Rusting...again
Rusting...again
Anyone have any experience with removing the undercoating on our cars? I have a few rust spots that I'm going to be taking care of, and I read different methods online, ranging from simple heat gun to aircraft stripper and angle grinder with wire wheel...
EDIT:
Here is the older thread that I could not find that was floating around on here: Almost one year ago!
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...loorboard.html
EDIT:
Here is the older thread that I could not find that was floating around on here: Almost one year ago!
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...loorboard.html
Last edited by Maximeltman; Nov 4, 2011 at 01:33 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
i had a rusting area on the rear tire wheel well, where the doors meets the wheel well. Entire area was starting to crap out.
I went to autozone and bought bondo, sandpaper, wire mesh to cover the affected area ( the affected area was about size of a golf ball), and spray paint.
Started by cleaning the area with soap and water. Dry. Sand area to smooth edges and clean any residuals. Adhere wire mesh to the area Then apply bondo as directed on the can. Let dry. Spray paint a few coats. no more rust
I went to autozone and bought bondo, sandpaper, wire mesh to cover the affected area ( the affected area was about size of a golf ball), and spray paint.
Started by cleaning the area with soap and water. Dry. Sand area to smooth edges and clean any residuals. Adhere wire mesh to the area Then apply bondo as directed on the can. Let dry. Spray paint a few coats. no more rust
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 64
As far as I know the rust will never come off. Even if you sand it away it will come back.
I had some rust on the inner wheel well of my quarter panel on my Camaro. I sanded it all away, primered and painted it only to have it come back some months later.
My friend who is a painter at a body shop said it's like a cancer you never can truly get rid of.
He said you can sand it away and coat with por 15 or something, then paint over that to help slow it down.
I had some rust on the inner wheel well of my quarter panel on my Camaro. I sanded it all away, primered and painted it only to have it come back some months later.
My friend who is a painter at a body shop said it's like a cancer you never can truly get rid of.
He said you can sand it away and coat with por 15 or something, then paint over that to help slow it down.
OK thank you dudes! I just went to Harbor Freight and bought a multitool...about $30.00. this seems like a good method:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzv38W1DDic
I'll post about how it works in a few days or so.
Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 238
if it is just a small area you can use a steel brush to brush the area. or you can prep it with rust dissolving gel sold by our local auto part stores and then use a steel brush follows with a product like rust bullet, por15 or rust converter. these rust fighting products are sticky and the color will really stick to your hands so wear gloves.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 7
I've had rusting under my left rear door for quite a while now. I had it sanded down and painted but it only slowed it down.
it only slowed it down because they didnt fix it right. if you sand down to bare metal and use proper corrosion protection it shouldnt rust again. you need a proper PRIMER SURFACER as well as a PRIMER SEALER. then base coat and most importantly 3 layers atleast of clearcoat. not enough clearcoat will cause your paint to peel from the sun! leading to rust.
ok im in the process, and i just sanded to bare metal, coated w rust encapsulator. check out my older post:
Actually search dont work atm so I cant post it
but I had an old thread about this same ****.
So while I'm down there under the car, I decided to attack most of the suspect looking rust, I'm just taking it down to BM by grinding or sanding. then coating. Then I'm just putting on sound deadener/undercoat
this is what I wioll be using:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270588079185...84.m1439.l2649
The patch job that I did about a year ago using the same process is still looking good.
Actually search dont work atm so I cant post it
but I had an old thread about this same ****. So while I'm down there under the car, I decided to attack most of the suspect looking rust, I'm just taking it down to BM by grinding or sanding. then coating. Then I'm just putting on sound deadener/undercoat
this is what I wioll be using:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270588079185...84.m1439.l2649
The patch job that I did about a year ago using the same process is still looking good.
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 107
From: plymouth CT
Underneath, I got some mild surface rust, I'll just sand and paint that.
I also have '3rd degree' rust that's like rust-through, that needs to be cut out and either fg or welded. I'll probably go fg.
I'm also applying sound deadener to the floor, it's fatmat liquid deadener. I notice too much road noise so this is an opportunity to adress it.
i havent used the liquid stuff, but my trunk is lined with fatmat RATTLETRAP. which is the thicker quality stuff they make. and i highly recommend fatmat. same quality as dynamat i feel.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
.My boy picked up a lil 8in sub, JL audio. I was surprised how hard that lil 8in hit.
ok, some updates:
If you want to do this yourself, I suggest good preparation. Gloves, sanders, eye protection and mask, etc. A drill really is your friend.
This is what I found lurking silently under the dead pedal and passenger side:
the repairs I did the same for passenger side, just didn't want to post any more photos:
The rear; These drain tubes have a metal coupler that is apparently prone to rust, then it will break apart, channeling all the water into the tool compartment instead of out the car. this is by the muffler:
then repaired, sorta.
Lots of pics, sorry. But this I hope will give you some motivation to at least CHECK before it gets too late.
