Clutch Issue / Manual
01-03-2012, 03:17 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 375
Clutch Issue / Manual
97 5spd with 206km, recently noticed an rpm surge when hitting the pedal hard, example flooring the gas at 65mhp will cause a bit of an over-rev until the clutch catches up and power train falls in line. Also similar in lower gears when accelerating above normal. Fluid level is ok albeit with a very slow leak that is hardly noticable and only requires a top-up a couple times a year. (Using Dot 3 Super Heavy Duty Brake fluid to top up.) Very cold here, is this a temperature deal, possibly? What needs to be replaced or what is the cure?
01-03-2012, 05:48 PM
#2
97 5spd with 206km, recently noticed an rpm surge when hitting the pedal hard, example flooring the gas at 65mhp will cause a bit of an over-rev until the clutch catches up and power train falls in line. Also similar in lower gears when accelerating above normal. Fluid level is ok albeit with a very slow leak that is hardly noticable and only requires a top-up a couple times a year. (Using Dot 3 Super Heavy Duty Brake fluid to top up.) Very cold here, is this a temperature deal, possibly? What needs to be replaced or what is the cure?
01-03-2012, 07:59 PM
#6
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Location: Ottawa
Posts: 375
By "stock", I presume you mean OEM from the dealer. To late to call tonite, but I have got to think the price difference will be astronomical. The items I listed are compatible to 4th and 5th generation. Is OEM that big of a deal?
01-03-2012, 08:22 PM
#7
Do a search for the 5th gen clutch replacement and you'll find alot of info on it including the stock numbers for all the parts you will need to do the job.
If you punch each of those numbers into a search separately you'll be surprised how low the prices can be.
You are lucky you got as many miles out of that one as you did, mine is going and it's only at 150k right now, since I'm the third owner I have no idea how it was driven before I got it.
The stock 5th gen is a great way to get better clamping force along with really good reliablity.
Since you are already going in be sure to replace your throwout bearing as well and while you are already in their I would recommend replacing you rear main seal while the tranny is already out, it's well worth it at that mileage to get it out of the way so it doesn't fail later after you put the trans. back in.
If you punch each of those numbers into a search separately you'll be surprised how low the prices can be.
You are lucky you got as many miles out of that one as you did, mine is going and it's only at 150k right now, since I'm the third owner I have no idea how it was driven before I got it.
The stock 5th gen is a great way to get better clamping force along with really good reliablity.
Since you are already going in be sure to replace your throwout bearing as well and while you are already in their I would recommend replacing you rear main seal while the tranny is already out, it's well worth it at that mileage to get it out of the way so it doesn't fail later after you put the trans. back in.
06-27-2013, 04:14 PM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
OK I have the same issue as the thead starter "Rhonster." I have a 98 Maxima SE 5sp... bought it a year ago and put 9,000 miles on it. It has 170k now.
Just recently (couple of weeks ago) when I hit the gas the RPM's go up but the car is not responding well. It's slipping! Eventually it catches up but slowly. If I feather the clutch in 1st and 2nd it's not as bad but if I have to accelerate from a dead stop I'm not going anywhere fast. The RPM's will go up but the car does not accelerate fast at all.
It appears I need a new CLUTCH KIT. I am not going to keep the car for long so I was going to go with a RhinoPac/World Car Clutch Kit on Rock Auto for $108. I don't need anything fancy. I just want her to drive right. There are more expensive Clutch Kits made by Exedy, ACDelco, Valeo, and Beck/Arnley. The price range is from $108 - $160.
Should I also replace the Pressure Plate or just get it resurfaced?
Also should I get a new master and slave cylinder? They are $25 & $20 respectively. The guy doing the work said I just need a clutch kit.
Also I cannot find the Throwout Bearing or the Rear Main Seal on Rock Auto. Are they called something else? I am a novice so please explain like I'm a dummy!
Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
Just recently (couple of weeks ago) when I hit the gas the RPM's go up but the car is not responding well. It's slipping! Eventually it catches up but slowly. If I feather the clutch in 1st and 2nd it's not as bad but if I have to accelerate from a dead stop I'm not going anywhere fast. The RPM's will go up but the car does not accelerate fast at all.
It appears I need a new CLUTCH KIT. I am not going to keep the car for long so I was going to go with a RhinoPac/World Car Clutch Kit on Rock Auto for $108. I don't need anything fancy. I just want her to drive right. There are more expensive Clutch Kits made by Exedy, ACDelco, Valeo, and Beck/Arnley. The price range is from $108 - $160.
Should I also replace the Pressure Plate or just get it resurfaced?
Also should I get a new master and slave cylinder? They are $25 & $20 respectively. The guy doing the work said I just need a clutch kit.
Also I cannot find the Throwout Bearing or the Rear Main Seal on Rock Auto. Are they called something else? I am a novice so please explain like I'm a dummy!
Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
06-27-2013, 04:29 PM
#10
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Location: Ottawa
Posts: 375
there is a lot of stuff to be removed to get to the clutch, so count on some time. Other than that, it's not that big a job. I wouldn't mess with the master/slave setup and you will know more about resurfacing once it is opened up. If you want to wait and see if you need the extra part, your call. Just don't put on a racing clutch, any stock one on eBay or wherever should be fine.
07-03-2013, 03:40 AM
#13
Just did a clutch job on the max last week....first time for me replacing a clutch on any vehicle too. Anyway it took about 3 hrs to get the trans/clutch/flywheel off (i only removed the pass side axle not the drivers) i paid $130 for the perfection clutch kit (lifetime warranty) from Advance Auto, $35 for a f/w resurface and about 3 hrs to reinstall everything without a trans jack, by myself, in a dirt driveway 
Anyway its been about 200 miles and ive done probably 2 3/4 throttle pulls and im very happy with how the pedal and clutch feel.
My two bits worth.
Also make yourself a diagram for the bolts that hold the trans to the engine as some are different lengths, and take a little sandpapter to where the starter mates to the trans so you get a solid stater ground.
Anyway its been about 200 miles and ive done probably 2 3/4 throttle pulls and im very happy with how the pedal and clutch feel.My two bits worth.
Also make yourself a diagram for the bolts that hold the trans to the engine as some are different lengths, and take a little sandpapter to where the starter mates to the trans so you get a solid stater ground.
Last edited by Boothers96; 07-03-2013 at 03:44 AM.
07-03-2013, 05:32 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Just my two cents.
Contrary to what someone above said, doing the clutch yourself is not an easy job unless you have some experience.
I'm pretty experienced, have all the necessary tools and still find it to be a pain in the ***. (I've done it several times now). The worst part by far, for me, is properly lining up the transmission to remate it with the motor.
I use an atv jack and shims to get it lined up correctly, then move the trans and engine together, then use a screwdriver to turn the flywheel so it mates properly.
Anyway, it takes a lot of time. If you are keeping the car for any length of time, I would invest in a quality clutch kit so you don't have to do it again in a year. Paying $100 for a clutch kit scares the hell out of me. Exedy makes a nice Stage 1 clutch kit for about 350. For me, it is not about having a warranty, it is about not having to do the labor again.
If you are going oem, there are two kits. Avoid the cheaper one, it is notoriously inferior.
Make sure that you clean and scuff the mating surfaces on the trans. I used a dremel with the BRASS brush on low speed. Don't use the wire brush because it will damage the surface. I then clean with acetol.
If you don't do this, your car may not restart.
Also, I would suggest that you check the axle seals. This is the time to replace those.
Contrary to what someone above said, doing the clutch yourself is not an easy job unless you have some experience.
I'm pretty experienced, have all the necessary tools and still find it to be a pain in the ***. (I've done it several times now). The worst part by far, for me, is properly lining up the transmission to remate it with the motor.
