Blown Head Gasket
05-03-2012, 07:07 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Blown Head Gasket
OK guys here we go... I will describe as best I can!
96' Maximap with 257k!
About 2 months ago my car overheated (temp gauge went through the roof.) 1 of the hoses to the radiator disconnecetd. I reconnected it. I put water/antifreeze in it but it would leak out and I would fill up over and over as the days went by. Then it was fine for a cpl weeks.
I was driving on the HW and the car bogged down. It went into "Safe Mode" and I couldn't go past 2k RPM's (5sp.) (This happened 2 years ago but I reset the ECU and I was fine for 2 years.) I got off the exit and pulled over. The car was smoking bad under the hood, ran weak until I shut it down, knocked and pinged real bad. I was inspecting (trying to anyway) the engine and I unscrewed the oil cap. There was white smoke coming from the opening when I removed the cap. I let it cool down for about a half hour and then I started it back up. It was pinging bad still, running very weak, and running very rough. Finally it stalled. Let it rest and restarted the car (same symptoms.) Finally I was able to get almost home. I pulled over, let it cool a little, took the radiator cap off and white smoke shot through the radiator (where you pour in coolant or water) like a volcano erupting. It was a HUGE cloud of smoke like a giant smoke screen. I let it cool down once again and finally drove home (about 3 miles.)
Car is still in safe mode 2 months later (resetting the ECU didn't work this time around.) I am driving it to work every day which is about 4-5 miles. It gets me to and from but barely. Here is a typical day:
* Start in the morning: It will start up and stall a few times and then finally idle. Before I can get the car to stay on it will idle really low and bog, choke, stutter big time. When it finally starts and stays on I can drive it to work (about 4 miles in stop and go traffic.) Again only at a max of 2k rpm's so I can go about 43 MPH max. Sometimes it stalls and sometimes it will get me there with no stalling - luckily I have a 5sp so I tend to pop the clutch whiloe I am still moving!
* If I try to drive further (which I have tried) I run the risk of stalling at a light or it will cut off while driving (usually when I slow down and throw it in neutral to coast)
* Most of the time at red lights it will have inconsistant idle rpm's (anywhere from 1700 to 500ish.)
* The longer I drive (just a few miles) the lower the car idles at a red light. Sometimes it will stall and then I have to restart. This can take a few minutes with about 10-15 cranks and I can smell gas (flooding it???) Last week I cranked it so much I killed the battery - got a jump and got her home - less than a mile away.
* The car knocks and pings badly and gets worse the longer I drive it at any given time (engine just feels weak.) It even knocks and pings as soon as I start it up.
* The other day I drove home from work (the time it stalled and I started it so much I killed the battery I had to get a jump) and when I got home I let it idle and run for a while to charge the battery back up. I went inside and it was idling fine (low) for about 15 minutes BUT I know if I tried to drive it I may have been able to go a mile or 2 and then I may have stalled again.
* White smoke DOES come from the exhaust when I try to start it but it does subside when the car finally starts and stays on (takes about 5 cranks.)
* I noticed there is oil on the top of the engine (I don't remember seeing this prior to a cpl months ago) right at the engine block (meaning if you put 2 bricks together the leak is coming from the spot where they meet and touch each other.) Also on the left side (looking at the engine with hood up) of the engine.
* AutoZone pulled the codes 2 months ago. Here they are:
* P1445 - Evap canister purge volume control valve
* P0325 - Knock sensor (had this code for a long time)
* P0136 - Oxygen sensor - bank 2
* P1105 - Map/Baro Pressure switch solenoid valve
* P0400 - EGR - no/low flow detected
* P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault
I know I shouldn't have driven it but the car is old and she has a ton of miles on her. I'm far from a mechanic but I do have a pretty good feel for my car. I don't know if it is worth trying to fix it.
Lastly a buddy at work recommended using Seafoam to clean out the injectors etc.. and the safe mode incident happened right after I put it in my gas tank. I don't know if that is just a coincidence...
I know you guys are gonna give me slack but I HAD to get to work and taking it to am mechanic or dealer was gonna be a waste in my opinion. The dealer was probably gonna start with the codes and try to replace everything that needs a new sensor. That alone would cost hundreds if not a few grand....
I hope I gave you all enough info on the problem. I have spent a few hours reading the posts before I posted my situation. From what I gather it sounds like a Blown Head Gasket. How long can I drive it (I'm driving to and fro to work 5 days a week) and is there a quick fix to make it better for the time being? I think it's time for a new car! It's a shame cause there is a lot of new stuff on the car...alternator, starter, brakes, good tires and rims, replaced calipers, front axels, new shocks/struts, etc...
