OBX V2 Headers on 4th gen
OBX V2 Headers on 4th gen
As I'm sure as some of you know, I bought OBX V2's for my car. Now, my previous setup is a budget Y pipe, cattman 2.5'' with a magnaflow muffler. It had a strong low end and fell on it's face up top.
After the install, my mid-range and top definitely increased. The pedal felt so much more responsive. This was definitely worth all the time and hassle. Thanks to all the org members who have helped me out!
BTW, my old setup rasped really badly. After headers, rasp gone. Although, you can hear my cattman exhaust banging.
After the install, my mid-range and top definitely increased. The pedal felt so much more responsive. This was definitely worth all the time and hassle. Thanks to all the org members who have helped me out!
BTW, my old setup rasped really badly. After headers, rasp gone. Although, you can hear my cattman exhaust banging.
Last edited by VisciousMo; Feb 21, 2012 at 08:54 PM.
Next time you're in Houston, You need to look me up.....So I can fix that banging Cattman catback.....I'm surprised you didn't fix that while you were working those OBX's on to your car!
My car is from Ohio so it has a lot of rust. The bolts were rusted but they came out just fine. I PB blasted them about a week ago, and another time 20 minutes prior to removal. Grinding of the cross member is also needed for a little clearance, it's not much.
DEAL!
DEAL!
About $380 depending on where you buy. http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...-SYSTEM/Detail
http://www.rsaperformance.com/obxexhesy02n.html?102363
http://www.rsaperformance.com/obxexhesy02n.html?102363
So you took off the crossmember and the UIM, eh? Did you have fun removing the OEM heatshields? 
I just noticed that this is the obx for vq35de. Is it plug & play to use in 4th gen with vq30de? I means its ok for little grinding in the x member, but how about the install to cylinder head & the rest exhaust parts?
Good job man....and for the last freaking time (for the noobs) 3.5 headers bolt on to 3.0s just fine and 3.0 headers bolt up to the 3.5 just fine. No major modification needed.....use ur brain sometimes or the search
but that question has been asked 1000000000000 times. It wouldnt hurt to use the search function...that's what its there 4
Last edited by datdude20; Feb 23, 2012 at 11:58 AM.
heres the link
http://www.ssaccessories.com/servlet...EXHAUST/Detail
http://www.ssaccessories.com/servlet...EXHAUST/Detail
.
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post....
I see you lookin'
Last edited by aackshun; Feb 24, 2012 at 11:58 AM.
Open Loop Mode = When the car does not use O2's to maintain AFR, it's a default rich map.
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post.... I see you lookin'
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post....
I see you lookin'Open loop = heavy load, WOT, etc. In this mode the ecu doesn't care about any sensors regarding the A/F mixture, it simply resorts to a defaulted map which dumps more fuel than needed to remain safe.
In closed loop the ECU takes readings from the stock narrowband 02's and compensates to try and achieve a preprogrammed mixture. This is typically around stoich on stock ecu cars.
And Moeed, that garage sure does look familiar ;-)
Open Loop Mode = When the car does not use O2's to maintain AFR, it's a default rich map.
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's at WOT you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post.... I see you lookin'
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's at WOT you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post....
I see you lookin'
MAF signal conditioning isn't the only way to control AFR. Though that is how most of the people on here are tuned. When you condition the MAF signal the timing fluctuates. The other way is controlling the injectors pulse width or duration with an emanage. (idk how UTEC or SMT-6 does its work, I assume they control the injectors similarly)
See this is where MAF signal conditioning comes in handy. Those of us with larger mafs need to be able to adjust AFR in closed loop and do so by playing with the MAF signal.
lol
Open Loop Mode = When the car does not use O2's to maintain AFR, it's a default rich map.
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post.... I see you lookin'
The only way to control AFR then is via MAF signal conditioning, which is how the VAFC works.
So to properly adjust AFR's you can't have the car in closed loop because it will still make adjustments in it's own accord because of the readings from the O2 sensor.
I may be speaking incorrectly, the whole piggyback thing isn't my cup of tea w/ these vehicles, but I'm like 70% confident what I said rings true.
Edit: Watch schmellyfart pwn me w/ his post....
I see you lookin'now I am running on dastek unichip type Q. I don't know what methods that dastek use to tune the afr, but since the dyno & tuning I can read that my car runs on 12,5-14,7. Mostly it got 12,X on WOT and 14,7 on cruising.
anyway what do you think the best engine management mods besides of piggyback? Now I am considering to get these header and e-manage ultimate after my car get home
About $380 depending on where you buy. http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...-SYSTEM/Detail
http://www.rsaperformance.com/obxexhesy02n.html?102363
http://www.rsaperformance.com/obxexhesy02n.html?102363
oh and about the cross member...i didnt have to move that anywhere from what i'm aware of...just had to remove one of the buns from the sensors...but i mean, who needs sensors these days. lol
whats the percentage of maximas who have a USIM and are boosted though...
They do fit...i just didn't bother to put them on...I'll put them back on for tuning though...