So I'm having a few problems with my car. I don't know if I should start from the top... I'll just give the run down. (Skip down to the last two paragraphs if you don't want to hear the whole story. I just wanted to get it down with some detail since it's always easier to help with more details. Also, I don't know where the extent of the work will end.)

My car lost power on me on the freeway, going a sustained 70 mph. It started stuttering and smoking and finally shut off. Didn't appear to have any electrical issues. There was some smoke coming from under the hood. I pulled the trouble codes and they were P0732- Incorrect Gear Ratio 2, and a couple of knock sensor codes.

I took it in to a transmission shop and the guy told me my transmission wasn't bad, my catalytic converter was. He said it was restricting the flow, too much back pressure. Also, said the smoke from the hood was just the exhaust emanating back through my hacked air box.

I replaced the catalytic converter and y-pipe with a warpspeed y-pipe and bosal cat. On the test drive, everything was fine until I opened it up a little. My throttle response was a little erratic. Seemed to try to go to 2000 RPM whether I was giving it more gas or trying to sit idle. I pulled the codes again and this time no P0732 code, but now I had a P0505 (I think that's what it is). It was the IAC Valve code.

So I took apart the TB and IAC Valve and gave them a thorough cleaning (BTW there seems to be hole right by the opening of where the IAC valve mounts. I'm not sure if it leads to the EGR tube (doesn't seem to be in the right spot to lead to the EGR tube). It seemed to be clogged up pretty good, but I wasn't sure if it was just a dip or a hole leading to another component. It was that clogged up. Can somebody clarify what that is (wish I had a pic)?). So then the idle was a little high, but seemed to settle down after it warmed up

I cleared the codes and test drove it again. It felt much better. I was able to cruise at 60 MPH this time. Then I ran into something else. Now this may be irrelevant, but I think it's worthy to note... My windows started fogging up (test driving at night) so I turned on the defroster and set the thermostat to max hot. Not long afterwards my gauge was reading my car overheating. Way past H. I pull over, but there's no smoke and my fluid level is fine (I only checked the reservoir, more on this later). I waited about 20 min. and started up the engine again. According to my gauges my car had cooled down. So I started driving home. I flipped the thermostat back to to max cold and switched the defroster off. Then the gauge steadily began to decline all the way to the lowest temperature setting. Finally, got home and pulled the trouble codes. The only ones showing were the two knock sensor codes). I took the car to a mechanic the next morining.

So far the mechanic has found a crack in my radiator and there was no fluid in there (which I missed since I only checked the reservoir. Didn't know the radiator could go empty without evacuating the reservoir), my radiator cap can't hold the pressure, my radiator hoses are crusty, and my fan wasn't working. DAMN, I'm a negligent SOB (in my sorry defense, I hadn't had any cooling system problems until the last test drive). He said the fan does work when connected directly to a power source, but thinks there's a bad relay or circuit somewhere. He said his shop can't really diagnose anything else until I get the radiator fixed so they can drive it around.

I applaud anyone who read the novel. The question is how much work is it to replace the radiator and hoses? The mechanic quoted my $652 to replace the radiator, cap, hoses, and fill with fluid (I don't think he mentioned the fan). I replaced the y-pipe and cat and cleaned the TB and IACV myself. Is it much more work than that? I read some of the manuals on replacing the radiator. It seems straight forward. I just would like a comparison or confirmation that it is not that hard before I tell the guy to close it up and let me take it home to do the repairs.

 

Damn that post was long man...its cuz i read the whole thing

First off, yes the hole you found near the iacv is the EGR tube. clean that out as best u can.

Second, If u can remove a TB then u can remove/replace a radiator. Its retarded easy to replace:

1) jack the car up. Or pull the pass front wheel on the sidewalk. U will need clearance to get to the lower rad hose.

2) loosen clamps on the upper and lower hoses.

3) drain any remaining fluid.

4) loosen the 2 bolts on top of the old radiator. Twist the mounts out of the way.

5) unplug fan electrical connectors.

6) pull the radiator up and out.

7) installation is the reverse

Go online and save some money on the rad and fan and install yourself. I did.

One of the fuses for the fan is blown. Go to the junkyard and pull a few.

 

Sorry about that lengthy post. I bet it scared a few others away so thanks for replying. I was just trying to be thorough in documenting anything that could help troubleshoot in case fixing the radiator doesn't solve all my problems.

