Ok im stuck on what i should go with,as of now i have the stock 16 with 225/50s. So the other day i was on the freeway and i was beat buy a stock civic because i figure 1 my tires and 2 my car is not lowered for the turns, i could feel the car rolling in the turn as if the back end wated to fishtail.

I figured now i should go with the adjustable suspension and do eibach springs.
Now i thought i would go with a 17" in a 235/45 but im starting to thing i will still have a huge gap
Now if i do the 18" will i lose traction and what tire size is good for that.

 

you should buy my 17s from my 5th gen

 

With 225/45R17 tires and 17" rims, the Eibach pro kit makes the car sit perfectly, IMO. 17" wheels are also lighter than 18" ones, so that minimizes unsprung weight. Additionally tires will be cheaper. To further reduce body roll, you can replace the trailing arm bushing with polyurethane ones.

 

Are those it in the sig

 

17s...not 19s...lol

http://forums.maxima.org/wheels-tire...se-wheels.html

*edit* 19s are sold

 

Im looking for a 5 spoke with a 3" to 4" lip

 

may wana go 18s at least w/ that sort of setup...thought you were searching for a 17" stockie wheel or something in that area.

 

U def need to drop it. Handling is sooooo much better. Body lean goes wayyyyy down. Im on HRs and Blues and its quite sick. Even with 4 ppl in the whip, sub and tools in the trunk, car handles like a dream.

Adjustables are only good if u plan on hitting the track. THey allow you to go soft for the street or go stiff for track. If u dont plan on doin 120 mph on a track every wknd, jus get non-adjustables and save your money. tokico FTW. Eibach is a track spring too. HR or maxspeed for the street.

Once u drop it, then consider new wheels. I know i am

EDIT:

I wdnt go no less than 45 tire depth. Any lower degrades ride quality and more potential damage to the rims.

 

My opinion is that either your engine is broken or you were not pressing the gas pedal beyond the 3000 rpms. My I30 can't be beaten by a Civic. It flies.
And there is one more variable in the equation, but you can't fix that.

 

^ What he said

No amount of suspension is going to help you if your car isn't running right.

 

street racing FTMFL!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I got smoked by a oldsmobile alero 2 wks ago .

In fairness, i was at a full stop and he was already speeding by me. I was so surprised, i jus gunned 2nd gear. However by this time it was too late.

 

Just a thought, one that I was considering until a friend hooked me up with discountinued wheels.

You can get reproduction wheels, like of a 350Z or the new Maxis that will fit the 5 lug pattern on the 4th gen, and they make them in 17 and 18" sizes.

The Wheel Warehouse - Nissan OEM

 

Hey J,
I live in the mountains of SC fixing to slam the 4th gen 2" drop and 18" rims. If you want, give me a few weeks and I will give you my 2 cents from first hand experience.

 

go w 20" for look

 

or 17" for perf

 

20s, dang, i can only imagine how much tires are, they are already almost $200 each for the 235/45r18s

 

I was gettin him on the st8 away but soon as i hit the corners that was my downplay, i could feel the car losing its handling. i felt like i was driven a buick

 

Hook that up with the feedback

 

20" really? now that would be a bit too much. Maxima not a Chevy

 

No doubt the Maxi is a heavy full size sedan, so dropping it will definitely help. A lower center of gravity will help with the force exerted, but still stock tires aren't made for extreme handling. You do need to do rims and a good set of wide tires. The more rubber on the pavement, the less you will loose traction, but also, keep in mind that the Civics don't have near the weight we carry either. thats like comparing a s2000 and a altima, both great cars, but one has a significant weight advantage. If you can afford, coilovers, front and rear upper strut bars, and then there are lower traction control arms you can get, but they aint cheap.

 

Im just touching to surface on learning about Maximas so what are coilovers and what is their purpose?

 

Not true, it will also depend on the springs.
Since most setups dont match spring rates with the struts dampening rates, adjustables help achieve a nicer ride.

 

Honestly, if your really concerned about handeling and performance stay with a 16" wheel in a wider width and run some wider tires. Get a good suspension setup, including LCA and etc. and then look into some subframe connectors.
How do you know the civic was stock?

 

4th gen JIC Coilover System

Coilovers are struts that are pre-threaded with coils installed and give you adjustability "on the fly" of ride height both in front and back. Thought spending this type of money with also doing things like strut tower bar, and other suspension and steering upgrades some say is not worth it.

And yes I agree ^^^ a good set of adjustable struts make all the difference too.

 

Yeah if having to stop, and remove your wheels to adjust the ride height is considered on the fly.


Most coilovers give you the ability to adjust dampening, camber, as well as height.

 

Ouch I felt the sting of that one all the way in West LA!

 

Well maybe it wasn't but I still was winning until I hit turns

 

but unlike with lowering springs, ur not given a choice of ride height at all.

 

PM'd you OP.

 

18's from a Murano will bolt right up and give it an updated but factory look. But that's just me.

 

I was told for a 4th gen, the n/a 300z wheels are ideal because theyre 16's and can handle a good wheel size. I currently have the 15's for gle, what do yall think?

 

So this isn't lowered

 

It's lowered I have ebaichs with tokiko blues. Also I gotta progressive rear swaybar on the way!

 

No J2songz, it has a 2" drop. Sorry, it was in the sig but not in the post itself.

 

I went with a 19 inch setup.

 

I'm going with 18s after i get the maxi out the shop. 188k miles and have never had it tuned or anything, so why not while he is working on the steering.

 

They are also boat anchors.

 

I would like to help the few sensible people in this thread yank this “debate” back to reality...

None of what you discussed is going to 'fix' your 'issue'.

Really, there could have been a lot of work done to that civic without you knowing.

I have not ever lost to a stock civic; not in the turns or in a straight line. To put some validity to this statement I attended Portland Street Nights at PIR (1/4 mi only) almost every night it was running for two years. I also drove/drive 35 miles to work every day over a mountain pass. I have met and beat countless cars in my maxima. To name a few - a Z06 vette, porsche carrera AWD TT. Does this mean that my maxima is faster or has better performance? LOL … obviously not. It means I have been driving this road for 14 years, I am a [imho] great driver, and most of all, I know my car.

All of this is significant as my 97 maxi is pretty much stock. Stock 16” nissan alloys, on stock diameter tires (tourevos), with stock (original actually) springs and shocks (220kmi atm). If you do not think that I have an excess of body roll then you need to gtfo the .org. What I am saying is the least likely problem is your maxima.

I really do not agree with the majority on this wheel diameter issue. It is all relative. Just as none of you are going to shoot my rifle at its sub .5MoA potential. 99% of the population couldn't tell the difference from one rim to another as far as feel goes. That said, the REAL issue is tires. Consider your sidewall, grip, and wear.

In Summery - If you are serious about modding your car:
Get good rubber, not decent GOOD. My tires are 300 a piece.
If you are going to get new rims for the purpose of performance spend money that makes sense. Do not buy a boat anchor... get a light rim, 17” is best in my subjective opinion.
Basic mods will make a 'big' difference.
Have fun; who cares who beats you? If you are having fun/learning then there should be no issue imo.