Hey guys, new to forum and I have to say i am impressed with the Maxima!
I was given a 1995 with a Vq30de and a manual with 300k miles on her and I just rebuilt her and reinstalled the motor... since the overhaul the car does not like to start right up like it allways did before. While cranking the car seems to want to start she will spit and sputter and sometimes start up with no issues she runs strong and beautifully just sounds as if she is out of time of which I even took it apart just to make sure. I have found a bad ECT sensor of which has been replaced and still no go no fire right up. there is a popping noise in the intake and she bog down when this popping noise occurs WHAT gives? Did I disturb something that should not have been disturbed? she has new heads, pistons, oil pan due to some jackwagon with a tube of Jb weld, new chains, tensioners, I am at a loss any thoughts of where I should check?

 

Another Maxima down because the engine/trans mating surface wasn't sanded down.

 

Thoroughly cleaned, even took 120grt block to it because of white crusty stuff, continuity checked and no issues with grounding

 

Runs fine when started though? If you push start it does it fire up with no problems?

 

I'll have to check that, keep in mind the only running this car has done has been driveway idling and break in to check for leaks as she is still on stands. I will get back to you on that.

 

Check and clean all the grounding points, and check for an intake leak(s)....

 

I have done some open throttle revs with her and no hesitation, nice and smooth.

 

Push start is fine, but is really annoying as I am a perfectionist. pushed her to about 10mph, popped the clutch and she went beautifully. this long crank and weird starting garbage has to stop. no trouble codes thus far. and this is with a Snap On MT2500. thoughts? I am currently running through grounds to ensure cleanliness and a solid connection.

 

Grounding is 100% your problem. The only real fix is to remove the trans/engine again and take a wire wheel to the mating surfaces.
A temp fix would be to run another/couple ground wires from the battery to starter/engine/trans mounting bolts. A minimum of 4ga wire is needed.
I say temp fix because it won't start as perfect as doing it the right way.

 

Problem is that i did that with the engine and trans... I have been working on cars for almost 25 years and I noticed the FEW grounds for the engine management, didn't seem right So I made sure that she was clean. Not only that Aluminum doesnt fair well when exposed to the atmosphere. it will oxidize Quickly. Grounding cannot be the problem because I have also run an extra 2 ground cables one attached directly to the trans to the framerail and the other running from same grounding point on trans to the cable lead on the head; both 2 gauge cable. I even went so far as to add 4 etxra grounds attaching to the harness at the intake manifold one to the head, one to the plenum and 2 to the framerail all 10 guage wire. This is a new one to me.

 

Well either way I will yank the motor again, and do a double check, one of the brand new tensioners crapped out. I Really hate doing the same thing twice... Thanks for the suggestions I will keep you updated and let you know.

 

The Maxima is very finicky with grounding to the starter when the trans/engine have been separated. It only seems to happen with manual transmissions though. This is why it push starts fine.
For extra ground wires to be effective they need to come directly off the battery.
What I normally try is using a good qaulity set of jumper cables. Attach both the positive and negative leads on the one end to the negative battery terminal. Then the other end attach one lead to the 17mm bolt holding the starter in and the other lead to one of the trans/engine mounting bolts towards the front of the engine.

 

Problem is when you ground directly off the battery this leaves the vehicle prone to being dependant on battery condition. Yes Modern cars today have the battery as integral to the effective circuit, but a GOOD chassis ground is worth it weight in gold this is from 25 years of working on cars talking. I see your point by using a good set of cables to mock up a ground system not bad way to check. Wish I had thought of it. I'll let you know

 

Ok, I used a good set of 2/0 cables to mock up ground system and she started up with no trouble. I hate to be such a nay-sayer but wow What a difference it makes!!! Ok now that I have re-routed grounding cable she is starting better. I have had some severe weather here and I have needed to wait a few days to even accomplish a simple task as this. I say you are never too old to learn something new. I have created a ground system that does not rely on the battery condition by grounding directly to the chassis as well as thru the negative terminal of the battery. Let me know if anyone has done this and your thoughts.








She is dirty right now which will be cleaned up after all this...

 

Ok apparently the picture I loaded didnt show So I will try again
ok what am I doing wrong? Have loaded the pictures twice and still they dont show WTF?!?!?!

 

How exactly are you loading the pictures?

 

via copy & paste

 

For pictures you take, photobucket is the easiest way. YOu upload the picture and the copy the "direct link". Press the little yellow postage button on the text box here and then paste it. For pictures already online, copy the image address and same process

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7806518&type=3
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7806518&type=3
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7806518&type=3
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7806518&type=3
here goes nothing here are the links, I have many more pictures here for this car if you want to see them let me know
also to let you know the ring terminal location next to air box and battery has been drilled out an tapped to accept a larger 8x1.25mm thread bolt that will allow a tighter grip on the frame.

 

question on the sanding between engine/trans - I just did a swap and kept my auto trans - didnt sand, but surfaces were clean....car started (cranked slowly), I shut it off and now wont start again....trying your jumper cable test now, any recommendations other than yanking it again?!

 

Nope! Just as Max Joe says true fix is to pull it again and take a wire wheel to it till you see shiny metal.

 

Ok guys just for future reference also make Absolutely sure you threads to the block where the big bolts go in are also clean. and to help future corrosion from setting in a tube of NO-OX is available at any Electrical supplier once placed in coupled with grinding wheel to block face and bell housing casing grounding issues should never arise again... Hope this helps

 

That set of links is impressive. I went through all 84 pics, like a storybook, it spoke to me. Wish I had the downtime to attempt something near as impressive.