Strange noise when cranking - car won't start
11-11-2011, 08:39 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Strange noise when cranking - car won't start
I searched and couldn't find anything relevant to my problem...
The last time I started/drove my Max was Friday. All day Saturday and until Sunday PM, I did not start my car. Sunday PM, and no start. So the car sat for less than 2 days:
My question is, what would cause a weird starting noise and a slow turning crank? It's never made this noise before and I'm stumped. Up until now the starter turned fast and had sounded like it always did.
It isn't grinding, just sounds really tired.
Things I DO know:
Starter is fine, had it tested. Bought another starter to test, no change.
Battery is fine, had it tested. Put in my wife's brand new one, no change.
The tranny has fluid
Getting Fuel
NO codes
Car ran great, averaged 25 MGP
No visible marks or chips on flywheel
Throttle body is clean
IACV is clean
No blown fuses
I haven't had time to test the CPS and CKPS sensors but will have time tomorrow (weather permitting). I will also clean my air filter and MAF when I check the sensors.
What else could this be from (I know, it could be anything)?
No spark? But what would cause that when everything was fine before (sans the hard start)?
Any input/help is greatly appreciated. Anyone in the Boston area????
The last time I started/drove my Max was Friday. All day Saturday and until Sunday PM, I did not start my car. Sunday PM, and no start. So the car sat for less than 2 days:
My question is, what would cause a weird starting noise and a slow turning crank? It's never made this noise before and I'm stumped. Up until now the starter turned fast and had sounded like it always did.
It isn't grinding, just sounds really tired.
Things I DO know:
Starter is fine, had it tested. Bought another starter to test, no change.
Battery is fine, had it tested. Put in my wife's brand new one, no change.
The tranny has fluid
Getting Fuel
NO codes
Car ran great, averaged 25 MGP
No visible marks or chips on flywheel
Throttle body is clean
IACV is clean
No blown fuses
I haven't had time to test the CPS and CKPS sensors but will have time tomorrow (weather permitting). I will also clean my air filter and MAF when I check the sensors.
What else could this be from (I know, it could be anything)?
No spark? But what would cause that when everything was fine before (sans the hard start)?
Any input/help is greatly appreciated. Anyone in the Boston area????
11-11-2011, 09:52 AM
#2
Have you tried taking the ignition switch out and turning it with a flat-head screwdriver? That and grounds seem to be the only things you're overlooking here (that I'm aware of).
Given your location I'd probably lean more toward grounding being a big part of your problem, this install guide shows you one way to route the ground wires, if you're handy enough with electronics you can make them yourself (use 4-gauge wire if you do, though): http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php
Given your location I'd probably lean more toward grounding being a big part of your problem, this install guide shows you one way to route the ground wires, if you're handy enough with electronics you can make them yourself (use 4-gauge wire if you do, though): http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php
11-11-2011, 11:48 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Have you tried taking the ignition switch out and turning it with a flat-head screwdriver? That and grounds seem to be the only things you're overlooking here (that I'm aware of).
Given your location I'd probably lean more toward grounding being a big part of your problem, this install guide shows you one way to route the ground wires, if you're handy enough with electronics you can make them yourself (use 4-gauge wire if you do, though): http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php
Given your location I'd probably lean more toward grounding being a big part of your problem, this install guide shows you one way to route the ground wires, if you're handy enough with electronics you can make them yourself (use 4-gauge wire if you do, though): http://www.activetuning.com/products...stallation.php
I have grounding wires installed, and you are correct with grounding being the biggest problem. I know this for a fact because when I changed my clutch years ago, I don't remember cleaning the mating surface - hence a bad ground between the tranny and belhousing. But it should still start
11-11-2011, 11:53 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
11-13-2011, 03:45 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Updtae
Cps and both CKPS tested within spec. Took them out and cleaned - they weren't really that dirty. Ignition switch tested within spec also.
I'm thinking no spark? But why? I haven't checked for spark just yet and don't know how. I'll read up about it and test tomorrow or Tues.
This is what my car used to sound like when trying to start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PPVH...eature=related
This is what it sounds like NOW: NO CODES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpLZzsSXXxo
I'm thinking no spark? But why? I haven't checked for spark just yet and don't know how. I'll read up about it and test tomorrow or Tues.
