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Keyless/Door Lock/Trunk Lock Issue

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Old 07-05-2011, 10:58 PM
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Keyless/Door Lock/Trunk Lock Issue

Just picked up a 97SE tonight.

Driver door only doesn't unlock or lock by using the power switch manually inside. The other doors lock and unlock just fine when using the switch. But for the driver door I have to fiddle with the key back and forth manually to lock/unlock and it doesnt even work sometimes.

Would swapping the Window/Lock-Door Switches Panel fix this? Or do you think its the lock itself, or just the wiring from the switch specific to that door? I'm not sure how it works.. I have switches off my old 95 that were working fine I'm thinking of trying a swap.

The car has no keyless remote anymore, and they said they disabled it because of an issue with the stock Alarm randomly going off. After checking fuses I'm going to swap the Keyless Entry Module as well from my 95 and get a new remote and try to program it and try my luck. But before I do I wanted to see thoughts on the driver door lock. If its just the switches perhaps/something to do with the wiring just to the driver lock? or the door lock itself... oh, they also messed the trunk latch lock up. Doesnt even open manually anymore, nor from the button on the door. The license plate bulbs dont illuminate either. Could this just simply all be messed up wiring or a singular fuse that controls all of these items?

* The owner said she put a larger than stock battery in the car, could this have affected all of the wiring?

Thanks guys. Couldn't find anything specific to this issue on the boards.

Last edited by worldwiderecognized; 07-05-2011 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by worldwiderecognized
Just picked up a 97SE tonight.

Driver door only doesn't unlock or lock by using the power switch manually inside. The other doors lock and unlock just fine when using the switch. But for the driver door I have to fiddle with the key back and forth manually to lock/unlock and it doesnt even work sometimes.

Would swapping the Window/Lock-Door Switches Panel fix this? Or do you think its the lock itself, or just the wiring from the switch specific to that door? I'm not sure how it works.. I have switches off my old 95 that were working fine I'm thinking of trying a swap.

The car has no keyless remote anymore, and they said they disabled it because of an issue with the stock Alarm randomly going off. After checking fuses I'm going to swap the Keyless Entry Module as well from my 95 and get a new remote and try to program it and try my luck. But before I do I wanted to see thoughts on the driver door lock. If its just the switches perhaps/something to do with the wiring just to the driver lock? or the door lock itself... oh, they also messed the trunk latch lock up. Doesnt even open manually anymore, nor from the button on the door. The license plate bulbs dont illuminate either. Could this just simply all be messed up wiring or a singular fuse that controls all of these items?

* The owner said she put a larger than stock battery in the car, could this have affected all of the wiring?

Thanks guys. Couldn't find anything specific to this issue on the boards.
Given the other doors lock/unlock properly from the door switchs, it is unlikely that the window lock/door switch panels are the problem. Far more likely that the driver's door lock actuator and/or the latch mechanism itself is FUBARed. Those could in turn be restricting use of the key in the driver's door cylinder. Driver's doors tend to fail first because they get locked/unlocked much more than the other doors. First thing to do is take off door panel and put a test light on the door lock actuator connector, then see if you get power there when you use the lock button. Assuming that you do, that will confirm that the actuator itself is bad. Probably either a dealer or JY part - make sure that the JY parts works before you buy them. I had to replace both actuator and lock mechanism on mine - it's a PITA because of access. Make SURE you get all the various rods back in place correctly before you button it back up (don't ask me how I know!) If pushing the lock/unlock button does NOT try to operate the door actuator, then things get a lot more complicated. I only have door lock schematic for a 1999, but on those the button signals the Body Control Module, which in turn signals a Driver's Door Lock module - lots more complication and trouble shooting required.

If keyless, cabin button and trunk lock are all bad - how do you open trunk??

Bigger battery will have no effect on wires, relays, etc (unless she meant bigger in voltage - like 24V or 48V - highly unlikely!)

Good luck - and keep us informed.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:37 AM
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ok...from what u described i believe u have an issue with our driver side power lock.

Im havin difficulty fully understanding what u wrote. Try explaining it again.

for instance, u say that the power switch INSIDE doesnt work but to open the door u use the key??????? those are contracdictory statements and i need more clarity to fully help.

First and foremost, make sure the electrical connector of the door switch is nice and tight. If u still have the 95 door switch try to swap that to see if that works. Check to see if the switch gettin power. Check for any wire shorts or burns.

If it doesnt work, do u hear any clicking from the door or feel any actuation in the door. Either the linkages are bad or the door lock motor/cylinder is bad.

Check the linkages. Does manual lock on the handle work? Can u open the door from the inside with the handle? If so, then the linkages are fine from the handle to the lock cylinder. BUT the linkage for the power lock may be loose or broken. Gotta check that.

If all that is good, then the lock cylinder/motor might be bad. THat is a BISH to get to and replace. Lets jus hope its not that. Report back with what u find.
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:48 PM
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SOLVED:

Thanks TLMNICK! Power lock issue was actually simpy the fuse. He got them working he just put a fuse back in, and fixed trunk power lock issue. It was a ***** to get open he had to go through the middle of the back seat. And the dent in the back of the trunk lid he pushed back out for me. Great guy! Removed head unit as well. So soon as I've got some dough and the car on the road I'll be looking to him for the install in the new max and potentially a nice LED footwell kit. Respect.

The trunk lock via key is seized most likely but I never use that anyways.
I may still need to replace the driver door lock / as the key may still be a rough option. I'm not sure I didn't try it out yet. Anyways issues solved for now!

Thank you for your posts guys. It may come to changing all that yet if the door gives me issues still.
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:26 PM
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My driver nor passenger door unlock switch or remote will not work sumtimes wat cud b da problem
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