ls1forlife

Hello,

I just replaced my alternator, idler pulley and alternator belt yesterday, and now i am having really bad cold starting issues. Only when its cold. It will crank for 7-10 second before it starts. I normally do about four 3-5 second long bursts and then it will start. It runs and drives amazing! and when it is warm, its starts right away. I had starting issues before and i cleaned my tb and iac, and it seemed to fix it...but now i do not know what to do. My battery seems fine and has plenty of juice to turn the motor over fast and stong, but it will not run...any suggestions? I was thinking my coolant temp sensor, but the gauge reads fine? possible a fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump relay? I cant imagine what happened, i just swapped the alternator, belt, pulley and cleaned my battery terminals and now it has this really bad cold start issue

Any suggestions? Thank you all so much for even reading this!

silencecalls

iTrader: (2)

Any codes? Any strange noises?

ls1forlife

i do not know if there are any codes. i have 2 permanent codes from when i swapped it to a 5spd 3 years ago. I guess i could get it scanned again...no noises, and it does run and drive very well, except cold starts...i just swapped the alt. and now this...i do not know what to think...

thanks for looking!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You still could have a sensor problem because the engine has 2 temperature sensors. One that the ECU uses for everything and one that is only used to run the dash gauge.

ls1forlife

i did not know that, thank you! i am going to check all my sensors with a multi meter, so if they are all within spec, i can eliminate that. I just swapped the alt. I dont know why its doing this, it didnt do it before....

thanks for your help everyone!

silencecalls

iTrader: (2)

Do scan then codes, if you have a permanent CEL on, it could hide any new codes that might pop up.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The 2 sensors are located next to each other, maybe 3 inches back from where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. The one closer to the front of the car is for the dash gauge and has one wire attached to it. The one closer to the rear is the one used by the ECU, called the "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor". It has 2 wires on it.

You need to test the resistance at certain temperatures, not just open or short.

2.1 to 2.9K ohm @ 68°
0.68 to 1.0 K ohm @ 122°
0.236 to 0.260 @ 194°

ls1forlife

today i checked the cam shaft position sensor, air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, fast idle cam. all seemed to be within spec per the haynes manual. My tb is clean as a whistle too. It seems as if it is not firing for the first 10-15 seconds, because i can smell gas. I will be checking the crankshaft position sensors next. And just for the sheer hell of it, im going to try my optima red top battery out of my ws6.


On a side note, i replaced the alternator with a 125amp reman alt. I have a 95 GLE with a 5 spd swap. Should I be using a 110amp alternator?

ls1forlife

it ended up being the extra ground i put on the transmission. i just unhooked it from the trans and it started wonderfully every single time.

Thanks for all your help!

cashoit

thats weird...if i remove my extra ground my car starts to hard start.

Either way, glad u running man.

ls1forlife

i can not explain it....i never thought too much grounding would be a issue...

thank you! me too!

ls1forlife

yesterday i had some issue as well not as bad, but i believe its this ground issue. i going to ground the transmission directly to the battery. and the transmission directly to the frame. Right now i just have the ground from battery to the frame and to the head. so well see...

ls1forlife

I also just replaced my clutch and i read that there is a ground inside the transmission? can some one clarify this? I pretty much have a few harness grounds and then from the batt to the frame and head on my car. should i have others? is there any recommended add on grounds?

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

there is a tiny slip clip ground on the tranny that goes to the frame.

i recommend that u clean the ground going to the block then clean the surface of one of the starter bolt holes.and add a ground from neg on battery to the well sanded area.

if u just had a clutch job done who ever did it didnt sand the mating surface of the trans and engine thats where ur issue is

when i say clean i mean sand or use a wire brush

ls1forlife

I cleaned both surfaces very well, but this slip clip? i know nothing of this? could you explain it? I will definitely ground that starter bolt better.

thank you

ls1forlife

I have a 5spd that i swapped in. I do not think i have any ground clip or any ground anything for that matter. Should i have something?

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

hers a pic of the slip clip ground i was reffering to this thing just slips on the connector anis grounded to the frame of the car

this is lookin at the top of the trans hope it helps

ls1forlife

thank you so much! that is such a big help! i am going to tear into it tonight!

ls1forlife

so now it sounds as if the starter pinion isnt making contact with the fly wheel and is just spinning. I pulled it apart and the flywheel seems fine (its brand new). i bench tested the starter with my car's battery and the pinion is popping out and spinning. I do not know what to do. car has been down for way too long

ls1forlife

i also put a 12v test light on the harness that clips into the solenoid and it lights up when i hit the starter position with the key. its getting juice to the starter as well. even when i arc the starter still seems like pinion still isnt popping out...