This is what my car used to sound like when trying to start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PPVH...eature=related
This is what it sounds like NOW: NO CODES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpLZzsSXXxo
11-14-2011, 11:35 AM
#7
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Posts: 242
Just had same issue my thread is still on the front page. I took apart my IACV and cleaned it issue is now gone. I also re-cleaned my TB. The only left to change on my car related to the non-start is the FPR. So far so good right now.
11-14-2011, 03:27 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 235
cashoit- i remember a couple years back we were going back and fourth on a starting issue mine recently returned
my solution (so far) was
-even though i was getting fuel i had no idea if it was the right pressure unless you hook up a gauge theres no way of knowing for sure
-with the car running i pulled the fuel pump fuse until it dies
-turn off ignition replace the fuse
-cut the fuel line between the rail and filter
-added a brass T hooked up a gauge make sure your clamps are tight or else it will leak or spray when pressurized
-turn ignition to on/run then off then back on a couple times to re-pressurize
pre-start FSM calls for 43 psi idle should be about 34 psi
i was only getting about 35psi pre-start and 32psi idle
BUT my pressure was NOT holding after shut down it drop to about 20 psi with in 30 min
so either injectors, fpr, fuel pump or fuel were leaking,
to test i pressurized fuel system, pinched the feed line, turned the car off waited about 20 min i had no drop (meaning everything after the pinch held pressure) once i released the pinch it instantly dropped
that lead me to the fuel pump
it ended up being the clamps from under the sending unit to the pump once i replaced those the pressure held and was a bit higher pre-start
i did replace the fpr before i did this test (or even thought of it) if there wasnt a drop i would have pinched the return line (and if there was a drop then it would mean fpr isnt holding or leaking injector )
i also replaced the cam sensor with a junk yard one that ohmed lower then my current one at the same temperature even though the original was with in spec
so far all seems good well see if it will stay that way
my solution (so far) was
-even though i was getting fuel i had no idea if it was the right pressure unless you hook up a gauge theres no way of knowing for sure
-with the car running i pulled the fuel pump fuse until it dies
-turn off ignition replace the fuse
-cut the fuel line between the rail and filter
-added a brass T hooked up a gauge make sure your clamps are tight or else it will leak or spray when pressurized
-turn ignition to on/run then off then back on a couple times to re-pressurize
pre-start FSM calls for 43 psi idle should be about 34 psi
i was only getting about 35psi pre-start and 32psi idle
BUT my pressure was NOT holding after shut down it drop to about 20 psi with in 30 min
so either injectors, fpr, fuel pump or fuel were leaking,
to test i pressurized fuel system, pinched the feed line, turned the car off waited about 20 min i had no drop (meaning everything after the pinch held pressure) once i released the pinch it instantly dropped
that lead me to the fuel pump
it ended up being the clamps from under the sending unit to the pump once i replaced those the pressure held and was a bit higher pre-start
i did replace the fpr before i did this test (or even thought of it) if there wasnt a drop i would have pinched the return line (and if there was a drop then it would mean fpr isnt holding or leaking injector )
i also replaced the cam sensor with a junk yard one that ohmed lower then my current one at the same temperature even though the original was with in spec
so far all seems good well see if it will stay that way
11-15-2011, 01:05 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
I have also replaced my FPR recently so I know that's not the problem. The car is getting fuel, I can smell it not being burned.
11-15-2011, 01:08 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
hey cashoit, thanks for the reply. I have to test both of those, I'm on original coils at 165K miles... so you never know.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago, but with all the hard starts I've had maybe they're shot?
Anything is possible...
I replaced the plugs about a year ago, but with all the hard starts I've had maybe they're shot?
Anything is possible...