It looks like it is the port for the EGR tube. I read on here or another forum that you have to hack some studs to remove it? Or you can try removing it from the bottom? Any experience with that? I gather it's not that critical, mainly a MPG thing, but since I have a long commute to work so it may be worth it.

 

I replaced my rad a couple years ago. Did it with the car sitting flat on the ground (stock height), only took about 30 minutes for me to do (incl refill) and the only tools I needed were a 10mm socket and flat head screwdriver (for the new hose clamps, factory ones broke upon removal thanks to corrosion).

Hardest part IMO was removing the front section of the stock intake so I could get the rad out the top, very simple stuff nonetheless.

 

I would take a spray bottle, a wire brush, and a bottle of chevron techron and try my best to clean it out. removal is a pain

 

Did my radiator in maybe an hour start to stop. Just go slow and pay attention. Be aware that you could have more cooling issues masked by the crack. It is very common to have lots of bad parts, but low pressure covers up the failures. For me I had a crack in the upper tank and no pressure in the radiator. I replaced the radiator which exposed a cap that would not hold pressure. Replacing the cap exposed a water pump with bad seals.

Good luck.

 

Removal of thethe egr tube is a pain but it made a big difference in my performance. Hacking that stud did take me a while though. My egr tube was almost clogged at the top.

 

Or you can get your parts from www.importrp.com... Alot of ppl on the org use em... We do get discount, they are avail on org, under Group Deals... I got my Koyo Rad for $106 shipped! Make sure u get new hoses too..

 

If you could do your exhaust then a radiator should be no issue for you. Just when you put the new one in be careful not to damage the fins>< Those things are quite fragile...

 

I replaced my radiator about a year ago, bought it from pepboys for about 125, new hoses, clamps, and two gallon of coolant for an additional 50-60 bucks. It's an easy job.

 

just put on the new radiator. Easy as advertised so far, but I have a question. When I first disconnected the A/T hoses, there was some stored up fluid, but not that much. When I went to reconnect the hoses to the new radiator, I got a whole lot more fluid. I figured I'd let it all drain out, but it's taking a long time. It's a very slow but steady drip/stream, going on a quart and a half. My question is, do I really have to wait for it to finish if I'm just going to do a flush anyway?

 

Assume that you know that is A/T fluid, not coolant. Above instructions sort of assumed you had a manual tranny and did not mention disconnecting the two connections for the transmission fluid cooler at bottom of radiator. Check your A/T fluid level and make sure you have enough in tranny.

 

yeah, my instructions were for a manual tranny. my bad

 

Update:

I figured that Cashoit. Not a big deal though, just two more hoses. The fluid leaking out was actually a coolant/oil mixture (at first anyway, then it was mainly oil). I let it all drain and then flushed the new radiator a couple of times (water, flush, water). The car wasn't overheating and I got the fan to work (didn't really do much there, just wiped down the assembly and make sure the wire harness was engaged properly. Checked my ATF, level was good. I test drove it and it didn't give me any problems so I drove it to work today. Pretty good so far, but it's another 35 miles back home. Hopefully, I'm clear.

Now I just need to replace the knock sensor (this time the code is for real, seems the plastic probably melted when it overheated), and while I'm at it, the PCV valve, fuel filter, and the spark plugs and I should be good. Maybe the belts too.

Thanks for you help guys!

 

Yeah man no prob. Told ya the radiator was easy. Want to know how i learned how to change mine...I used the org too lol.

All those tune up items i wouldnt want to do all in the same day. PCV and filter are going to **** u off. THe plugs not too bad.

 

Its really this simple. i replaced my rad in like a half hour... Its stupid easy.

 

Good luck with the belt... nissan tensioners are a pain...

 

planning to replace mine this weekend. how to remove the air intake that is on top of the radiator. I broke one of the plastic screws on it

 

Once the plastic screws/tabs are loose: disconnect your MAP sensor (attached to the left side, both the electrical and the vac hose), make sure the wire and hose is completely off of it, you should then be able to just pull straight up on the front (make sure the 90° bend lets go of it) and carefully angle it out the rest of the way.
When reinstalling just avoid getting hung up on the wiring and you'll be good. Oh, and don't forget to hook the MAP sensor vac hose up when you're done... it's small and easy to forget if you're in a hurry.