97 maxi, intermitent acceleration, RPMs drop fore no reason?
#41
installed both right away and the car feels better, but in a way drives the same...maybe i need to buy MAF cleaner sicne i did get the part from a dismantler. The CEL read P0100 and P0325 together so i had the KS replaced and now the OEM factory MAF!! Im frustrated. Its been determined that the fuel pump is fine, and the pressure is normal. I thought maybe the TPS but I DO NOT wanna keep random guessing. Esp without a TPS code. Do not want to take it to the dealer :/ what else can i do
#42
here is a video of how the RPMs drop. Its rarely gets above 2500. also at the end theres a shot of the breather hose (probably just needs to be replaced) as well as a random hose that I do not know what is for... and the odd sound of teh engine revving
http://youtu.be/C2bvMmzH4Mg
http://youtu.be/C2bvMmzH4Mg
#43
ok, so you mentioned that the fuel pressure is good. my question to you is, is the volume good as well? it may have enough pressure but not enough volume
so in essence the pump would be struggling to keep up with the demand for a higher load
if the volume and pressure is within spec we need to move to the next step.
check for vacuum leaks;
this is done easily with a can of intake cleaner/WD40 or any other combustible liquid in aerosol form
spray everywhere that vacuum would leak upper intake, lower intake, injectors, boots, tubes, throttlebody, you get the idea check for changes in idle
the hose you grabbed at 5:20 is the trans breather. its fine where it is dont worry about it
your car is real quiet and the windows were down it was kind of hard to tell.
did you hammer it at all?
what happenes when you brake torque it? (foot hard an the brake and hard on the gas in drive)
so in essence the pump would be struggling to keep up with the demand for a higher load
if the volume and pressure is within spec we need to move to the next step.
check for vacuum leaks;
this is done easily with a can of intake cleaner/WD40 or any other combustible liquid in aerosol form
spray everywhere that vacuum would leak upper intake, lower intake, injectors, boots, tubes, throttlebody, you get the idea check for changes in idle
the hose you grabbed at 5:20 is the trans breather. its fine where it is dont worry about it
your car is real quiet and the windows were down it was kind of hard to tell.
did you hammer it at all?
what happenes when you brake torque it? (foot hard an the brake and hard on the gas in drive)
#44
alright! I have my marching orders. I will do all of this tomorrow right after work thank you. and to add, I had the codes cleared (P0100 and P0325) and the car ran like a real champ! like it was brand new for about 30 minutes and then, the b*tch in it is back. No CEL though. OK I will report back thanks
#45
no, i just work full time. so when i get home its night time....and so i try and do my own diag hoping for a solution until i can lug over to a mech. i agree with your diag, could be the fuel pump since when i step on the gas, it goes and then GOES and then i let off the gas and the RPM drops fast. It def seems like a fuel pump issue...or the cat like others were saying...I just need to get the fuel pressure test done so i can rule some things out. I do not have any CELs...the last one i had cleared and it was for the KS and MAF but i just had them both replaced
by easing up on the pedal too much, your sent into the overdrive ratio (especially when your at the speed your car's transmission senses is enough for the current RPM), and since your not pressing down quickly (quick Vs HARD) after this happens you lock in the pressure, preventing an upshift. and it may seem sluggish because the car reacts to HOW you press the accelerator. if you tap down on it swiftly, but return your foot to a throttle position further than original, it should jump out of overdrive briefly and upshift, keeping your foot down after this will keep you locked into the higher ratio, and you'l accelarate... then simply ease up on the gas to re-engage final/overdrive to drop revs (flat land-cruising) BUT replace your throttle position to maintain the power/speed at the desired values...
i'm just hoping the problem can be solved by HOW you drive rather than what your driving with.. a free thought for a possible free solution.
Last edited by Cielo; 06-10-2012 at 01:06 AM.
#46
the rpms drop fast after you let off the gas??? not to sound daft, but.. is it an automatic?? are you sure its not just because you have the O/D button engaged and it's shifting into overdrive at unfavorable speeds due to you letting off the gas? An auto is designed to shift its gears when you do that. this is especially a common occurrence on automatics when going uphill with O/D button pressed-in.
by easing up on the pedal too much, your sent into the overdrive ratio (especially when your at the speed your car's transmission senses is enough for the current RPM), and since your not pressing down quickly (quick Vs HARD) after this happens you lock in the pressure, preventing an upshift. and it may seem sluggish because the car reacts to HOW you press the accelerator. if you tap down on it swiftly, but return your foot to a throttle position further than original, it should jump out of overdrive briefly and upshift, keeping your foot down after this will keep you locked into the higher ratio, and you'l accelarate... then simply ease up on the gas to re-engage final/overdrive to drop revs (flat land-cruising) BUT replace your throttle position to maintain the power/speed at the desired values...
