interior lights dont work. as well as accesories. i already checked possible fuses
Subscribemy dome and map light still work. and my gauges still work. my climate control lights up but doesnt blow
my gauge lights, radio, door clearance lights, fog light, and cig lighter dont have any power. and like i said, my climate cntrl turns on, but the blower isnt blowing.
i know it has to be some fuse. i checked the 145a fuse located next to battery. when i was unscrewing the screw, my dome light was flickering, so i figured it wasnt that fuse.
any ideas?
my gauge lights, radio, door clearance lights, fog light, and cig lighter dont have any power. and like i said, my climate cntrl turns on, but the blower isnt blowing.
i know it has to be some fuse. i checked the 145a fuse located next to battery. when i was unscrewing the screw, my dome light was flickering, so i figured it wasnt that fuse.
any ideas?
i checked majority. like accessories and such that would be the cause. but it doesnt make sense that all the lights and acc would not work. unless they are powered off one.
oh, and my windows and electronic locks dont work. my horn and wipers dont work either
oh, and my windows and electronic locks dont work. my horn and wipers dont work either
Senior Member
There is a fuse under the hood, 65 amps that powers the cigar lighter, the blower motor and more. It also powers the windshield wipers, so if they work the fuse is ok.
It is a big square one, the front most along the fender. The cover is labeled "FL65A ACC".
It is a big square one, the front most along the fender. The cover is labeled "FL65A ACC".
well, it turned out to be the 140a fuse. but when we put a new one in, it automatically blew. so im think short somewhere. just gotta find it... gonna be fun. maybe ill just pick up new sub harness and fuse box and try that.
i got a new battery today too, so i know its not that.
but ill check the other fuses too and relays.
but ill check the other fuses too and relays.
Senior Member
It takes a real nasty short to blow a 140 amp fuse. The alternator is on that fuse. If the alternator has a shorted diode, that would do it.
Senior Member
New battery means nothing...I've bought 4 batteries in 7 years (for various cars) 2 of them were bad when I bought them
ok. ill check alternator.
maybe its time for a new one too. also, ill check volts while car is running.
maybe its time for a new one too. also, ill check volts while car is running.
Senior Member
alternators on our cars tend to kick the bucket... if you're on your original one, take it out of the car and take it to an AutoZone or something for testing.
Senior Member
I went to sell my alternator, original from 97 se, took it to autozone and he ran it 10 times and it ran quiet and performed like brand new.
im thinking bad coilpack. i did some research and found this- http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...trol-fuse.html
post 6 to be specific.
maybe related to misfire code as well.
i also know that one of my wires to my injectors has been exposed slightly and somewhat corroded. ill check that out too.
post 6 to be specific.
maybe related to misfire code as well.
i also know that one of my wires to my injectors has been exposed slightly and somewhat corroded. ill check that out too.
Step 1: Use one of these to make a temporary fuse for the 140a circuit: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ATCFH12-5.html I'm sure you can get one and a handful of 40a ATC fuses from your local stereo shop for a few bucks.
Step 2: Look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, it should tell you all the fuses on that circuit. Unplug all of them.
Step 3: Turn on the car and add one fuse at a time until one shorts. Use the wiring diagram to figure out what items on that circuit.
Step 4: Repair or replace the faulty component.
Done.
Edit: Actually, I just looked at the wiring diagram. The only non fused item on the 140a main circuit is the alternator. (I'm assuming that is what "charge" means on the diagram.) If that is the case then unless you have a shorted wire, which I doubt, then you have a bad alternator...as Dennis suggested. You could disconnect the charging wire from the alternator to easily test that theory. With it disconnected the rest of the components should work fine. If so, time to go alternator shopping.
Step 2: Look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, it should tell you all the fuses on that circuit. Unplug all of them.
Step 3: Turn on the car and add one fuse at a time until one shorts. Use the wiring diagram to figure out what items on that circuit.
Step 4: Repair or replace the faulty component.
Done.

Edit: Actually, I just looked at the wiring diagram. The only non fused item on the 140a main circuit is the alternator. (I'm assuming that is what "charge" means on the diagram.) If that is the case then unless you have a shorted wire, which I doubt, then you have a bad alternator...as Dennis suggested. You could disconnect the charging wire from the alternator to easily test that theory. With it disconnected the rest of the components should work fine. If so, time to go alternator shopping.

Senior Member
If you put a new fuse in and it blows out you got a short. Check all of the fuses from the dashboard to the engine bay. Tracing the wire down will take sometime.
well, im not getting any charge whatsoever. i took alternator to oreillys and it tested good.
maybe im not getting a charge because i dont have the 140a fuse in? but i also didnt know if im supposed to have a plastic or non-metallic piece between the terminal and the alternator. so i made one because maybe it was shorting out there. but still no charge. keep in mind i still havent put a fuse in the main spot. so as of now, the car sits dead
maybe im not getting a charge because i dont have the 140a fuse in? but i also didnt know if im supposed to have a plastic or non-metallic piece between the terminal and the alternator. so i made one because maybe it was shorting out there. but still no charge. keep in mind i still havent put a fuse in the main spot. so as of now, the car sits dead
Senior Member
If you don't have the 140 amp fuse installed, you don't have a connection between the alternator and the battery. The post on the alternator cannot touch the case so an insulator is needed.
And without that fuse, there are a lot of other things that won't work - windows, seats, a/c and the blower motor, cigarette lighter, horns and more.
And without that fuse, there are a lot of other things that won't work - windows, seats, a/c and the blower motor, cigarette lighter, horns and more.
Quote:
And without that fuse, there are a lot of other things that won't work - windows, seats, a/c and the blower motor, cigarette lighter, horns and more.
But those things will work off the battery (with the fuse installed) if he leaves the alternator disconnected. Try that first...Originally Posted by DennisMik
If you don't have the 140 amp fuse installed, you don't have a connection between the alternator and the battery. The post on the alternator cannot touch the case so an insulator is needed.And without that fuse, there are a lot of other things that won't work - windows, seats, a/c and the blower motor, cigarette lighter, horns and more.
got a 120a fuse put in. its all oreillys had right now til i can order one. it runs. but running shows 13.5 volts. so somewhere something is a little messed up.
and i put my ground kit back on which helped
and i put my ground kit back on which helped
Senior Member
Nissan says 13.8 is the minimum, should be more like 14.2. Many people say that they get 13.5 volts when running with a rebuilt alternator. It seems to work out for them.