I found this mechanic on Craig'st List that used to be a Nissan mechanic and he has been helpful telling me possible problems. He said blown head gaskets are uncommon in this car so he is not sold on that problem. He lives an hour away and never saw the car - just going by what I am telling him. He was thinking possibly bad coil packs. He explained how to test the plugs but I am not gonna be able to follow his lead. I am not good with my hands!
Guys your help is greatly appreciated!!!!
96' Maximap with 257k!
About 2 months ago my car overheated (temp gauge went through the roof.) 1 of the hoses to the radiator disconnecetd. I reconnected it. I put water/antifreeze in it but it would leak out and I would fill up over and over as the days went by. Then it was fine for a cpl weeks.
I was driving on the HW and the car bogged down. It went into "Safe Mode" and I couldn't go past 2k RPM's (5sp.) (This happened 2 years ago but I reset the ECU and I was fine for 2 years.) I got off the exit and pulled over. The car was smoking bad under the hood, ran weak until I shut it down, knocked and pinged real bad. I was inspecting (trying to anyway) the engine and I unscrewed the oil cap. There was white smoke coming from the opening when I removed the cap. I let it cool down for about a half hour and then I started it back up. It was pinging bad still, running very weak, and running very rough. Finally it stalled. Let it rest and restarted the car (same symptoms.) Finally I was able to get almost home. I pulled over, let it cool a little, took the radiator cap off and white smoke shot through the radiator (where you pour in coolant or water) like a volcano erupting. It was a HUGE cloud of smoke like a giant smoke screen. I let it cool down once again and finally drove home (about 3 miles.)
Car is still in safe mode 2 months later (resetting the ECU didn't work this time around.) I am driving it to work every day which is about 4-5 miles. It gets me to and from but barely. Here is a typical day:
* Start in the morning: It will start up and stall a few times and then finally idle. Before I can get the car to stay on it will idle really low and bog, choke, stutter big time. When it finally starts and stays on I can drive it to work (about 4 miles in stop and go traffic.) Again only at a max of 2k rpm's so I can go about 43 MPH max. Sometimes it stalls and sometimes it will get me there with no stalling - luckily I have a 5sp so I tend to pop the clutch whiloe I am still moving!
* If I try to drive further (which I have tried) I run the risk of stalling at a light or it will cut off while driving (usually when I slow down and throw it in neutral to coast)
* Most of the time at red lights it will have inconsistant idle rpm's (anywhere from 1700 to 500ish.)
* The longer I drive (just a few miles) the lower the car idles at a red light. Sometimes it will stall and then I have to restart. This can take a few minutes with about 10-15 cranks and I can smell gas (flooding it???) Last week I cranked it so much I killed the battery - got a jump and got her home - less than a mile away.
* The car knocks and pings badly and gets worse the longer I drive it at any given time (engine just feels weak.) It even knocks and pings as soon as I start it up.
* The other day I drove home from work (the time it stalled and I started it so much I killed the battery I had to get a jump) and when I got home I let it idle and run for a while to charge the battery back up. I went inside and it was idling fine (low) for about 15 minutes BUT I know if I tried to drive it I may have been able to go a mile or 2 and then I may have stalled again.
* White smoke DOES come from the exhaust when I try to start it but it does subside when the car finally starts and stays on (takes about 5 cranks.)
* I noticed there is oil on the top of the engine (I don't remember seeing this prior to a cpl months ago) right at the engine block (meaning if you put 2 bricks together the leak is coming from the spot where they meet and touch each other.) Also on the left side (looking at the engine with hood up) of the engine.
* AutoZone pulled the codes 2 months ago. Here they are:
* P1445 - Evap canister purge volume control valve
* P0325 - Knock sensor (had this code for a long time)
* P0136 - Oxygen sensor - bank 2
* P1105 - Map/Baro Pressure switch solenoid valve
* P0400 - EGR - no/low flow detected
* P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault
I know I shouldn't have driven it but the car is old and she has a ton of miles on her. I'm far from a mechanic but I do have a pretty good feel for my car. I don't know if it is worth trying to fix it.
Lastly a buddy at work recommended using Seafoam to clean out the injectors etc.. and the safe mode incident happened right after I put it in my gas tank. I don't know if that is just a coincidence...
I know you guys are gonna give me slack but I HAD to get to work and taking it to am mechanic or dealer was gonna be a waste in my opinion. The dealer was probably gonna start with the codes and try to replace everything that needs a new sensor. That alone would cost hundreds if not a few grand....
I hope I gave you all enough info on the problem. I have spent a few hours reading the posts before I posted my situation. From what I gather it sounds like a Blown Head Gasket. How long can I drive it (I'm driving to and fro to work 5 days a week) and is there a quick fix to make it better for the time being? I think it's time for a new car! It's a shame cause there is a lot of new stuff on the car...alternator, starter, brakes, good tires and rims, replaced calipers, front axels, new shocks/struts, etc...
