Hazed/Yellow & Oxidized headlights restored!! **PICS**
09-11-2011, 10:15 PM
#42
But seriously, 2000 gets the contaminates out nicely...why would you waste your time using 3 different grades? Try it next time you actually do one...if you ever have. I know you probably got on youtube and now think you're a pro. I get it though, the guy at the carwash drying cars all day and think he knows how to do cosmetic repairs. Keep reaching for the stars sweetie. 
Seriously? Your going to come on this forum and start arguing with someone over the simplest ****ing cosmetic repair known to man???? It doesn't matter if you start out with 500 grit sandpaper the end result will be exactly the same. Go somewhere with that bull****....
09-12-2011, 02:10 AM
#43
Seriously? Your going to come on this forum and start arguing with someone over the simplest ****ing cosmetic repair known to man???? It doesn't matter if you start out with 500 grit sandpaper the end result will be exactly the same. Go somewhere with that
bull****....
bull****....
09-12-2011, 03:34 AM
#44
your initial point was that you CANT use 1000 grit because its too course.
my initial point was, the more prep work you do with the sandpaper(which is why 1000 makes it easier in my humble toweldrying opinion) the better its going to shine when you buff it.
the end.
my initial point was, the more prep work you do with the sandpaper(which is why 1000 makes it easier in my humble toweldrying opinion) the better its going to shine when you buff it.
the end.
09-12-2011, 04:34 AM
#45
09-12-2011, 08:43 AM
#47
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 238
i didn't take up this task because of the work involve. i have used blue magic but it is really no magic at all. there was a light haze after 3 rounds hand buffing. you will work up a sweat and can't completely get rid of the haze. the brown haze came back after a few months.
cleardaze, 2000 grit seems to be straight forward enough. give us some details, i would like to take a shot with your method.
1. 2000 grit - sand it till no haze? i guess it is best hand sand manually because of the size of the headlight.
2. compound - what kind of compound? there are many out there. link to the product?
i have a 18v drill. what kind of applicator to use with the compound. or manual hand buffing is enough?
3. clearcoat - i assume it is in a liquid form - wax on and wax off method? link to the product?
Thanks.
cleardaze, 2000 grit seems to be straight forward enough. give us some details, i would like to take a shot with your method.
1. 2000 grit - sand it till no haze? i guess it is best hand sand manually because of the size of the headlight.
2. compound - what kind of compound? there are many out there. link to the product?
i have a 18v drill. what kind of applicator to use with the compound. or manual hand buffing is enough?
3. clearcoat - i assume it is in a liquid form - wax on and wax off method? link to the product?
Thanks.
09-12-2011, 08:58 AM
#48
if the 2 of you arguing think you are right, because thats the way you both learned and its the only way you know how to do things, then of course you will see the other method as useless.
point being, they both work at the end of the day...correct?
point being, they both work at the end of the day...correct?
09-12-2011, 09:22 AM
#49
and Goomz -
yeah youre right both will work. and the only reason that argument started is because the guy tried telling me that you COULDNT use 1000 grit. when in reality you can start with 40 grit and work you way up and itll still buff out.
09-12-2011, 09:35 AM
#50
I'd like to hear more about the clearcoat stuff. I've used the wax on wax off method, and another where you paint with a brush from a bottle. The wax method lasted 1 month before haze came back. The brush method lasted 3 months. Would like to know of something that lasts over a year.
Or, maybe do the polish, clearcoat with anything, then 3m clear film, replace film as necessary?
Dr J
Or, maybe do the polish, clearcoat with anything, then 3m clear film, replace film as necessary?
Dr J
09-12-2011, 09:43 AM
#51
i just wonder how long these polishes etc lasts for compared to actual sanding the headlamp. i guess it depends on the environment you live in too.
09-12-2011, 09:56 AM
#52
ThurzNite i dont know if you saw my thread i made the other day but it was a write up with pics on clearcoating your headlights.
from past experience doing it it lasts longer than oem plastics UV protection. 3 good coats of clear should protect those headlights for years. its the same with carbin fiber products. cheap UV protection = yellowing. couples good coats of clearcoat = protected.
from past experience doing it it lasts longer than oem plastics UV protection. 3 good coats of clear should protect those headlights for years. its the same with carbin fiber products. cheap UV protection = yellowing. couples good coats of clearcoat = protected.
09-12-2011, 09:56 AM
#53
09-12-2011, 10:13 AM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Sounds like, u either sand the headlights or use the polish.
Both work.
My comments is this: the polish comes with a drill bit polishing "rag", so there isnt much manual work.
If you dont have a sander or the sander bits, then i wouldnt even entertain the sanding method.
Both work.
My comments is this: the polish comes with a drill bit polishing "rag", so there isnt much manual work.
If you dont have a sander or the sander bits, then i wouldnt even entertain the sanding method.
09-12-2011, 12:14 PM
#55
Yeah hand sand it. Don't machine. You actually sand it to a haze but you'll see the yellow start coming off. 3m number 1 rubbing compound is what I use. I apply it with a rotating buffer with a wool pad. Like the one you have in the pic. We have a special protectant at work and I don't know if it's offered for consumer use. No links, I'm posting from my cell. Sorry.
09-12-2011, 12:16 PM
#56
clearcoat is a paint. it needs to be sprayed. no wax on wax off.
and Goomz -
yeah youre right both will work. and the only reason that argument started is because the guy tried telling me that you COULDNT use 1000 grit. when in reality you can start with 40 grit and work you way up and itll still buff out.
and Goomz -
yeah youre right both will work. and the only reason that argument started is because the guy tried telling me that you COULDNT use 1000 grit. when in reality you can start with 40 grit and work you way up and itll still buff out.
09-12-2011, 02:09 PM
#61
i wouldnt use clearcoat in a can but thats just me. you can buy clearcoat to spray in a gun though. or just take them to a body shop and see if theyll do it? prolly like 50 bucks or somethin.
09-12-2011, 03:29 PM
#62
http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Headlig.../dp/B002EANLGY
Dr J
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