11-15-2011, 01:14 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
cashoit- i remember a couple years back we were going back and fourth on a starting issue mine recently returned
my solution (so far) was
-even though i was getting fuel i had no idea if it was the right pressure unless you hook up a gauge theres no way of knowing for sure
-with the car running i pulled the fuel pump fuse until it dies
-turn off ignition replace the fuse
-cut the fuel line between the rail and filter
-added a brass T hooked up a gauge make sure your clamps are tight or else it will leak or spray when pressurized
-turn ignition to on/run then off then back on a couple times to re-pressurize
pre-start FSM calls for 43 psi idle should be about 34 psi
i was only getting about 35psi pre-start and 32psi idle
BUT my pressure was NOT holding after shut down it drop to about 20 psi with in 30 min
so either injectors, fpr, fuel pump or fuel were leaking,
to test i pressurized fuel system, pinched the feed line, turned the car off waited about 20 min i had no drop (meaning everything after the pinch held pressure) once i released the pinch it instantly dropped
that lead me to the fuel pump
it ended up being the clamps from under the sending unit to the pump once i replaced those the pressure held and was a bit higher pre-start
i did replace the fpr before i did this test (or even thought of it) if there wasnt a drop i would have pinched the return line (and if there was a drop then it would mean fpr isnt holding or leaking injector )
i also replaced the cam sensor with a junk yard one that ohmed lower then my current one at the same temperature even though the original was with in spec
so far all seems good well see if it will stay that way
my solution (so far) was
-even though i was getting fuel i had no idea if it was the right pressure unless you hook up a gauge theres no way of knowing for sure
-with the car running i pulled the fuel pump fuse until it dies
-turn off ignition replace the fuse
-cut the fuel line between the rail and filter
-added a brass T hooked up a gauge make sure your clamps are tight or else it will leak or spray when pressurized
-turn ignition to on/run then off then back on a couple times to re-pressurize
pre-start FSM calls for 43 psi idle should be about 34 psi
i was only getting about 35psi pre-start and 32psi idle
BUT my pressure was NOT holding after shut down it drop to about 20 psi with in 30 min
so either injectors, fpr, fuel pump or fuel were leaking,
to test i pressurized fuel system, pinched the feed line, turned the car off waited about 20 min i had no drop (meaning everything after the pinch held pressure) once i released the pinch it instantly dropped
that lead me to the fuel pump
it ended up being the clamps from under the sending unit to the pump once i replaced those the pressure held and was a bit higher pre-start
i did replace the fpr before i did this test (or even thought of it) if there wasnt a drop i would have pinched the return line (and if there was a drop then it would mean fpr isnt holding or leaking injector )
i also replaced the cam sensor with a junk yard one that ohmed lower then my current one at the same temperature even though the original was with in spec
so far all seems good well see if it will stay that way
Thanks for the input on the clamps, when I replaced the pump I never even thought of checking them. I'll remove my back seat and see how they look.
I also have to check injectors, that will be after I test for spark and test coil packs.
So i'm down to checking:
Spark
Coils
Fuel Pump Clamps
Injectors
IACV
TB
I'll post some results in the next few days, thanks everyone!
11-15-2011, 01:15 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
11-15-2011, 02:34 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Denver From Houston Lived in Boston
Posts: 242
thanks for the response. I will take off and clean TB as well as IACV when I test for spark. I cleaned them about a year ago but you never know.
I have also replaced my FPR recently so I know that's not the problem. The car is getting fuel, I can smell it not being burned.
I have also replaced my FPR recently so I know that's not the problem. The car is getting fuel, I can smell it not being burned.
11-15-2011, 05:59 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phx, Arizona
Posts: 20
i would check out the basics first. fuel/spark... i had a similar situation but i had just replaced water pump and it ran for like 3 weeks and wouldnt turn on any more. everyone was telling me it was electrical, i was tested fuel. checked out. checked spark.. no spark at none of the the plugs, that told me either one or 2 things, either all coils went out or timing/sensor fail... pulled off timing cover. and it had jumped 3-4 links.. not saying thats your issue but i would atleast check the spark. 2 ways. easy way pull a couple coils of one at a time still plugged in with a spark plug attached or a screwdriver thats groiunded and you should see it spark. 2nd option use a mutimeter to check if the ecu is sending a signal. if your not getting spark in any of them its not a spark issue something isnt allowing the ecu to send it a spark.. sensor/timing/ecu... im sure there could be a few more different variables but im new to maximas but worked on hondas for a real long time. all motor have the same basic functions
11-15-2011, 08:05 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 235
your car is manual right ? just curious have you tried "popping the clutch" to get it started? when i have had hard starting issues, on a hill or if i have a friend with me, it would start instantly when i pop it im not really sure what it will tell you if it did start or didnt, but if it did hopefully your car would throw a code or something to help you get closer to the problem ,
also i know this maybe a dumb question but you are using the correct key right? my friend has a problem like this on her lexus a bunch of her guys friends couldnt figure it out for days, i went over there and i started it right up using the correct chipped key
also i know this maybe a dumb question but you are using the correct key right? my friend has a problem like this on her lexus a bunch of her guys friends couldnt figure it out for days, i went over there and i started it right up using the correct chipped key
11-16-2011, 08:33 AM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
The tach jumping is just the engine turning when trying to start.