I found this mechanic on Craig'st List that used to be a Nissan mechanic and he has been helpful telling me possible problems. He said blown head gaskets are uncommon in this car so he is not sold on that problem. He lives an hour away and never saw the car - just going by what I am telling him. He was thinking possibly bad coil packs. He explained how to test the plugs but I am not gonna be able to follow his lead. I am not good with my hands!
Guys your help is greatly appreciated!!!!
05-03-2012, 07:13 AM
#2
You can drive it until you can't anymore, depends on the condition of how warped the heads are, keep the trips short and keep adding water, I drove my car about 2 weeks before it just started pouring out white smoke constantly and I said fck it.
* P1445 - Evap canister purge volume control valve - Typical gets stuck with age, easy fix, most likely you had the code before you O/H the car.
* P0325 - Knock sensor (had this code for a long time) - Well now it's toast anyways, its most likely melted to the block now.
* P0136 - Oxygen sensor - bank 2 - Meh....
* P1105 - Map/Baro Pressure switch solenoid valve - Could have melted with the motor.
* P0400 - EGR - no/low flow detected - Clogged EGR tube, common at your mileage, fix can be found on the org, I suggest you clean out the one on the motor you're going to buy.
* P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault - I have it too. Won't light up a CEL so who cares? This code can be caused by a loose wire which is usually the case.
Save up $400.
But a motor.
Save up another $400
Buy random crap for the motor (Sensors, fluids, thermostat, spark plugs, etc)
Use what's left over to buy food, beer and gas for local orgers to come over and help you swap the motor.
If you live in a apartment complex I'd say get 4 guys together so this can be done overnight without the staff noticing.
* P1445 - Evap canister purge volume control valve - Typical gets stuck with age, easy fix, most likely you had the code before you O/H the car.
* P0325 - Knock sensor (had this code for a long time) - Well now it's toast anyways, its most likely melted to the block now.
* P0136 - Oxygen sensor - bank 2 - Meh....
* P1105 - Map/Baro Pressure switch solenoid valve - Could have melted with the motor.
* P0400 - EGR - no/low flow detected - Clogged EGR tube, common at your mileage, fix can be found on the org, I suggest you clean out the one on the motor you're going to buy.
* P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault - I have it too. Won't light up a CEL so who cares? This code can be caused by a loose wire which is usually the case.
Save up $400.
But a motor.
Save up another $400
Buy random crap for the motor (Sensors, fluids, thermostat, spark plugs, etc)
Use what's left over to buy food, beer and gas for local orgers to come over and help you swap the motor.
If you live in a apartment complex I'd say get 4 guys together so this can be done overnight without the staff noticing.
Last edited by aackshun; 05-03-2012 at 07:19 AM.
05-03-2012, 07:24 AM
#3
Go to autozone or oreilley's,etc and rent a compression tester. You will need a friend to help. Undo a spark plug. With the throttle body open (you holding where the throttle cables connect) have your friend crank the car 4-5 times. Look at the gauge and monitor the readings. Do this for all cylinders. If the compression is low or one reading is 25% off the others then it is the head gaskets. If you are no good with your hands or have no one on the org nearby that can help you will have to get another car. But yeah driving it like that pretty much may have made it worse even if you were able to replace the headgaskets.
This^^^^^
05-03-2012, 07:31 AM
#5
It is not worth it to replace HG's on a 95-01 Maximas.
Buy a 97-99 Motor swap it and be done with it guys.
Just to do the job PROPERLY yourself it will cost:
Around $200 in machine work (To check the block and re-deck the heads).
$260 for a engine rebuild gasket kit from courtesy.
$150 for a timing chain kit (the bay, oem is too damn expensive)
and then you still have to buy the same misc crap you do if you get another motor (Thermostat, Knock Sensor, fluids, etc)
$$$ For the tools, time and random stuff needed to re-assemble a motor.
And then the misery that you'll have because you've just spent a few weeks doing all of that work for a stock VQ30.....
Sidenote: Dissassembly of our motors is not that hard... I was impressed with my lack of knowledge on really working on motors how easily the 3.0 came apart on my engine stand.
Buy a 97-99 Motor swap it and be done with it guys.
Just to do the job PROPERLY yourself it will cost:
Around $200 in machine work (To check the block and re-deck the heads).
$260 for a engine rebuild gasket kit from courtesy.
$150 for a timing chain kit (the bay, oem is too damn expensive)
and then you still have to buy the same misc crap you do if you get another motor (Thermostat, Knock Sensor, fluids, etc)
$$$ For the tools, time and random stuff needed to re-assemble a motor.
