1992maximase30

hey peeps, thanks for the advice on the shift cable...she's all good in that department.
she's coming along slowly but for surely.
but i have a problem with the front end that i cant figure out.

So she's an i30T with 115k miles.
This has been going on for about a month after the accident.
I noticed that the pass. side wheel gap is way larger than the drivers side.
i cant actually form a fist.

also whenever you take off flooring it or cruising around 30 mph then you floor it.
there's a knock on the pass. side then the steering gets all...stupid.
like any bump i hit i get steering wheel feedback.

and the car pulls.
and in the rain its even worse.
i also hear a noise (only when the ground is wet; so i'm assuming the trac control?)

and the steering wheel if you turn it to a certain point it'll quickly complete the turn left or right.

but then only then if you make a full turn or if you hit a HARD bump. it's all good.

lately I've been trying to refrain from flooring it, but i love the response of her.
cant say i love the sound cause you hardly hear anything lol.

so if anyone has any advice please share with me.
17" tires are expensive now a days.

1992maximase30

anyone?
also i would like to point out that the pass. side control arm is new.
the driver side ball joint has a little bit of play.
that was like that even before the accident.
so i know that's not the problem

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Park the car on level ground, take a pic of the pass and driver side so we can see the gap.
Other things to check:
Strut assembly, the entire assembly meaning the spring and components as well as the strut.
Steering rack bushings and the rack itself.
Tie rod ends, both inner and outer.
Are the same size tires on both sides of the car?
Sway bar bushings, links?

How serious was the accident? Was the sub frame checked for damage?

cashoit

could be struts, steering rack, endlinks, bushings, tierods, control arms.

Gotta get the car up on a lift

1992maximase30

Thanks for the replies. Hmm...the fronts are 225/50r17s. The fronts are different from the rears.

I don't mean to question you guys but...from flooring it? The control arm on the the pass side is new. The tie rods are straight ...but that was before the accident. Which was a month ago. The weird thing is the. Driver side was the one that got hit. And i have this feeling something must've happened with the tow truck towing the car to the yard.

1992maximase30

But ill see what i can do tomorrow

Dark_man_x

iTrader: (4)

who installed the control arms?

1992maximase30

Me and another maxima member cg2 i belive. Lol. Ok i checked her out this morning and the pass side is tight. The rack wasn't moving and it looked as if its been replaced. I couldn't see the rack bracket on that side due to a cover and padding material there but the driver side is fine. And if the rack bushings were bad on one side I'm sure i would've seen some imprint on the driver side. What i decided to do is replace the driver side arm and both struts though the springs are a different color too. Oh also i checked the motor mounts and there's a little more movement in drive than reverse. I don't know what to do

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Why are the springs a different color? This sort of sets a red flag for me.

You might be better off buying the Monroe Quick Strut's for the front end. They come complete with new springs. Very easy to change them that way too.

1992maximase30

Anyone? Please.?

raroz28

I am having the same problem on the drivers side of my car.

I have replaced the control arm's on each side, which came with new ball joints.

I have replaced both inner and outer tie rods on both sides

I have replaced the drivers side axel.

I have gotten an alignment.

The car will drive straight and handles well, but like you, I have a knock that I just can not seem to track down.

To me, it sounds like you have bad tie rods. A tell tale sign is when you hit a bump it is throwing you loopy and clunking hard. I've had other cars do that as well and it's always been a bad tie rod.

I am stumped as to what my problem could be. When I go to take off, it's a faint thud then it goes away. It's only on accel, decel, turning the weel, etc.

If I turn the wheel while parked, it will thud but if I keep turning the wheel back and forth, it will not continuously thud, just the once.

With the front end of the ground, it will not thud at all while turning the wheel.

I have read that it could be a ad steering knuckle, as it could be oval shaped where it should be round and that is causing the thud.

Your problem sounds somewhat similar to mine, and mine did what yours was doing to the T. Since I've replaced everything, I'm down to just one problem.

You should replace at least both outer tie rods and go from there. If it persists, maybe check into that knuckle, but if you're getting tossed around when you hit a bump, it's definitely a tie rod. Wouldn't worry about the shocks right away if I were you...

1992maximase30

See when i first read that i thought to myself : that does make any sense. I checked the front end. But my mu scle is no match for the Vq muscle. Now that i think about itthe torque of the motor forces the knickers to move making the tierod come out of place and turning the wheel all the way while backing up at a slow pace corrects the issue. The shocks are bad though this is the t model the rears are stiff as hell but the ride is bad. And when someone sits up front it bounces. Also it doesn't clunk when hitting bumps just at turns or acceleration. Yours could be the strut mount

raroz28

I never even thought to check that out. I'll have to look into that.

1992maximase30

Okay now something weird happened.
Now I don't hear the clunk Sound anymore. It wad raining for almost a week but last night and this morning no noise. But when I brake hard the car will brake straight then veer to the left or right HARD. ???

1992maximase30

Anyone?

mayweathers82

Even tho its not a max a car is a car but basically when driving my neighbors lexus home after he purchased it I had the same brake problem and it would look like I was a drunk driver lol. Basically he didn't change his right rear brake so it would pull the side with more brake pad. Check your brake pads hope that helps

1992maximase30

Pads are a little low but are fine. Within 2 months my front tires are completely bald. I don't know if I've said it before but with the wheel straight the pass side front kinda looks like the top of the wheel is tilted out and also the side of the wheel (closest to the door )

1992maximase30

Ok. S i replaced the strut and spring and it kinda helped. I really got up under the car and checked it out. The tie rod has no play I even kicked the damn wheel. But what I ended up doing is have someone drive then hit the brakes kinda hard while I stuck my head out the pass. Side. Lo and behold I seen what happened. It looks as if the front half at the bottom of the wheel ***** out. Then when this happens the car jerks to the right. And if I don't hit the gas the alignment is good. This is really confusing me. I don't have the money to let a shop look at it either

1992maximase30

Anyone? Please?

1992maximase30

?please?

1992maximase30

Please?

BenL

It sounds a lot like control arm bushing... I'd inspect even though the arm is new just for my own sanity. Don't have any other ideas at this point as to what could cause that kind of motion under those conditions.