96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

Day 1:

I had a clutch leak from the bottom line that runs to the slave cylinder, after replacing it was impossible to put in gear without forcing it into gear. They said my car was 'ready' but it was clearly not. The tech had driven my car around to test it in this shape stating that it was like this 'because of knock-off my short shifter'. I disagree because I've never felt my trans shift this rough. However, hydraulic pressure seems fine after bleeding.

Day 2:

They convince me I need a new clutch due to these issues. After bleeding for an hour or so, I still could not get into gear without forcing it. I left the car at the shop since I don't have time anymore to do the work myself. So I gave the go-ahead to replace the clutch.

Day 3:

I go into the shop to pick up the max. New OEM Nissan clutch, pressure plate, resurfaced flywheel and new TO bearing all installed. Trans feels the same, rough shifting especially 1, 2 and 3 gears. The pedal is sooo soft it feels like I barely touch the pedal to get it to the floor and I can barely feel the enagement point but it is roughly 2/3 to the floor to engage.

I refused to pay and left my car at the shop because I still don't think this feels right! My clutch has never been this soft! The office guy said this is how NEW clutches feel. I've never felt any clutch this soft! I talked about adjusting the pedal to gain more Resistance when pedal pushing, and he said I cant adjust the rod to the master anymore without riding the clutch the whole time.

I don't know what to do at this point. I never take my car to shops. In fact, I've swapped trans in the past so I'm not a noob to the issues. I just don't know if I'm going crazy or this is how it should be! Please advise!!

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

Furthermore, I'm so upset at this point I feel like such an idiot for taking my car there I am boarder-line considering crying. I haven't cried in about 9 years and I don't want to even drive my car in this condition.

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

Someone else had the same problem other day of fighting gears and pedal feeling funny, only to find out that it was the fork that was busted up and needed replacing. Its possible that they went straight to replacing all that other stuff and didn't even check other stuff like the fork and TO bearing while being down there. See thread below.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-when-hot.html

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Do they know there are two bleeders? You still have air in the line. If they can't do it right take it somewhere else. Go to police if need be and settle on a price for a halfa$$ed job.

QT1 5MT AE

iTrader: (6)

did the shop mess with the fluid line at all? if so my money is on that. use both bleeders to bleed.
after that my money would be on the fork.

whatever you do, dont pay em a dime. it don't matter how many hours of labor they claim they deserve to be paid for. job not done = no pay.

kinda off topic. make sure you use 75w-90 gl4, either amsoil or redline. stay away from GL5 oils that meet GL4 requirements. just a heads up

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

I saw that thread the other day and thought about that. Everything from the exterior of the trans looks fine in reference to fork play and returning to its place. I didn't ask about how the inside of the fork looked(I doubt they even checked considering the other issues). It is a 2001 trans with 60K on it, I swapped in about 3 years ago, at that point the fork looked 100%.

That is an idea for sure. I always bleed lower(slave) first then upper. These techs didn't even know that was an upper bleeder!

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

Yes, that's why I left my car there to be bled more. I think they didn't bleed enough. I swear last time we swapped a max it took roughly 3 days and hours of bleeding/pedal adjustment to finally get it right.

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

Fluid line, clutch lines, yes. I think they suck at bleeding! One tech didn't even know there were two bleeders!

As for gear oil-----Only 75w-90 GL4 AMSOIL. Dropped off 5 quarts myself.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Be sure to return the clutch parts they've installed.

cashoit

Too soft? Adjust the pedal engagement point.

i need to adjust mine right now. I push maybe 1/3 to 1/2 on the clutch pedal and its completely disengaged.

OP, can u describe what u mean its rough shifting 1,2 & 3. Do u mean u have to force the car into gear?

I had a new clutch and it shifted smooth as silk. They fawked something up.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

False, your pedal adjustment will not affect the stiffness, i've had mine adjusted both up and down because I thought it was the adjustment, but it did not fix my stiffness problem because of the leak in the line.

Rough shifting because the clutch is probably not disengaging all of the way.

Changing a clutch does not involve fooling with the hydrulics, no re-bleeding should be necessary so your pedal feel should not matter (might change because of the PP).

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

Well they did change the upper line from the slave cylinder. Thats why they had to bleed. What I mean is that replacing that line SHOULD have fixed the problem, everything seems normal hydralically now that the line has been replaced.

When I changed my transmission I can distinctly remember adjusting the pedal rod to change engagement point and it seemed to stiffen the pedal...but maybe it was all the bleeding as well.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

When replacing the lines I always reccomend to get a full SS clutch line from RTL or something like that from ebay it's around $40 shipped and it deletes the upper bleeder, makes bleeding muuuuuuuuch faster.

Anywho, the shop should have a vacuum, they should be using it to vacuum bleed your lines to help speed along the process.

QT1 5MT AE

iTrader: (6)

also some clutches are very soft when you first install them and then they gradually get stiffer. this is what i felt with my exedy stage 1. it was softer than stock at first but after a few days it became significantly stiffer than stock. just not sure if its suppose to be as soft as you say it is.

cashoit

Im not getting what u guys mean by "too soft". U guys saying that the pedal feels like the line has air in it? for instance, u press the pedal and there doesnt feel like there is much line pressure??

If thats the case and u have replaced lines and slave...dont forget to check the master cylinder, then look at the shift fork

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Datz what I'm talkin' bout cash mang, my clutch didn't go hard enough for me, it needed dat viagra nomsayin?

Gave it dat good ol SS line treatment and some techron n dat bish and it's been fine since!

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

^^^^^I think this is the case, on top of them not bleeding my clutch enough. I picked my car up yesterday and the pedal had somewhat better resistence. This experience has has been a reminder why NOT to ever take my car to a shop.

Looking back, even if I didnt have the time to fix it myself I would have taken it to the Nissan Dealer up here---at least then they would know what they were doing.

I'm going to take my car by Nissan up here and have them drive my car around and let me know if that is how new OE is supposed to feel.

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it!

cashoit

fawkin Aack lol

maxed_out_99

you sure your from texas?
you talk like your from da chi yamsayin

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

More like Worcester, MA

cashoit