And then the misery that you'll have because you've just spent a few weeks doing all of that work for a stock VQ30.....
Sidenote: Dissassembly of our motors is not that hard... I was impressed with my lack of knowledge on really working on motors how easily the 3.0 came apart on my engine stand.
Last edited by aackshun; 05-03-2012 at 07:53 AM.
05-03-2012, 08:29 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Aackshun & maxgtr2000 thnaks a lot!!! I live in the south jersey area - close to Philly. Anyone interested or know anyone interested in trying to pop a new used engine in? I need basic transportation for about 6 months and then I can buy a good car! I live in a Townhome complkex. I can probably do the work here as long as it's not a few days! I a printing out all the info you guys gave so I have it!
I assume it sounds like a blown head gasket huh? I wanted to get her to 300k. I bought this 96' in 98' and it had 30k on it - like new and she lasted a looong time and I didn't really do any proactive things to it. When it broke I fixed it. I didn't get a tune up to close to 200k and it didn't even need 1 - well maybe it did! LOL
Mike
Mount Laurel, New Jersey!
I assume it sounds like a blown head gasket huh? I wanted to get her to 300k. I bought this 96' in 98' and it had 30k on it - like new and she lasted a looong time and I didn't really do any proactive things to it. When it broke I fixed it. I didn't get a tune up to close to 200k and it didn't even need 1 - well maybe it did! LOL
Mike
Mount Laurel, New Jersey!
05-03-2012, 10:33 AM
#7
For future reference. HG's on our motors just don't go bad, all of them happen for a reason.
Also the HG doesn't go bad, the heads just get warped by overheating, the gaskets are made from steel so they're not going anywhere anytime soon.
You said the water hose just "disconnected"? And that's what caused the coolant to pour out and overheat the motor? I really have to ask how did you not take notice of the condition of the hose and the clamp? It's simple $5 $10 or $20 things that can save a motor.
For me I learned the hard way TWICE. I did not replace all of the coolant lines on the white car because I am just that damn lazy. On a trip to dallas one of the many rotted/rotting coolant lines developed a slow leak and by the time I made it to Houston the car was out of coolant and running in limp mode.
The red car was a bit more complicated, I attempted to launch the car at 6grand on the track, blowing the engine mount and causing the motor to rock back and hit the heater core and disconnect the hose going to it, making the coolant just spray out as I tied my PB with the red car, that was the beginning of it's overheating problems and I think which lead to it's final death on the road course in October of last year.
Lesson learned, check your car over, can save you a motor replacement, not everyone is as lucky as me to get a damn good running motor for $300 and have the tools and time to just throw $300 and one weekend away to swap a motor.
Also the HG doesn't go bad, the heads just get warped by overheating, the gaskets are made from steel so they're not going anywhere anytime soon.
You said the water hose just "disconnected"? And that's what caused the coolant to pour out and overheat the motor? I really have to ask how did you not take notice of the condition of the hose and the clamp? It's simple $5 $10 or $20 things that can save a motor.
For me I learned the hard way TWICE. I did not replace all of the coolant lines on the white car because I am just that damn lazy. On a trip to dallas one of the many rotted/rotting coolant lines developed a slow leak and by the time I made it to Houston the car was out of coolant and running in limp mode.
The red car was a bit more complicated, I attempted to launch the car at 6grand on the track, blowing the engine mount and causing the motor to rock back and hit the heater core and disconnect the hose going to it, making the coolant just spray out as I tied my PB with the red car, that was the beginning of it's overheating problems and I think which lead to it's final death on the road course in October of last year.
Lesson learned, check your car over, can save you a motor replacement, not everyone is as lucky as me to get a damn good running motor for $300 and have the tools and time to just throw $300 and one weekend away to swap a motor.
Last edited by aackshun; 05-03-2012 at 10:37 AM.
05-03-2012, 05:29 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
My temp gauge was in the middle for years and never fluctuated from that spot (once the car got warmed up.) I was tempted to do a radiator flush but my feeling WAS if it ain't broke don't fix it. I just popped the hose back on and it's been back on ever since. I guess when the car is running HOT (temp gauge pinned at the top) it is doing serious damage to the engine? I've been in limp mode for a cpl months now. Today I drove about 8-10 miles at noon and the same distance back at 7pm. I made it home, but barely. When I got home I reved the engine while in neutral. White smoke is coming out of the tail pipe and it has a weird smell.
I read somewheer on here that if you change the oil and flush the coolant it may help a bit?
I read somewheer on here that if you change the oil and flush the coolant it may help a bit?
05-04-2012, 12:37 PM
#11
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