DizzyEdge

Hey guys, so a couple of months ago I left work, got in my max and it wouldn't crank. It appeared to have normal power, but turning the key did nothing, no click, nothing. I got our equivalent of AAA to come give me a boost, and again, nothing, while being boosted turning the key did nothing. Eventually it got towed to my house, and being that it was winter I decided to take the bus for a while rather than trying to work on a car in the snow. In the meantime I took the battery to the store I got it from, they tested it, they said it was ok but honestly I don't trust their analysis because as far as I can tell the kid only tested the volts, and didn't load test it. Then on a rare warm day I took out the starter, got it tested, it was fine, put it back in.

Fast forward 2 months to this weekend. I trickle charged the battery 48 hrs, put it in the car, and boom, it started. I test drove it twice, and started it probably 5 times, but then a few hours later, wouldn't start.

I decided to take a closer look at voltages. I believe this morning it was at 12.55v, no start. I trickle charged it 8 hrs, and it measured 12.83v. Took it out, hooked it up, and confirmed 12.83, and also stuck my leads where the battery wire connects to the clamps, and the wire ends was also getting 12.83. I then attempted to start it 7 times. It wouldn't start. Each time I held the key to start for 5 seconds, then off for 5 seconds. After the 7 times the voltage had fallen to 12.3v. I then set up my multimeter so I could watch it as I tried to start the car. It started at 12.3v, but as I held the key to start for 5 seconds it slowly dropped down to 11.9v, but once I release the key it came back up to 12.3v. I also believe, but can't 100% remember, that at some point yesterday night after charging it on both 10A and 2A, I had it up over 13v, and it still wouldn't start.

On one hand I think the battery, but on the other even with a destroyed battery a boost should have let the car crank, wouldn't it? It seems if the starter is ok, and a boost fails to start the car, then it points to ignition switch, bad ground, or some alarm lockout weirdness. Keep in mind it started and ran fine a bunch of times over a 4 hr period yesterday.

Is there any way to test the ground? maybe something like red multimeter lead on the + terminal and black lead on the body beside where the negative cable connects to the body? (assuming I scrape any corrosion/paint off so I am touching bare metal). I'm also concerned about burning something up playing with grounding, any tips?

Thanks so much

Laevateinn

iTrader: (3)

Auto or stick?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

This. Auto has a neutral safety switch, try starting in neutral rather than park. Stick has a clutch inhibitor switch that can go bad or lose the plastic contact pad from the pedal itself.
Have you checked for voltage for voltage at the starter signal wire while "cranking". Use a jumper wire from the solenoid signal to the battery positive post.

DizzyEdge

Sorry I should have mentioned that. It's auto. I've tried it in neutral, no start, and if this means anything, when the ignition is turned on tapping the brake makes the disengaging-the-shift-lock click.


"Have you checked for voltage for voltage at the starter signal wire while "cranking". Use a jumper wire from the solenoid signal to the battery positive post."


I am taking this to be two separate tasks? ie check to see if there's voltage at the starter signal wire, and/or ensure there's voltage at that wire by using a jumper? or am I not understanding this correctly?

Thanks!