Rear brakes over-heating...
#1
Rear brakes over-heating...
First and foremost, I researched this common 4th gen problem, and could not find my answer.
Last year I replaced both rear calipers with rebuilds. They worked perfectly until March when the drivers side caliper began to stick. I found out that it was the spring mechanism that returns the parking brake cable, so I recently bought a new caliper and swapped it out. I now have BOTH rear rotors getting very hot during a trip (about as warm as the fronts), when before I could always touch them after a drive. The car seems to roll fine when I'm stopped at a light on a slight gradient, but once moving they feel hung up a bit.
I tested the e-brake cable when I was swapping the caliper and it works perfectly. No damage, and goes back and forth with no resistance.
I also bled the brakes, but may have to do this again because the pedal is a bit spongy.
Could something weird be going on because I have a new caliper with a slightly used one on the other side?
Last year I replaced both rear calipers with rebuilds. They worked perfectly until March when the drivers side caliper began to stick. I found out that it was the spring mechanism that returns the parking brake cable, so I recently bought a new caliper and swapped it out. I now have BOTH rear rotors getting very hot during a trip (about as warm as the fronts), when before I could always touch them after a drive. The car seems to roll fine when I'm stopped at a light on a slight gradient, but once moving they feel hung up a bit.
I tested the e-brake cable when I was swapping the caliper and it works perfectly. No damage, and goes back and forth with no resistance.
I also bled the brakes, but may have to do this again because the pedal is a bit spongy.
Could something weird be going on because I have a new caliper with a slightly used one on the other side?
#3
Yeah, I should have added that too. The brackets and pins are new with fresh grease. One other thing I am thinking is that the line may be pinched where it connects to the caliper. There is a groove it sits in that was a tighter fit with the new caliper. I may inspect this tomorrow. Would a line pinched on one side of the car cause both rears to drag? That doesn't sound right to me.
#4
You could crack the bleader on the offending caliper(s) for a split second to relieve any residual pressure. If this frees up the caliper it would indicate a hydraulic issue; kinked hose, hose degrading inside (flap acting like check valve), bad proportioning valve, ABS, or MC.
BEWARE, THIS WILL MOST LIKELY REQUIRE BLEEDING THE BRAKES AFTERWARD!!
BEWARE, THIS WILL MOST LIKELY REQUIRE BLEEDING THE BRAKES AFTERWARD!!
#5
You could crack the bleader on the offending caliper(s) for a split second to relieve any residual pressure. If this frees up the caliper it would indicate a hydraulic issue; kinked hose, hose degrading inside (flap acting like check valve), bad proportioning valve, ABS, or MC.
BEWARE, THIS WILL MOST LIKELY REQUIRE BLEEDING THE BRAKES AFTERWARD!!
BEWARE, THIS WILL MOST LIKELY REQUIRE BLEEDING THE BRAKES AFTERWARD!!
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