VQuick

iTrader: (17)

The car was sitting for almost 2 months because I was in Europe. Today I noticed a squeal when I started driving, continuous but with a RPM-dependent pattern. It squeals whether or not I am on the brake. I figured the pads had just fused/corroded onto the rotor a bit and that it would wear off. Well, after 3 hours of highway driving today, the squealing is no different, and all 4 rotors are looking quite worn and grooved. The front rotors were so hot they almost burned my finger after the drive.

At first I thought my calipers were seized, but now I'm wondering if the pads have worn completely to the metal and that's why my brakes have suddenly gotten worse. I have Porterfield R4-S pads that have been on the car for 40K ish... I just had the wheels off and forget to check the pads. (Yes, clearly I have been neglecting my brakes.)

I've already ordered new rotors, and will be replacing pads and overhauling the calipers. Just wondering if anyone had quick thoughts on whether this is likely a pad problem or a caliper problem. Is this typically what happens when pads wear out? I would have thought that the squealing would only occur while braking.

Sicarius_Vis

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like your pads are worn. Sometimes, the caliper pins seize/rust, which can cause problems as well. Replace the pads and rotors, and clean the calipers.

Usually bad calipers will be indicated by uneven pad wear, car pulling to one side, sticking, fluid leaks, and in severe cases, locked rotors.

thedwyer00

iTrader: (2)

Even with the rotors looking worn after the highway driving, you could still have bad pads. I do say that what you are planning on doing will most likely solve your issue. The three issues that come to mind with your description of the situation: 1) pads, 2) rotors, 3) calipers.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the replies.

Looking at the brakes today (didn't have time to take off the wheels), the front pads both feel pretty shot, but it looks like the R front pad is what's making all the noise, as that rotor is more deeply grooved than the other three.

I was planning on doing a highway trip this week with about 12 hours total of driving, and I don't have time to change the brakes before it. Am I running a big risk of boiling brake fluid or damaging anything? The brakes felt fine on the highway yesterday (a little rough but OK power).

For the overhaul, I'm going to do all-new Brembo blank rotors, pads (thinking OEM, QuietStop, or another low-dusting pad), and the Nissan caliper refurb kit,and new fluid. Anything else I need to worry about?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The design of caliper seals holds light pressure on the pads, resulting in constant contact with the rotor. Yes metal to metal contact will often result in constant noise. I would bet you calipers are fine.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, I have heard that but didn't think the brakes would squeak this badly. Since I haven't cleaned the calipers, I will be doing that (see Motorvate how-to). Hopefully the rubber parts look OK.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Turns out one of my front caliper pins was seized (finally took it off). That pad was worn down to the metal. Luckily I planned to replace pads and rotors anyway. Any tips for how to fix the seized pin? I figure I shouldn't hammer it, maybe just PT Blaster and pliers?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

take it out and grease it

2brosgixxer

They also sell a brake kit at Advance Auto that comes with the 4 slide pins and new bolts if you need new ones. I think I paid $20 for mine.

bobflood

Depends on how hard it is to get the seized pin out; worst case you will have to replace the caliper. First thing is to try and lubricate it, then put some vise grips on it and see if you can turn it. If you can't get it to turn, it will be virtually impossible to extract it yourself. If you have access to a machine shop, they might be a able to pull it out. You will have to clean out/hone out the hole and replace the pin no matter how you get it out. Good luck.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

No dice with PB Blaster and heat gun. Turns out my local Autozone had a replacement caliper bracker for $16 so I sprung for that along with new pins/bolts. Fronts are all done, but now I realize my rear pistons are seized so I need to replace the rear calipers... Luckily AZ has those too, for $50 each.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

It took a year to look at something as important as your brakes?? You should sell your car and ride the bus.

Phromethius

sometimes things happen that prevent you from working on your car man. I broke my foot about two months ago, before that my wife had some medical issues. I've been riding with a completely clogged EVAP system with a broken Vapor Canister in the rear for almost half a year now. No money or ability to fix until just now. I'm waiting for a free weekend to make a Junkyard run for the cannister stuff and to borrow a air compressor to blow out the charcoal chunks.

Some people on here are military too, and up and leave for 15 months or so to the Sandtrap... It's not beyond the scope of reason.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Driving 6 months with a bad evap system isn't liable to kill you or someone else, faulty brakes can. That would have been criminal negligence had someone been killed in a wreck. If the car sat for a year then I retract my statement.