I use an atv jack and shims to get it lined up correctly, then move the trans and engine together, then use a screwdriver to turn the flywheel so it mates properly.
Anyway, it takes a lot of time. If you are keeping the car for any length of time, I would invest in a quality clutch kit so you don't have to do it again in a year. Paying $100 for a clutch kit scares the hell out of me. Exedy makes a nice Stage 1 clutch kit for about 350. For me, it is not about having a warranty, it is about not having to do the labor again.
If you are going oem, there are two kits. Avoid the cheaper one, it is notoriously inferior.
Make sure that you clean and scuff the mating surfaces on the trans. I used a dremel with the BRASS brush on low speed. Don't use the wire brush because it will damage the surface. I then clean with acetol.
If you don't do this, your car may not restart.
Also, I would suggest that you check the axle seals. This is the time to replace those.
Last edited by Max_Gator; 07-03-2013 at 05:40 AM.
07-03-2013, 05:39 AM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Do a search for the 5th gen clutch replacement and you'll find alot of info on it including the stock numbers for all the parts you will need to do the job.
If you punch each of those numbers into a search separately you'll be surprised how low the prices can be.
You are lucky you got as many miles out of that one as you did, mine is going and it's only at 150k right now, since I'm the third owner I have no idea how it was driven before I got it.
The stock 5th gen is a great way to get better clamping force along with really good reliablity.
Since you are already going in be sure to replace your throwout bearing as well and while you are already in their I would recommend replacing you rear main seal while the tranny is already out, it's well worth it at that mileage to get it out of the way so it doesn't fail later after you put the trans. back in.
If you punch each of those numbers into a search separately you'll be surprised how low the prices can be.
You are lucky you got as many miles out of that one as you did, mine is going and it's only at 150k right now, since I'm the third owner I have no idea how it was driven before I got it.
The stock 5th gen is a great way to get better clamping force along with really good reliablity.
Since you are already going in be sure to replace your throwout bearing as well and while you are already in their I would recommend replacing you rear main seal while the tranny is already out, it's well worth it at that mileage to get it out of the way so it doesn't fail later after you put the trans. back in.
What many mistake for a rms leak is a leak from the half moon seals on the upper oil pan.
Doing that repair is another 3-4 hours worth of work. But you have to drop the trans to do it, so if you have an oil leak that looks like it is coming from where trans and engine meet, you should consider the repair.
07-03-2013, 05:47 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Your posts makes me think that you don't have much experience working on cars. Maybe I'm wrong.
If that's the case, I would set aside the weekend. Take your time, make sure you takes notes of what you take apart and how you did it. Label the parts you take off. Make notes of which bolts go where on the trans.
There will be things that will take you a lot of time to figure out.
It takes me probably about 4-5 hours to turn it around. That's with all the right tools and impacts. And with properly cleaning and prepping the surfaces, cleaning the inside of the trans, etc. And with the trans going back on without much of an issue.
07-03-2013, 09:24 AM
#17
This is absolutely NO JOKE! It was the bigges PITA of the whole job. It took me the better part of an hour just to do this. What i did was lower the car as close to the ground as i could and i tried to use a jack to line it up but it just wasnt working. So i leaned over the drivers side fender, bear hugged it and stabbed it on a one in a million shot lol...Im sure having better tools wouldve made it easier but thats how it worked for me.
07-04-2013, 04:08 AM
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
This is absolutely NO JOKE! It was the bigges PITA of the whole job. It took me the better part of an hour just to do this. What i did was lower the car as close to the ground as i could and i tried to use a jack to line it up but it just wasnt working. So i leaned over the drivers side fender, bear hugged it and stabbed it on a one in a million shot lol...Im sure having better tools wouldve made it easier but thats how it worked for me.
07-06-2013, 04:18 AM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
And I would say it is 85. Feels about like a 85 lb dumbbell.
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