Car is 1995 GLE 133k Auto, I've owned the car 1y 2 months now.

Been reading threads about this for 2 days now and felt that I should add my experiences to the board. I don't have to giggle the key for starting so I believe I can rule out the ignition switch. Car turns over easy but engine starts up.

I live in Colorado(Denver). So last week is when issues began, it snows here.

Car starts right up when cold. The starting issue began around 3 days ago. It happens first on tues then thurs and tonight. Tonight being the worst that it didn't even start back up after letting it set for 20 mins. When the car did start it was a combination of a long start and me pumping the gas till my leg hurt.

I have changed/done when I first got the car

pvc
spark plugs
engine coolant temp sensor
clean TB
clean MAF
change fuel filter
change air filter
starter was replaced two months before I bought the car.
new battery it's at 12.99 V Alt reads 14.00 at idle all connections are clean and tight too

Things I need to do to this car
replace water pump(I've been losing coolant for a year and now it's overheating when the car is not moving)
clean egr valve
clean IACV
replace front 02 sensor(s)

Things that need to be determined/have their status checked.
Grounding issues(I don't know how to check/do this)
Fuel pressure regulator(may just replace it anyway)
Only have two engine codes; front O2 sensors and EGR valve.
I think I saw a code for camshaft pos sensor a while back but if I did it's gone now.

Tonight I changed the camshaft position sensor hoping it would fix the issue didn't work.
Next I am going to change both crankshaft position sensors. I am going to do this in the morning. Rather than just test the parts I'm going to change them because the car is at 133k and I feel they are past their general life. I recently had my core support fixed and while I was under the car tonight I noticed that the rear(POS) crank sensor had some damage on it almost like someone was cutting away at the plastic. The car runs good no power loss no hesitation etc gets 21.3 in a crowded city on prem gas. Fuel to the engine seems to be fine because I can smell it when I try to crank the car. Haven't determined the status of the fuel pressure regulator but may just change it anyway.




I also don't understand how to test the sensors anyway. I have a multimeter and the FSM but I'm still unclear.

 

Well I just replaced all 3 sensors, both crankshaft and the cam. Car still not starting... Kinda lost now.

 

Instead of pumping the gas, hold it WOT when it doesn't want to start. If it starts then, it's flooding out for some reason.

Test the ECTS when it doesn't want to start, make sure it isn't reading cold (which will make it dump a lot more fuel than it should). Note that if you're low enough on coolant, the ECTS will not be able to read accurately.

 

Tnx.

I filled up both my reserve and radiator. Will look into how to test the ECTS. I just changed my 8 months ago too. My next stop is to go and pull out the spark plugs, I was reading that from all that from so many "starts" I may have gotten fuel on them. I have also had that body work done to the front(core support) so I think my grounds may have been altered? I will probadly just change the fuel pressure regulator too.

 

So tonight I'm going to head out with my flashlight and

check fuses, check relays
check spark plugs
check codes
try starting with MAF unplugged

Had to leave the car on the side of the street, luckily I right next to my apt when all this happened.

 

damn man this is a toughie...

HAve u had any tranny work done recently?

When u try to start the car, what exactly does the car do? Does it crank all day, or does it not crank at all?

U checked the sensors, but did you check the signals goin back to the ECU? But i suppose if there was a major issue with the return signal from the sensors then the CEL would illuminate for the sensors.

Did the Cam sensor code go away, cuz that wd def cause starting issues?

Its not the fuel regulator.

You have an electrical issue and those are the worst. Find and clean all grounds. Add a ground from the negative battery terminal to the tranny housing. See if that helps

 

No tranny work done but I did have some exausht work and the core support done so maybe the grounds got messed up some how. Cranks all day but won't start.

How do I check the signals going back to the ECU?
How did I found the grounds/add them? Is there a picture some how?
I am going to walk to autozone soon and buy some grounds cables but I don't know how/where to put them.

I thought I saw the code for the cam sensor a while back but when I checked codes last week it was not there.

 

Check slow yota's no crank thread or WXM's FPR thread. I think there is a pic of the additional grounds in there.

The grounds for the CKPS are located on the UIM dead center of the engine. It basically a wire that terminates at a bolt.

 

Ok.

I all fuses/relays check out
Forgot to try and start the car with the MAF unplugged
Checked codes and it said Camshaft Pos Sen(I just changed it) maybe it happened before I changed it

Took 1 spark plug out it was wet and smelled of gas(researching this now)

Got an early x-mas present from the police--- ticket for being to close to stop sign.

 

sometimes u just cant get a break...

 

That's as far as I could push the car before getting too tired.

I've been doing some reading.

I think I need to change the plugs. They have black on them smell of gas and are wet. I'm assuming this would cause some type of no spark issue. Someone turn me in the right direction if possible, I'm about to walk about 3 miles to the parts store.

 

Where are you getting 'no spark' from? You're being very unclear.

First you said it starts fine when cold, now you say it's not starting at all? You're obviously getting fuel, so leave that alone. Have you tested for spark?

It just cranks with no attempt at starting at all? Doesn't try to kick over at all, just a normal cranking sound the entire time?

