Ive posted my problem before but this thing is confusing me.

My 95 max has a cyl 5 misfire ive replaced coil, plugs, and injector.

Cel codes are ks, cyl 5 mis, and ignition primary.

I put the injector in this morning and put everything back together. Started the car ran fine. I knew i was forgetting to plug something in so while trying to figure it out i decided to pull the plug on the coil. Cyl died. Pluged back in and cyl fired like it should.

I figured out my maf was unpluged so i plug it in and the misfire came back.

Would a bad maf cause a misfire?

It just seems wierd to me

Any suggestions guys?

 

I'm going to say that the same problem that is causing the Ignition Primary code is cause the misfire, and I doubt it's the MAF. Considering the parts you've replaced, I would say the cabling is next in line for scrutiny.

 

Cable meaning the harness to the coils?

 

Its always a good idea to replace all the coils at the same time. even if one goes out, yea its alot of $$$ but a new one can cause one of the old ones to go out..

 

Already done. Its not the coil replaced all swapped around.

Im really wondering why when my maf is unplugged the cyl fires and when its plugged up the cyl misses.

 

i had the same problem, my problem was that i didnt tighten my spark plugs to spec, maybe you are having the same problem, check if you tighten your spark plugs, hope this helps.

 

Problem occured before i changed my plugs.

Before the plug change it was cyl 2 misfire

Then the day i changed the plugs it went to a multiple misfire.

Then after plugs and coils were changed it was cyl 5 misfire.

Changed the injector on that cyl and thats when i noticed the car runs perfect at start up and idle with maf unplugged.

Im down to the point of selling it i dont have to much more money in my pocket to play with and im getting fed up and po'd with this car.

 

Do you think the ignition primary code could have come from you having the engine running while a coil was unplugged? I noticed that you said the misfire change from cyl 2 to cyl 5. If the cabling was the problem, I don't think this would happen.

Maybe the real problem is the MAF. If the ECU is getting erroneous information about the air going into the engine, that could cause a misfire. I had mine go out on me and I was having problems long before it threw a MAF code.

Would it be possible for you to clear the codes, and run the car, without disconnecting anything to see what code come back? That way we can rule out any code that doesn't come back. Maybe drive it around a bit. Try do drive it in two cycles because the ECU has what Nissan calls "Two Trip Detection Logic". This basically means that the ECU requires some faults to be detected twice before it throws a code. So if you drive it a little bit, and turn it off, and drive some more, that should satisfy the two trip requirement.

EDIT: A faulty condenser can cause the Ignition Primary code and misfires. You can check it with a multimeter in resistance mode. It should start off with a low resistance, and should increase in resistance as the capacitor inside the condenser charges. Also a dirty CRANK REF sensor can cause this code. This is the sensor on the crank pulley. Make sure there are no metal pieces stuck to it.

 

Everything was plugged up.

The codes came on while driving and i had them cleared

Same codes come right back

A nissan service tech told me the maf would cause a multiple. Idk i put it on craiglist and vadriven last night.

 

A bad MAF would cause a lot more than jus a misfire on one cylinder. U would have stalling, hesitating, chugging, misfires.

I think u need to check compression on that cyl. AND u need to check the Camshaft position sensor is workin. THe Crankshaft position sensor tranny side also detects misfires so check that as well.


Check the classifieds. A used maf is like 50 bucks. Worth a shot

 

Ya thats what the service tech told me about the maf

Im gonna check the cam sensor later this evening its just to f'n hot right now lol

I found a tested maf on ebay thats about 100 mi away for 10 bucks i contacted the guy earlier this morning. His bids end in a few hours so i got his num. If he dont sell it im gonna go pick it up tomorrow. If everything else checks out ok.

I also found a mechanic that told me hed do a diagnotic on it for $30 bucks and said i can help him fix it and he'll only charge me the $30 so im just trying to find some free time

 

like it was stated earlier, I would do a compression check too. I know it's not likley but that also can throw a misfire code.

Also if you are going to sell the car is it a five speed? I am in your area.

 

No its a auto.