AJE

Anyone else on here done the timing case orings with the engine still in the car? The stud for the engine mount doesn't have enough clearance between the fender to get the inner case off. The only way I got it was to remove the water pump (got me about a 1/2" closer) and then rotate the inner cover almost upside down and then it just barely came free.

With only the right side mount off, I tried jacking the engine up as high as it would go and lowering it all the way, but that stud is really in the way. Is there anyway to take that sucker off? I'm sure I can get the cover back on but not without messing up the RTV. Maybe I will have to RTV some of it after getting it back over the stud?

Any advice appreciated!
Thanks, AJE

AJE

Here is the stud:







And yes, I know the CV boot is torn

SuperSlow_max

pull the engine out

AJE

Thanks, I'll remember that "next time."

Remminator

iTrader: (1)

I hate to say it, but it will be much easier to pull the engine, and you will have a much better view and space to work. It's not that hard to pull the engine.

P.S. you can take out that stud by clamping a vice grips on there really freaking tight and twisting it out. I had same problem, out of the car.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Use 2 nuts jammed together and put a boxend wrench on the inside nut to unscrew the stud. When replacing the cover, place the stud in the cover with rtv holding it in place.

doctaroofy

Yes, I've been trying to figure this out too.

AJE

Thanks for the replies. Ended up tying ropes to the p/s and a/c lines to hold them back as far as possible, then after lots of practice and perfecting just the right angles I was able to get it in and over the stud without smearing the RTV. Lets hope that RTV does the trick, I'm not going to want to do this job again anytime soon.

Another note for anyone who comes across this thread, if you happen to bump the pin holding the spring and guide on the front cam chain tensioner and they go flying PUT THEM BACK IN BEFORE PUTTING THE REAR COVER ON. Once the cover is on there isn't enough clearance to get them back in, found this out the hard way...cost me a few precious hours to redo, way too much RTV to clean off and reapply, not to mention the 25 screws to remove clean and re-torque. OUCH

DBear

AJE--

Why did you pull it, to fix an oil leak? If yes, where were you getting the drips? I've been getting a leak that seems to be coming from around the oil pump, and I fear I'm in for the same job.

AJE

Yeah, hoping to fix an oil leak. I was getting the worst drips from near the oil filter, which as high up as I could follow it up looked to be driping from the end bolt of the exhaust manifold. I also had a ton of oil covering my alternator and ac compressor on the front. I have read on here about the orings between the rear timing case and the block, but after getting in there it looked more like the RTV seals around the bottom of the cams.

The old orings were flat compared to the nice new round ones, so they could definately have been leaking as well but the most worst was definately coming from right above the water pump where it seals below the cam.

DBear

Let us know if it that solves the leak.

AJE

Yes, I am happy to say the oil leak is fixed.

DBear

Glad to hear it. How long did it take you?

AJE

I hate to admit, but probably ~40 hours? I hit a few snags that ate up lots of time, but I could probably do it again in half that. Learned a lot about my car, that is for sure.

DBear

Ouch. But I know the feeling. It took me about 2 hours to figure out how to replace the PCV valve on my Durango. Now I could do it in less than 10 moinutes.