nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

so all of a sudden today, my clutch is having problems. it used to have the normal pressure of pushing in the clutch pedal, but now its super easy and doesnt move the clutch until the last inch or so of depressing the pedal.

do we have adjustable clutchs? its almost as if the adjuster slipped and the cable (if thats what our cars use) is loose and needs adjustment.

when at a red light, i had my car in 1st. i was on a flat ground with the clutch depressed as far as i could and the gears were grabbing and slowly pulling me forward when i didnt use the brake.

i just tried starting it in 1st gear and they still grabbed. then it wouldnt let me shift into neutral. so i had to shut the car off. i put it in neutral and started the car again. now it wouldnt let me shift into 1st or any other gear. i even tried forcing it in and nothing.

options? opinions?

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

did you check the fluid? if its full, it could be the master cylinder.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

+1 on the fluid. I just worked on a max that had the fluid drop in the slave cylinder to a point that air got trapped in the system. had to bleed the system. check your fluid level and condition (color).

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

If the fluid is low, check for a leak in the line.
If you have one, replace with this......
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...tch-lines.html

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

yea, it most definately has air in the line. the reservoir is completely dry. no beuno. so its on tomorrow to get this taken care of. brake fluid works, doesnt it?

j-dawg

Yes. Use any ol' DOT3. Bleed it with the motor cold, 'cause you gotta reach way under mad **** and it's easier when you're not burning your hand off. It's also easier with the intake snorkel removed. Don't forget to reconnect all your sensors when you put the snorkel back. Don't let the reservoir run dry; it's easier than you think, as the fluid gets sucked in in discrete chunks and the reservoir itself is kinda small. Don't leave your wrench in the engine bay.

I don't know if you can tell, but I've done this many times. When my old line went out, it took ages to receive the "group deals" stainless braided line, during which time I had to keep bleeding my line. Still better than going to the dealership and paying more for a significantly more retarded line.

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

my neighbor helped me today. bought a new slave cylinder and now i figured out its the master. its gonna be a PITA to get the bottom nut off. anyone have a suggestion on how to go about doing this?

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

something else has to be going on if it was out of fluid. i dont think the master leaks fluid, unless its coming from the actual fitting. anyways, as for the nuts, have fun. the one closest to the passenger side isnt as bad, u can get a swivel and socket on there. the other side...ha. get and open end wrench and hold your tongue right.

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

i got it today. easier than i thought. i used a swivel and a few extensions. but now i cant figure out how to get the damn clutch line removed from the master cylinder.

someone wanna help me with this??? im thinking i have to remove the ENTIRE clutch line system and unscrew it from the master cylinder. because the wrench just keeps slipping.

edit, i figured it out. i need a flare wrench. i have a few, but not the right size. anyways, ill keep ya updated. what a PITA this is. and if the doesnt fix the problem, bye bye maxima.

ive noticed this about maximas- as soon as one thing goes bad, everything goes bad. my last maxima had the starter go, the the belts, then the harmonic balancer and the belts again.

this car, the starter, and now the master cylinder/slave cylinder. i assume the next thing will either be the ac, or the clutch itself.

gerber2022

iTrader: (2)

i too have a problem with the cluth i have instaled a new clutch new flywheel new master cylinder new cylinder slave and new clutch line ss and still every 2 two weeks i need to add clutch fluid any more ideas is there another line between the cylinder and the clutch pedal

Closetcanibal

I would replace your master and slave cylinders for your clutch, then when you are replacing your master turn the forks that connect to the clutch pedal all the way ou then turn them in 2 full revolutions. Make sure to tighten the retaining nut to keep it in place. Bench bleed your master cylinder (basically use some rubber tubing to connect from the female end and up into the resevior. Them push the plunger in and out till no more air pumps through the line) and reinstall it. Make sure to bleed both valves (one on the slave and the other on the side of the frame) then your clutch should work awesome. I was having the same problem until recently.

Closetcanibal

You did the SS swap so you basically did a top end bleeder delete, correct? i would have someone stomp on the clutch while you are loking in the engine see if you have and fluid leakage around the lines of clyinders. Was this something where you replaced the entire clutch and then had these problems, or you replaced the clutch because of these problems?

I would deffinitly look at the the padding just below where your master cylinder meets your firewall on the inside of the car. sometimes with a bad master they leak around the plunger so if you are leaking fluid you should deffinitly check there.

Hope that helps

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

i totally forgot about this thread.

anyways, i had gotten it fixed. since i didnt have a flare wrench, i just went ahead and ripped out the entire clutch line except for the junction at the slave cylinder. i ran a straight tube down to the slave from the master and got rid of the first bleeder valve.

then my battery committed suicide for sitting in the heat of my car for 3 days.

Closetcanibal

I was thinking about doing that as well did you use SS lines of Aluminized lines? i would love to get rid of my top end?

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

nope. just a straight piece and bent it by hand. ill get a pic to show you guys.

Closetcanibal

That would be awesome I think I might do the same then, I swear I have a mile of line going to my top bleeder.

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

yea, it clears up so much space. just be careful when bending the tube. you dont want to crimp it. but its still easy to bend with your hands.

Closetcanibal

awesome im gonna make some minor adjustments to the master cylinder then i shall grab some SS line and get her done. What size and length did you go for? Is there like a certain diameter that i have to go with?

nismo maximus

iTrader: (2)

umm, i forget the length. depends on what bends you are gonna make. id go for a 24inch piece. but ill check just to be sure.

as far as the size, its just the piece that has the right size fitting on it. it was either 5/16" or 5/8". let me go find the receipt

Closetcanibal

The would be sweet did you you remove the hydraulic hose as well or leave the little air box thingy?

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

dont force the tranny if it doesnt go in it will not go in. check the clutch master cylinder for fluid after pulling the clutch petal all the way out if its full then have a buddy move the petal to see if the slave moves. if no movment you need a master cylinder or you blew the clutch line/leak in clutch line ect...