No problems with any of my grounds, I added 3 4-gauge wires as well.
Last edited by Swazey; 11-16-2011 at 08:41 AM.
11-16-2011, 08:34 AM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
i would check out the basics first. fuel/spark... i had a similar situation but i had just replaced water pump and it ran for like 3 weeks and wouldnt turn on any more. everyone was telling me it was electrical, i was tested fuel. checked out. checked spark.. no spark at none of the the plugs, that told me either one or 2 things, either all coils went out or timing/sensor fail... pulled off timing cover. and it had jumped 3-4 links.. not saying thats your issue but i would atleast check the spark. 2 ways. easy way pull a couple coils of one at a time still plugged in with a spark plug attached or a screwdriver thats groiunded and you should see it spark. 2nd option use a mutimeter to check if the ecu is sending a signal. if your not getting spark in any of them its not a spark issue something isnt allowing the ecu to send it a spark.. sensor/timing/ecu... im sure there could be a few more different variables but im new to maximas but worked on hondas for a real long time. all motor have the same basic functions
11-16-2011, 08:39 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
your car is manual right ? just curious have you tried "popping the clutch" to get it started? when i have had hard starting issues, on a hill or if i have a friend with me, it would start instantly when i pop it im not really sure what it will tell you if it did start or didnt, but if it did hopefully your car would throw a code or something to help you get closer to the problem ,
also i know this maybe a dumb question but you are using the correct key right? my friend has a problem like this on her lexus a bunch of her guys friends couldnt figure it out for days, i went over there and i started it right up using the correct chipped key
also i know this maybe a dumb question but you are using the correct key right? my friend has a problem like this on her lexus a bunch of her guys friends couldnt figure it out for days, i went over there and i started it right up using the correct chipped key
I am using the original key. I have 96, no abs, no security and definately NO chipped key lol
11-17-2011, 07:20 AM
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
well lets hope that I don't have spark, I have no way of checking compression or timing myself. It's been raining here the past 2 days, hopefully tonight I'll be able to get some testing done...
11-21-2011, 06:50 AM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Update: 11/21
No spark. I first unplugged the CPS to see if there was a change in the way the car tried to start. No change when unplugging the sensor. Thought that was strange so I tested for spark. No spark in cylinder 1,2 and 6 (all I had time to test). Took the coil packs into my house and tested them with multimeter.
The 2 front and 1 rear bank coil packs are within spec. I will test the other 3 tonight. There was gas on the ends of the plugs and the plug from cylinder 1 had a little oil. The tube gasket must be going on that cylinder. Need to get the car started before I tackle replacing the tube seals.
So now what do you guys recommend I do? The plugs looked ok, should I replace them for being fouled so many times from no stars? I will test continuity to the sensors and the pins on the ecu, but I do not know where to start
I checked the fuses under the hood and they do not look blown. I did not use a muiltimeter on them but will tonight to make sure.
I'm starting to freak out a little as I feel this problem is out of my hands. I just want to make sure I have done everything I can before getting the car towed to a mechanic.
The 2 front and 1 rear bank coil packs are within spec. I will test the other 3 tonight. There was gas on the ends of the plugs and the plug from cylinder 1 had a little oil. The tube gasket must be going on that cylinder. Need to get the car started before I tackle replacing the tube seals.
