Does a '99 Maxima have any adjustability in the rear for alignment, or should I just purchase a two wheel alignment and save the extra cash?

 

Two wheel all the way.

 

Considering that we don't even have camber and caster adjustment, you should only have to pay half of a two wheel adjustment.

 

^good luck telling that to the shop. Theres a speed shop where I live that does allignments on import tuner. Gonna check them out. Ill call for a price first lol

 

Yah I just got an alignment on my '97 SE. I called them back after driving for a week and said I still get a slight annoying pull to the left. Asked if they could tweak the alignment a little to set it straight. He said no camber or caster on these. He said to swap the wheels from right to left and see if that helps. He said if it doesn't, they should have a look at the front end components. I would have thought they'd check the joints and ball ends when doing the alignment. Haven't swapped the wheels yet.

 

In all honesty, If you replace your important bushings(control arm, sway bar, end links, sub frame) with quality Moog or Energy Suspension bushings you will be as straight as an arrow. I feel like this was another cheapy 4th gen quality to save money grrrrrr. Everyone always says "get an allignment after a coilover install!". I simply took my time and made sure the fenders were exactly the same height and replaced my bushings(half way through at the moment with the sub frame and control arm left) and im straighter than I was with my stock set-up. I wonder if the collars should have been the same thread count and fender height was going to be a little off anyways.....uh oh lol

 

I got into an arguement with the guy at tire kingdom that was trying to charge me for a 4 wheel alignment on my 4th gen. It came down to me saying either show me where you can make adjustments in the back or I'm out of here. He refused to admit being wrong and settled on saying "We'll go ahead and give it to you this time."

 

Every alignment rack needs sensors on all 4 wheels to set your alignment. Set up is the same for any vehicle on the road. Doesn't matter if the rear isn't adjustable, new technology needs to see how the vehicle tracks down the road to set thrust angle so you get a perfectly centered steering wheel. We just purchased a new rack in the body shop, you'd be very surprised at how sensitive these systems are. An alignment is a set fee, no matter how much adjusting is required. Sometimes it's just toe up front, sometimes it's toe, camber and caster, usually the rears keep their alignments, even on IRS set ups. So the process is always the same.

If your going to argue with the shop over how your alignment is done, your starting off on the wrong foot. So unless you've set up and worked on an alignment rack, just drop the car off and let the shop and tech do their job. They're not charging you per/adjustment, they are charging you for the service as a whole.

 

^ good to know, I have often wondered about that too. Especially when they try to sell me on 4 wheel lifetime alignment costs and such. I knew that the rear was unadjustable but didn't know at all how the process was done.

 

Well, in this case, the shop offer "two wheel alignment" and "four wheel alignment" so you do have a choice. In talking with them, they basically said that every car requires a thrust angle check, so they don't really sell the two wheel alignment to anyone. But, they are charging "per adjustment" in this case.

However, I think your suggestion that we should just accept what the shops say is foolish. The number of dishonest shops that will do work you don't need so they can charge you more is at least equal to the number that are honest.

You owe it to yourself to make sure you're not paying for something you don't need. If you don't question it, it's "pump up the bill" at most shops. I don't know how many times I've been in a tire place or maybe at a garage getting something done that requires equipment I don't have and heard them gouging a customer. I usually bite my lip but it seems like the business model at most of them.

 

Had it been explained to me in this manner I would have been a bit more understanding. However, I still see a difference between getting a reading off the back wheels and actually making adjustments to the rear of the car.

 

So, live and learn... after talking with the tire guy and doing some research, it seems like checking all 4 wheels (4 wheel alignment) is probably worthwhile, despite the fact that the rear is fixed. If the rear is off, then a good tech will be setting the front to compensate and avoid the crab walk down the street.

See this explanation of thrust angle: http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm#Thrust Angle

 

from what townfair told me...the rear wheeel alignment is used as a reference for the front. Two wheels alignment is half assed

 

BS. I've worked at a tire shop that did alignments. They use the rear gauges regardless, and charge according to adjustments made. If you were within spec three was no charge. If they offer a two wheel alignment then the hang 4 gauges andcharge for adjusting two. Any more is BS.

 

even according to what you say, your still only adjusting the front. Toe, camber or castor - it's all in the front only. The charge is for putting sensors on the rear. I don't think it's a good idea to pay for the rear alignment, when there is not aligning being done to the rear.
I understand the shop trying to pay off their new equipment, but the knowledgeable person out there will be the judge, of whether or not that's worth it to him. Someone started off on the wrong foot that's true. Time will tell who that person was.

 

As a Service Advisor and Tech III of 6 years, I can tell you that @ our shop REGARDLESS of front or rear adjustments, we charge a flat fee of $69.99 for Camber, Caster & Toe in all 4 wheels. If there is only a front wheel alignment, you still pay the $69.99 since that is the labor rate FOR the alignment.

Some shops charge $79.99 and all they adjust is Toe, Toe & Go, is what its refereed to.

If the shop offers you a 2 or 4 wheel alignment, then by all means go with a 2 wheel, but if its a 4 wheel adjustment, or even for them JUST to check the rear out for you, let them proceed with it. Some people benefit from getting sensors thrown on, and find out there's an issue with there rear end whether is being a strut issue &/or a rear frame problem.

 

I pay half that for my fronts.