036mtmax

iTrader: (11)

Did you clean your existing grounds or run new ones ? If you didn't run new ones, at least two. My car started the same way as yours and after buying a CKPS and still no start i ran a ground and it started perfect. Thanks to Crazy for the help

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

Yes, on my 97 I ran a wire straight from the cranksensor (one on the tranny) to the ecu. Can't remember the pin on the ecu. Just download the manual use a soldering iron. I also wrapped the wire with wire loom protector and routed it through the firewall. Came out very professional cleared code and worked great.

If you have any questions feel free to post and I can respond sunday night. I used a wire of larger gauge than factory because that it what I had on hand. I sautered the new wire to signal wire on the crank sensor I did not disconnect the original signal wire. In my thought process the additional wire won't add any voltage since it's already voltage being supplied to the sensor.

Swazey

Thanks Blakfreestyle. I didn't want to cut any wires unless I had to, I guess I'll try to run a wire 1st without cutting. What about the ground wire? Also, mines on the other sensor...

I have my ecu out so it will be easy to run a wire from this pinout, thanks to pmohr.

Swazey

ran a wire from ckps wires out of ecu ecu directly to sensor, still no start. maybe I messed up the sensor when I installed? it was dark and cold out and I installed from underneath the car. Still getting p0407 but maybe it's because of the cranking and not starting. car sounds like it wants to start more than ever. I'll test sensor in morning to make sure the new sensor is still within spec.
totally stumped

99_Red_SE

Check the security light on the dash. If it stays on solid with the key in the on position you have an immobolizer issue. I spent weeks researching a no start issue only to find out the key was sending a signal the ECU did not like and locked the car down. You do not have to take it to the dealer to be reprogrammed. I called a good locksmith out who fixed my issue and the car fired right up.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Check for Fuel, air and spark first! The fundamentals!

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I'm up cuz I have to work in 2 hours. When I ran a signal wire from the ecu to the crank sensor, I ran it to the sensor on the transmission bell housing. I also did not remove my ecu. I spliced into the harness where it plugs into the ecu.

Also, before adding the signal wire I tested continuity to see if I had a short, and I DID have a short. I no longer think you and I had the same problem because I think my problem was with deteriorating wires in the main wiring harness to the engine and ecu.

I would advise you to re-read this entire thread and check for spark manually. I don't really trust the multi-meter test for the coil packs. There is much info on this site about that being an unreliable test. Try the old way of holding the plug away from a good ground and looking for a physical spark. If you have $$$ I would suggest having a nissan mechanic look at your car. Not saying the dealer but someone familiar with nissans. Your diagnostics aren't done yet...

If you just wanna throw parts at it, it may take forever. Max's have a sophisticated engine, you still have the maf which you can test or swap out, check the harness, check the air intake system for leaks or cracked hoses. Loosen the grounds on the intake manifold, clean them with sandpaper, re-install etc. If you have a short ram or cold air intake, my opinion is that they kill the maf more quickly and allow more dirt than stock. So I have a modified short ram. Still using the stock box/filter just the piping to my intake is aluminum not the stock plastic.

Basically, check all connections for loose or corroded wiring. And don't forget your ecu could be bad. Are you using a scan tool to check for codes? The cel light code takes too long for me so a tool is the way to go.