i'm just hoping the problem can be solved by HOW you drive rather than what your driving with.. a free thought for a possible free solution.
by easing up on the pedal too much, your sent into the overdrive ratio (especially when your at the speed your car's transmission senses is enough for the current RPM), and since your not pressing down quickly (quick Vs HARD) after this happens you lock in the pressure, preventing an upshift. and it may seem sluggish because the car reacts to HOW you press the accelerator. if you tap down on it swiftly, but return your foot to a throttle position further than original, it should jump out of overdrive briefly and upshift, keeping your foot down after this will keep you locked into the higher ratio, and you'l accelarate... then simply ease up on the gas to re-engage final/overdrive to drop revs (flat land-cruising) BUT replace your throttle position to maintain the power/speed at the desired values...
i'm just hoping the problem can be solved by HOW you drive rather than what your driving with.. a free thought for a possible free solution.
And the fuel volume was tested to be A-OKAY....
#48
I feel like an idiot. No vacuum leaks. I've driven the M5 for the past year and a half and its a lot diff. figured since the ideology with the maxi is a 4dr sports car, i figured itd be the same. So no vac leaks and the RPMs issue was because of the o/d. So thats not a problem anymore. and it looks like that OEM MAF I installed shut off the CEL for good and its not dying anymore....this saga could truly be coming to a close....I do still have a sputter at idle sometimes, the rpm will sputter from 500 to 350, its like a bounce though, and it doesnt shut off and it goes away when I take off. the car may need a tune up? 221k miles and I dont know when the previous owner had the plugs swapped. heard they had to be double platinums but whatever. any ideas on the idle sputtering? oil levels and trans levels are good, coolant too
#50
Yes I had the IACV cleaned and you're right, with 221k miles I will replace them this week. thank you all. If anything changes, ill be back
#51
damn near redline is not normal for 40mph. lol. most maximas driven properly accomplish 40mph in sub 1500 rpm on flat land.
glad you got it sorted. although your engine is long lived.
just curious.. how did you go from an M5 to an A32?? thats a strange and very steep jump. lol. especially if it was a mid-late 2000s model.
glad you got it sorted. although your engine is long lived.
just curious.. how did you go from an M5 to an A32?? thats a strange and very steep jump. lol. especially if it was a mid-late 2000s model.
#52
damn near redline is not normal for 40mph. lol. most maximas driven properly accomplish 40mph in sub 1500 rpm on flat land.
glad you got it sorted. although your engine is long lived.
just curious.. how did you go from an M5 to an A32?? thats a strange and very steep jump. lol. especially if it was a mid-late 2000s model.
glad you got it sorted. although your engine is long lived.
just curious.. how did you go from an M5 to an A32?? thats a strange and very steep jump. lol. especially if it was a mid-late 2000s model.
the M5 blew a head gasket, and then the motor froze. sold it for 1500, but since i still had owed 1300 on it, the dealership agreed to roll that balance over onto...the maxima.
But ok good to know...I will watch for that RPM/MPH ratio. It still was sputtering on idle in drive and sputtering at take off...but for some odd reason as soon as I put gas in, the sputtering stopped...
#54
So you're saying that your maxima acts up when low on gas but feels better when the tank is at least half full? Hmmm, I'm experiencing a similar issue and I'm slowly circling around the FPR as the culprit. I've done all the basic maintenance, plugs, air filter, oil change etc. And I just yesterday changed the fuel filter even though the old one still seemed fine. The strangeness is still there with the new fuel filter too.
DW
#55
yes, and I've used lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner. It usually only happens when I'm down to the quarter mark and lower. when theres about a half a tank its a lot less frequent...I'm taking it in to get new plugs....possible fix? No CEL, and sometimes when i accelerate, it chuggs a bit as if its having a hard time getting a steady flow of fuel.
#56
So you're saying that your maxima acts up when low on gas but feels better when the tank is at least half full? Hmmm, I'm experiencing a similar issue and I'm slowly circling around the FPR as the culprit. I've done all the basic maintenance, plugs, air filter, oil change etc. And I just yesterday changed the fuel filter even though the old one still seemed fine. The strangeness is still there with the new fuel filter too.
DW
DW
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