So now what do you guys recommend I do? The plugs looked ok, should I replace them for being fouled so many times from no stars? I will test continuity to the sensors and the pins on the ecu, but I do not know where to start
I checked the fuses under the hood and they do not look blown. I did not use a muiltimeter on them but will tonight to make sure.
I'm starting to freak out a little as I feel this problem is out of my hands. I just want to make sure I have done everything I can before getting the car towed to a mechanic.
11-21-2011, 08:04 AM
#27
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 254
Its flooded, had same problem... Started and moved car in driveway for a weekend vacation, and it sat there all weekend... Crank it over while givin it some gas on and off and have a strong battery... Took about 30 seconds for it to crank over... Hope this helps
11-29-2011, 02:25 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Update 11/29
Finally had some time last night to look into some things:
Looked at the connections on the ECU and almost threw up. I previously took my car to a local mechanic and he had it for 3 weeks because of the hard start problem I've been having. I didn't know he spliced into most of the wires and just electrical-taped them back together. What a d-bag! He never fixed the problem.
Now I have to take out the ECU but I ran into a bit of a hiccup. I thought taking out my stereo would help access the ECU better but there is basically no way to get to the rear bracket bolt to remove the ecu and bracket as 1-piece. So I went to the hardware store and bought an offset screwdriver so I can remove the 1 screw that is holding in the ECU
Removing the ECU IMO is more of a PITA than replacing the knock sensor, poll anyone?
I'm praying that one of the wires has come loose or disconnected due to the d-bag mechanic that said he knew what he was doing. We will see
Looked at the connections on the ECU and almost threw up. I previously took my car to a local mechanic and he had it for 3 weeks because of the hard start problem I've been having. I didn't know he spliced into most of the wires and just electrical-taped them back together. What a d-bag! He never fixed the problem.
Now I have to take out the ECU but I ran into a bit of a hiccup. I thought taking out my stereo would help access the ECU better but there is basically no way to get to the rear bracket bolt to remove the ecu and bracket as 1-piece. So I went to the hardware store and bought an offset screwdriver so I can remove the 1 screw that is holding in the ECU
Removing the ECU IMO is more of a PITA than replacing the knock sensor, poll anyone?
I'm praying that one of the wires has come loose or disconnected due to the d-bag mechanic that said he knew what he was doing. We will see
11-29-2011, 02:28 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
11-29-2011, 03:36 PM
#30
yea mine sounds EXACTLY the same and it's so far looking like it's the ECU.. he's getting his programmer back tonight and is going to see if he can re-program it tomorrow and if that doesn't work then it's fried..
12-12-2011, 04:28 PM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
everything seems to test out fine, i am getting proper voltage to ecu. i thought it might be the coils but they are getting battery voltage. i am at a total loss. car hasnt started for weeks.
my plugs were wet, could they be fouled to the point where they wont start the car? i replaced them about a year ago. i let them sit out over night to dry. no help
my starting problem started about a year after my friend replaced my clutch. i know a not properly cleaned mating surface will cause hard starts, but could it have gotten so bad it has caused it not to start?
i dont know what to do. i just want to get the car started. anyone know of any honest mechanics in the boston area that know maximas or is there anyone here that can help a brother out?
my plugs were wet, could they be fouled to the point where they wont start the car? i replaced them about a year ago. i let them sit out over night to dry. no help
my starting problem started about a year after my friend replaced my clutch. i know a not properly cleaned mating surface will cause hard starts, but could it have gotten so bad it has caused it not to start?
i dont know what to do. i just want to get the car started. anyone know of any honest mechanics in the boston area that know maximas or is there anyone here that can help a brother out?
12-28-2011, 09:15 AM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
finally had some time to work on this nighmare.
I will continue to test wires and ecu in the following weeks. I had no idea what a PITA the ecu is to get out. All the write-ups I found were wrong, especially the ones that say there is 1 screw holding the ecu into the bracket (there are actually 4) And there is no bolt on the firewall side holding in the bracket, just the 2 under the heating duct.
