4th Gen buying tips/guide
02-20-2012, 07:02 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 22
4th Gen buying tips/guide
I've searched the forums for any sort of buyer's guide on the 4th Gen Maxima but got nothing.
Can I get any recommendations on what to look out for when looking at a gen4?
Are there any specific places to look for rust?
Any common mechanical problems?
Any specific maintenance items to look out for?
Thanks.
Can I get any recommendations on what to look out for when looking at a gen4?
Are there any specific places to look for rust?
Any common mechanical problems?
Any specific maintenance items to look out for?
Thanks.
02-20-2012, 07:47 PM
#3
I've searched the forums for any sort of buyer's guide on the 4th Gen Maxima but got nothing.
Can I get any recommendations on what to look out for when looking at a gen4?
Are there any specific places to look for rust?
Any common mechanical problems?
Any specific maintenance items to look out for?
Thanks.
Can I get any recommendations on what to look out for when looking at a gen4?
Are there any specific places to look for rust?
Any common mechanical problems?
Any specific maintenance items to look out for?
Thanks.
1. Manual transmission models should be checked for excessive axle movement and fluid loss. This indicates improperly preloaded differential carrier bearings, necessitating a new transmission or rebuild.
2. Automatic models should have the fluid checked (color/smell) and should not slip when shifting. Overly firm shifting is common and can be a symptom of the next thing to check...
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mounts is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors?
) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands. 
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck, and whatever Maxima you pick...love it!
Last edited by beegeezy; 02-20-2012 at 08:22 PM.
02-20-2012, 08:04 PM
#4
I can't comment about rust, being in TX, but on the other questions:
1. Manual transmission models should be checked for excessive axle movement and fluid loss. This indicates improperly preloaded differential carrier bearings, necessitating a new transmission or rebuild.
2. Automatic models should have the fluid checked (color/smell) and should not slip when shifting. Overly firm shifting is common and can be a symptom of the next thing to check...
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mount is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors? ) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands.
11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck, and whatever Maxima you pick...love it!
1. Manual transmission models should be checked for excessive axle movement and fluid loss. This indicates improperly preloaded differential carrier bearings, necessitating a new transmission or rebuild.
2. Automatic models should have the fluid checked (color/smell) and should not slip when shifting. Overly firm shifting is common and can be a symptom of the next thing to check...
3. Worn, cracked, torn, or otherwise defective engine and transmission mounts are common. When these mounts are defective they put extra stress on other parts (axles, differential carrier bearings, etc.) and should not be ignored. Typically the front and/or rear mounts are all that need to be replaced. In situations where the car was neglected though, replacing all four mount is a good idea.
4. The valve covers, oil pans, rear main seal, oil pressure switch, and the front crankshaft seal (plus others sometimes) are very prone to leaking after so many years. The valve covers aren't too hard to do if you're semi-experienced, but expect to pay $250-500 for a mechanic to do the job. The real main seal can only be replaced when the transmission is removed, and is easier if the upper oil pan is off too.
5. The original crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer will start to crack and fall apart eventually. Sometimes this is 200k+ miles, sometimes much sooner. If it does fail you will be stranded. Dorman makes an aftermarket pulley that is about 1/3 the cost of the Nissan part.
6. Cars with Bose stereo systems can have problems with the speakers and amplifiers going bad. There is a small amplifier behind each door speaker and each rear deck speaker on these systems. Power antenna masts need to be replaced periodically. The power antenna motor is usually not defective, just the mast. (which is much cheaper)
7. If the car has had oil leaks for some time, the passenger front control arm bushing is probably worn out from oil eating away the rubber. On high mileage cars the control arms, inner/outer tie rods, and sway bar end links should be inspected or just replaced to be on the safe side. This typically makes the car drive much, much better.
8. Speaking of suspension parts, the struts and shocks last typically around 60k miles or so on most cars. Plan on replacing them if they are the originals. Also, you'll need new front strut mounts, front strut bearings, and bellows (boots) to do this job properly. Other parts may need to be replaced too...like the spring isolators. Inspect and replace as necessary.
9. The original alternator can be hit or miss. Sometimes it will last 200k+ miles and other times they have been replaced many times on the car. Rebuilt alternators are very hit or miss as well. Try to get a 100% new one instead. Cleaning and/or adding a few additional (or larger) grounds helps a lot. Many times you'll see easier starting and brighter lights when this is done.
10. The knock sensor is very temperamental in these cars. Many people (myself included) have had luck with the cheap knock sensors (knock off knock sensors?
) on ebay. The part from Nissan is $$$. It's an easy part to replace, if you have small hands. 11. 1999 models had issues with their ignition coil packs. If buying a '99 find out if they have been replaced. New ones are ~$100 each.
The rest of the issues are pretty much issues with all cars. Inspect the brakes, A/C, power steering, exhaust, and cooling systems. Replace the fluids and filters as recommended by Nissan. Clean, straight cars are usually better than a wrecked car, etc.
Good luck, and whatever Maxima you pick...love it!
outstanding quide/writeup very good points to look for
02-21-2012, 08:40 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 22
Thank you guys!
What do you guys think of this car, I may be looking at it tommorow.
What do you think? Aside from the hideous wheels (easily changed) and the HID's in halogen housings, I think its pretty nice. He's asking $2000.
What do you guys think of this car, I may be looking at it tommorow.
super clean 1996 nissan maxima...... need gone asap just bought another car and have no need for it...... car is in excellent condition nothing wrong with it..... here is a list of what it has....
color ext: black,color int: grey, paint is in exellent condition must see.... hid head lights, tinted windows, power windows power locks power mirrors...... alarm system...... like i said in exeellent just needs a new driver..... i just bought a 2012 camry so dont need it no more....... it has 120xxx miles and automatic trans...... never had a problem with it...... need gone asap.......
color ext: black,color int: grey, paint is in exellent condition must see.... hid head lights, tinted windows, power windows power locks power mirrors...... alarm system...... like i said in exeellent just needs a new driver..... i just bought a 2012 camry so dont need it no more....... it has 120xxx miles and automatic trans...... never had a problem with it...... need gone asap.......
Last edited by Maxima08; 02-21-2012 at 08:45 AM.
02-21-2012, 07:22 PM
#6
If you learn to do your own work (or already do) then they are great cheap cars...easy to do almost any repair and plenty of help online.
02-22-2012, 09:55 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 366
For the miles on the car the price is fair...assuming it hasn't been wrecked and the transmission shifts well. Are you going to do any repairs yourself or have a mechanic do them? If you do your own work a 4th gen Maxima is a great car. If you don't then I personally believe it is a terrible car. You can easily spend what you pay for one of these cars on repairs if you don't turn your own wrenches. That makes these throw away cars in my book. Buy cheap and abandon when they break down.
If you learn to do your own work (or already do) then they are great cheap cars...easy to do almost any repair and plenty of help online.
If you learn to do your own work (or already do) then they are great cheap cars...easy to do almost any repair and plenty of help online.
218k and still beating ricers and would be Mustangs.... in my AUTOMATIC!
02-22-2012, 10:45 AM
#9
just make sure you dont pay $9000 for one...
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2849646664.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2849646664.html
02-22-2012, 02:54 PM
#11
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