immobilizer. Bottom line, if someone wants your car bad enough they will get it switch or otherwise.
I can draw you a picture if you want... not as an insult, I mean it literally. Or if you are looking for a different option I can help you with that also.
I think you should re-consider doing this. Just buy RKE with immobilizer. Bottom line, if someone wants your car bad enough they will get it switch or otherwise.
02-04-2011, 10:04 PM
#15
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No reason to reconsider, I installed mine tonight. You literally cannot see the switch even when staring at it. It is very easy to flip on and off from the drivers seat and only someone who knows where it is can find it. ALL my wiring is hidden and the car does not run when the switch is flipped off.
02-04-2011, 10:11 PM
#16
Hey adroitcaptor thanks for the input ... I do realize that if someone really want your car they can take it or tow it or... But i do think layers of security is an option worth the trouble.. Plus ive always heard of people doing such a thing and always wanted to do so myself.
What are the cons to such an approach?? Cant hurt eh..
and oh yeah.. a picture is worth a thousand words so if you are up to it..
Especially detailing the part where you said:
"The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method."
You got pictures? lol
Make like phmor and bust out some vidz!!
Oh and what gauge wire you use? and what you use for insulation? Did you shrink wrap!
What are the cons to such an approach?? Cant hurt eh..
and oh yeah.. a picture is worth a thousand words so if you are up to it..
Especially detailing the part where you said:
"The correct way is to use the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay. This will prevent you from having to use a high power switch inline... which would only be asking for problems. You can actually use either switch with this method."
No reason to reconsider, I installed mine tonight. You literally cannot see the switch even when staring at it. It is very easy to flip on and off from the drivers seat and only someone who knows where it is can find it. ALL my wiring is hidden and the car does not run when the switch is flipped off.
You got pictures? lol
Make like phmor and bust out some vidz!!
Oh and what gauge wire you use? and what you use for insulation? Did you shrink wrap!
Last edited by 98MaximaDriver; 02-04-2011 at 10:15 PM.
02-04-2011, 10:19 PM
#17
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Well I dont wanna say where I placed the switch lol, that would defeat the purpose. But you do this.
1. Remove rear seat bottom.
2. Find bundled wires that lead to center of middle seat.
3. Slice Bundle.
4. Find Black and Yellow wire and cut it.
5. Solder 2 wires to a on off switch and solder the other ends of the wires to the Black and Yellow wire.
(obviously you would run the wires before soldering anything.)
I had run my wires under the carpet, and used an exacto knife to slice a small exit hole for me to continue the wires to their desired place. All in all, it took about an hour, but that was going slow.
1. Remove rear seat bottom.
2. Find bundled wires that lead to center of middle seat.
3. Slice Bundle.
4. Find Black and Yellow wire and cut it.
5. Solder 2 wires to a on off switch and solder the other ends of the wires to the Black and Yellow wire.
(obviously you would run the wires before soldering anything.)
I had run my wires under the carpet, and used an exacto knife to slice a small exit hole for me to continue the wires to their desired place. All in all, it took about an hour, but that was going slow.
02-04-2011, 10:25 PM
#18
LoL @ "Well I dont wanna say where I placed the switch"
what gauge wires you use? and what current rating for your switch!
Did you do it all proper with insulation and shrink wrapping!?
And thanks for saying the color or the wire to cut.. "black and yellow"
I wanna see what adroitcaptor has to say about using the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay.. i dunno what he mean by that!
what gauge wires you use? and what current rating for your switch!
Did you do it all proper with insulation and shrink wrapping!?
And thanks for saying the color or the wire to cut.. "black and yellow"
I wanna see what adroitcaptor has to say about using the switch on the ignition side of the fuel pump relay.. i dunno what he mean by that!
Last edited by 98MaximaDriver; 02-04-2011 at 10:28 PM.
02-04-2011, 10:28 PM
#19
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I used a 20 amp switch I think.
Yes, I heat wrapped the connections, and zip tied the wires down. It would look stock to anyone who didnt know.
02-04-2011, 10:36 PM
#21
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Its no more than 5 amps probably. I asked the guy at the hobby store and he said that 16 gauge and a 20 amp switch would be fine. I also had searched the forums and came up with the same answer.
02-05-2011, 11:50 AM
#22
I would wire one into the clutch position sensor that would normally not allow you to start the car if the clutch was not depressed. If you wire into this, the car won't start because it doesn't see the clutch as depressed.
02-05-2011, 01:42 PM
#25
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12-22-2011, 10:36 PM
#26
from post #8: i agree that the low voltage side is the place to put your switch but the poster seems to say that a momentary switch can be used if on this relay coil side of the circuit but this would mean that the fuel pump relay is latching (ie stays on once activated) is this the case? i mean, is the fuel pump relay latching and you can use a momentary switch on this low voltage coil side of the circuit?
thanks
thanks
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