Have you tried starting it in clear flood mode?

 

It doesn't start at all now plug are wet smell like gas and have black on them

 

You need to help us help you. If you'd rather be cryptic about your symptoms and neglect to answer even the most basic questions, this isn't going to go well.

 

you test for spark?

 

I'm on my cell so I must have missed sum of your post clear flood mood is gas pedal all the way down right? Well that was getting to work the first 2 times it happened but it didn't work last time I tries it

 

I just got done putting new plugs. In not sure how to test for spark will need to research. I assumed that since the plugs were soaked from gas and black that's why the car would start even after replacing both crank sensors and the cam. Battery is 12.47 volts.

 

Just started with the mad unplugged and me holding the gas down going to plug maf back up and hold gas down to see if it starts

 

Car just started with Maf plugged up but my foot was all the way down on the gas. It not idleing erraticly like it wants to die and sputtering. No codes yet

 

Take the code part back I just got p0340 and p1335. I just changed the can sensor with one. From auto zone

 

Ok back on my computer.

Car stalled when I put it into drive. The erratic idle seemed to get worse as the car heated up. I'm guess the autozone sensors are trash since I'm getting a code for them.

Here is a video of how it was starting



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy0LN5ygNTE

 

Maybe it's just me, but I can't hear anything but the reminder beep in that entire video, meaning that it doesn't really help at all.

Your check engine light isn't proofing out, which is an issue. Bulb blown/removed, ECU not getting power, or you've left it in diagnostic mode. The last two need to be fixed first, before you continue on with how it's hard to start.

As far as your CPS and CKPS codes, was there a reason you replaced them in the first place, or were you just assuming that they were bad and threw some parts at it? I see that you for some reason think that the CKPS' should be changed because they're old, which is ridiculous. You're more likely to introduce problems when you go switching OEM components out for aftermarket when the current ones were apparently working perfectly fine.

You say that you're getting the code for it so it 'must be bad', no. That's not how DTCs work, they don't indicate a 'bad' component, they in no way tell you what to replace. They're an indicator of an issue with a certain system or component, which you need to actually diagnose.

So you have still not checked for spark?


Fix the check engine light issue first, go from there.

 

I recorded with my phone so I couldn't get the volume up any more I can hear them with my head phones. MY CEL bulb is burned out but I have a code reader that I plug up to my laptop. I just got done cleaning off the old parts and I'm going to mix and match to see if that makes a difference. I'm thinking the issue is the quality of autozone electrical parts. I keep reading bad things in the web. I didn't test for no spark because the car started when today. Maybe I should test for spark any? All in all, I have a code for the p1335 and p0340. Also I replaced them because I read here that other people no start issue was the cam sensors(i read about the grounding things on MT I have an AT). Not to mention I got these codes down the road.

 

Tnx to those that have posted there knowledge in this thread.

I just don't understand how brand new parts don't work...

 

Update.

None of the autozone parts worked...

Took off the old parts cleaned them with rubbing alcohol, re-installed parts codes gone car back to normal... started up right away.

 

solved it?

 

I guess the issue was resolved.

 

[QUOTE=augnon;8262473]Update.

None of the autozone parts worked...

Took off the old parts cleaned them with rubbing alcohol, re-installed parts codes gone car back to normal... started up right away.[/QUOT

Yes! Cleaning the parts solved the problem. The autozone parts didn't even work. I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and a strong magnet to get the metal shavingings. Cmax I owe you a meal or something for fixing my vacuum line that night!

 

i know autozone's policy about sensors and electricals and no returns...but i would return those parts. Angrily i might add

 

I returned everything no questions asked. Car starts even better now. Doing all this research inspired me to make my own grounding kit. Just finished it and going to install before it gets too dark!

 

Well my starting problem is back.

Car started right up this morning after sitting overnight. Went to the store and came out in about 10 mins. Temp gauge in the middle@ normal temp.

Not getting any codes batter is at normal charge and I drove around 30 miles yesterday. The car is only starting now after pumping the gas a bit. I cleaned the throttle body around 9 months ago. Going to do that again in a bit and see if that helps. I think I have a fuel issue now. The reason I say this is because

holding the gas down all the way doesn't help but pressing it down a bit or pumping it helps it to start. Pumping it seems to work best. I read that holding the gas down all the way turns off the injectors.

I'm also going to go to auto-zone in a bit and buy a new fuel pressure regulator.

 

Well I cleaned the TB again and the IACV. I think did something wrong on the IACV when I took it apart.

The car now has a rough idle, idles low and it stalled a few times on the way home. I'm hoping that adjusting the idle fixes the issue. The car started right up when I put everything back to gether after sitting for about 2 hours.

 

Ok. I found the idle issue. A piece of the TB gasket came apart was not sitting right in the TB. I off the gasket and just put the TB back on without one irratic idle/stall is gone. Didn't even have to re-adjust idle. It is around .50 rpm higher than what I remember.

Car started right back up when it stalled and just now when I came from around the corner. Gonna let it sit for 10 mins and see if it starts.


Couldn't change the Fuel pressure reg because the bolts were stripped. Hopefully the starting issue was related to a dirty TB/IACV. We shall see.