If you want to do this yourself, I suggest good preparation. Gloves, sanders, eye protection and mask, etc. A drill really is your friend.
This is what I found lurking silently under the dead pedal and passenger side:
the repairs I did the same for passenger side, just didn't want to post any more photos:
The rear; These drain tubes have a metal coupler that is apparently prone to rust, then it will break apart, channeling all the water into the tool compartment instead of out the car. this is by the muffler:
then repaired, sorta.
Lots of pics, sorry. But this I hope will give you some motivation to at least CHECK before it gets too late.
The coupler connecting my rear drain tubes rusted away also. The inner side of my right quarter got rusted away. I tracked it down after noticing the right quarter bubbling on the lip.
I fixed the outisde bubbles but haven't gotten around to fixing the inside rust yet. What material did you use to patch the rusted section near the muffler?
I fixed the outisde bubbles but haven't gotten around to fixing the inside rust yet. What material did you use to patch the rusted section near the muffler?
You should cut out the bad rust, and I patched it with fiberglass and resin. Its still not 100% sealed I plan to put undercoat on there and make it water tight.
Yes the couple is really a big POS
but at least it's been looked at and I plan to cut the **** out and use another type of coupler maybe pvc or something
Yes the couple is really a big POS
but at least it's been looked at and I plan to cut the **** out and use another type of coupler maybe pvc or something
Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 113
Rust
Wow, those are tough conditions that those Maximas must be facing, lots of road salt. I've worked on lots of older cars and that is typical, but the metal in the Maximas is at least galvanized. Sounds like you are treating it properly, you have to get it all and then treat the bare metal with the correct primer right away, or it will start back in. I've used Eastwood products to seal other cars, especially the oxide paint, and not had any problems. Por 15 is good too.
^ True that MikeB! 
Just got off work. When I took on this project, I took off my Progress rear sway bar as it was too rusted to $#it...I sanded it down and painted it, but I never put it back on and now, it seems that my car takes turns much better
I mean, when I had it on, the car would squeal when taking sharp 90 degree turns at moderate speed. Now I don't get that loud squeal anymore, and the car just feels more planted. I don't know.
It's about time to snow here in the midwest, being from Cali, it really sucks a$$ but oh well. The car is much better suited for the weather and salt now
Just got off work. When I took on this project, I took off my Progress rear sway bar as it was too rusted to $#it...I sanded it down and painted it, but I never put it back on and now, it seems that my car takes turns much better
I mean, when I had it on, the car would squeal when taking sharp 90 degree turns at moderate speed. Now I don't get that loud squeal anymore, and the car just feels more planted. I don't know.
It's about time to snow here in the midwest, being from Cali, it really sucks a$$ but oh well. The car is much better suited for the weather and salt now
You should cut out the bad rust, and I patched it with fiberglass and resin. Its still not 100% sealed I plan to put undercoat on there and make it water tight.
Yes the couple is really a big POS but at least it's been looked at and I plan to cut the **** out and use another type of coupler maybe pvc or something
Yes the couple is really a big POS
but at least it's been looked at and I plan to cut the **** out and use another type of coupler maybe pvc or something I removed that power antenna so I won't have to worry about that coupler rusting away again. I never listen to AM and the BOSE windshield antenna gets all the local FM stations. I patched up the antenna hole with fiberglass inside and filler outside. I didn't recognize your filling as fiberglass because mine was a darker yellow.
Due to rust I had to replace both fenders, heavily sanded down the rocker panels, and I welded on a peice of bent L-shaped sheet metal to both rear wheel lips. Driving back-and-forth over the berkshire mountains to get to work has done a number on my MAX.
I cut out the rust and sprayed it with rust converter then rubberized coating. My hole is much bigger than yours so I'll probably weld a peice of sheet metal on it.
I removed that power antenna so I won't have to worry about that coupler rusting away again. I never listen to AM and the BOSE windshield antenna gets all the local FM stations. I patched up the antenna hole with fiberglass inside and filler outside. I didn't recognize your filling as fiberglass because mine was a darker yellow.
Due to rust I had to replace both fenders, heavily sanded down the rocker panels, and I welded on a peice of bent L-shaped sheet metal to both rear wheel lips. Driving back-and-forth over the berkshire mountains to get to work has done a number on my MAX.
I removed that power antenna so I won't have to worry about that coupler rusting away again. I never listen to AM and the BOSE windshield antenna gets all the local FM stations. I patched up the antenna hole with fiberglass inside and filler outside. I didn't recognize your filling as fiberglass because mine was a darker yellow.
Due to rust I had to replace both fenders, heavily sanded down the rocker panels, and I welded on a peice of bent L-shaped sheet metal to both rear wheel lips. Driving back-and-forth over the berkshire mountains to get to work has done a number on my MAX.
And yea, I hear your pain bro!
If you have a BOSE stero system then you'll have a windsheild antenna. It's the top 3 lines in the windshield. You'll see them seperate from the rear defroster lines. To test the BOSE antenna unplug both wires from the power antenna.