Hey all, a couple of things here i'd like to address.

1. Vibration during idle. When the car gets warmed up and i stop at a stop light/sign, etc, the car vibrates and the idle RPM fluctuates and tends to drop. If i put the car into neutral this will stop. Possible causes i read: coil packs, fuel injectors, MAF, vacuum leaks somewhere.

2. The other day i decided to take off my cone filter and put back on the stock airbox. Anyways, got everything put together right except for one thing. I forgot to hook up my MAF when i first started the car and so i gave it some gas to back out of the garage/driveway it died. Then i realized my stupid mistake and hooked it back up, started right up and drove fine and everything but my check engine light came on.

Now here is where we are at: I did the self diagnostic and it gave me those two codes, 0304 and 0504 (Knock sensor and AT control line i believe?) Could these be related to running for >1 minute with MAF disconnected?

After i did the diagnostic i took the key out and whatnot and then started the car. Started fine and CEL was off for a while, then it came back on. I drove for a bit and everything felt normal, this was just some light city driving. Later that day i got out on the highway for about 45 minutes which took me up to around 65 mph and still everything felt fine. At this point though the CEL got funny. Sometimes it would flash fast, sometimes it would flash slow, sometimes it would just stay on. Through all of this the car felt as though it was driving just fine. I have not checked codes since then, however. I will try and do that tomorrow to see if anything has changed. However, after putting back in the stock airbox, the idle vibration is gone. This leads me to believe that the culprit was a vacuum leak. Anyways...i had also read that these two codes can both be due to bad voltage or something like that? I think my battery is good, but i know one of the connectors is sorta sketchy. It works and starts fine and everything, but if it were not getting the optimal voltage or something out of it i wouldn't be surprised.

So now: If the codes are 0304 and 0504, are these urgent? I have about a 6 hour drive ahead of me tomorrow to get back to college....Any possible solutions? Think these codes are accurate or related to something else, perhaps?

Sorry to ramble here. Any help will be appreciated.

 

as soon as u started the car with the maf unplugged it would throw the code reset the ecu with the maf plugged in and code should be gone the auto tranny code u have i can not help u there since im a 5 speed

did u leave the ecu in dionostic mode meaning did u turn the screw back after retrivin the codes

 

So you are saying the MAF unplugged would have caused the knock sensor code?

 

ks usualy comes up with other codes im sorry miss read ur post i thought u had a code for maf yeah if u have a ks code prolly means its bad the quick flashing then slow flashing of the check engine light is prolly caused by the ecu bein still in dionostic mode

 

Ah right. I'll go do codes tomorrow morn. But also as far as i've known it's still using the original one so it very well may have went bad too. We'll see

 

u have to turn that screw back after u check the codes

ks sensor will effect gas milage and performace of the car as it tells the ecu to advance or retard the timing

 

Yep. I drive from home to college and vice versa every now and then and the most recent time i felt like i got worse mileage. However i think this was because there was a slight leak with my MAF adapter/cone filter fixture. This weekend i drove to and from a camp about 45 minutes away (highway), first time with cone filter, 2nd time without. 2nd time got much better mileage. So i am assuming that was from the leak or whatever.

 

Hey Guys--I'd like to address the battery while we're here. Is there a safe way to check the voltage coming from the battery? Multimeter i'd assume? I have access to one, but i don't really know how to use it too well. What's the voltage supposed to be? I'm pretty new with this stuff and am looking to learn, even if that's not the issue. Thank you.

I don't want to beat a dead horse, but i'd like to see what you all think about the vibration. As far as i know, it's gone, but i haven't had to do nearly as much stop-and-go driving as i previously did when i first noticed it. Was i right in thinking that it was just a vacuum leak? My MAF adapter plate (to attach a cone filter) had a very very small gap between the plate and MAF in one corner (>1/32") and i put the stock airbox back on and so far so good, like i said. But i'm still a little concerned. Think it's worth taking to a shop to check coil packs or anything, or just wait and see if anything new develops? Thanks again.

 

 

cool dude