Hopefully I can find the gremlin keeping my car from starting. Wish me luck
I will continue to test wires and ecu in the following weeks. I had no idea what a PITA the ecu is to get out. All the write-ups I found were wrong, especially the ones that say there is 1 screw holding the ecu into the bracket (there are actually 4) And there is no bolt on the firewall side holding in the bracket, just the 2 under the heating duct.
Hopefully I can find the gremlin keeping my car from starting. Wish me luck
12-28-2011, 06:37 PM
#35
Cps and both CKPS tested within spec. Took them out and cleaned - they weren't really that dirty. Ignition switch tested within spec also.
I'm thinking no spark? But why? I haven't checked for spark just yet and don't know how. I'll read up about it and test tomorrow or Tues.
This is what my car used to sound like when trying to start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PPVH...eature=related
This is what it sounds like NOW: NO CODES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpLZzsSXXxo
I'm thinking no spark? But why? I haven't checked for spark just yet and don't know how. I'll read up about it and test tomorrow or Tues.
This is what my car used to sound like when trying to start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PPVH...eature=related
This is what it sounds like NOW: NO CODES
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpLZzsSXXxo
You need to ground the starter. Thats exactly how mine sounded.
.
Last edited by crazy97; 12-28-2011 at 06:41 PM.
12-29-2011, 11:56 AM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 38
Well the CPS at the flywheel WAS covered in gunk/oil/whatever and I took it off and cleaned it like a mother. I didnt get to test that one, but I do know all the other sensors are new. Would soiled plugs alone be enough for it not to spark?
12-29-2011, 05:01 PM
#38
Before you waste any more money on this problem check this thread out.
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=452286
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=452286
12-29-2011, 05:06 PM
#39
Bingo!
This is what caused your problem. I bet you $500 you need to ground your starter or reclean the mating surface of the tranny.
01-20-2012, 07:47 AM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MA
Posts: 540
Crazy, thanks for the link. I am actually very familiar with your thread, I have read it multiple times lol
I haven't had much time to work on this, been busy with work and the only time I can work on the car is at night. It's not getting any warmer either.
I re-cleaned all the grounds and grounding surfaces. Now I have ground wires going to starter, tranny, uim and alternator. Tired to start the car and FINALLY got a code!
p0407, I pulled the CKPS and it did not test within spec. Bought a new one and it tested fine. Installed and still no start. But now the car WANTS to start. It sounds like it did before. Progress...
p0407 came up again, this time I know it's not the sensor and must be the wiring. Checked wiring down by sensor, looks fine. Tested ecu pin and that tested fine. Tested signal coming from sub harness and it was intermittent. I must have a break in a wire in the harness by the strut, not an uncommon problem.
Has anyone cut the wires and ran a similar gauge wire direct from ckps sensor to sub harness? I can test and fish out the faulty wire, but think it would be easier to not deal with all the wires in the harness and run a wire direct.
Thoughts??
Here are some other links that may help others with a similar problem:
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_do.../NTB98-003.pdf
http://www.scribd.com/doc/60291413/9...rness-Breakage
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsor-code.html
I haven't had much time to work on this, been busy with work and the only time I can work on the car is at night. It's not getting any warmer either.
I re-cleaned all the grounds and grounding surfaces. Now I have ground wires going to starter, tranny, uim and alternator. Tired to start the car and FINALLY got a code!
p0407, I pulled the CKPS and it did not test within spec. Bought a new one and it tested fine. Installed and still no start. But now the car WANTS to start. It sounds like it did before. Progress...
p0407 came up again, this time I know it's not the sensor and must be the wiring. Checked wiring down by sensor, looks fine. Tested ecu pin and that tested fine. Tested signal coming from sub harness and it was intermittent. I must have a break in a wire in the harness by the strut, not an uncommon problem.
Has anyone cut the wires and ran a similar gauge wire direct from ckps sensor to sub harness? I can test and fish out the faulty wire, but think it would be easier to not deal with all the wires in the harness and run a wire direct.
Thoughts??
Here are some other links that may help others with a similar problem:
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_do.../NTB98-003.pdf
http://www.scribd.com/doc/60291413/9...rness-Breakage
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsor-code.html
Last edited by Swazey; 01-20-2012 at 07:48 AM. Reason: spacing