Clutch/Transmission Confusion
09-30-2012, 02:56 PM
#1
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Location: Brooklyn Park, Minnesota
Posts: 37
Clutch/Transmission Confusion
UPDATE: In the morning when it's cooler clutch is soft and catch is right around the middle of clutch travel, as I drive for say 15+ minutes and engine warms up clutch becomes hard and catches higher like I only have to press the clutch an inch to a half to have it catch and this is usually when the car starts to slip or clutch really doesn't disengage. I turn the heat on full blast and it seems to help a bit after all this happens
-Replaced Clutch/Master & Slave Cylinder about 1000 miles ago.
-bled clutch lines (lower than upper)
-Babied the clutch break in process.
-Line has no leaks.
Problem is that clutch is STILL slipping. It doesn't slip all the time. At times when drive the car runs fine but sometimes the clutch slips and it doesn't matter if the outside temp is cold/hot. Is this my clutch again? Or is it the flywheel/pressure plate/air bubbles/something else?
Car also studders a very low speed like I need to give it more gas but this didn't happen with the old slipping clutch.
Did not have flywheel/pressure plate replaced nor have flywheel resurfaced.
Any suggestions/ideas?
Going to replace engine oil, transmission fluid, intake manifold gasket, spark plugs today or tomorrow. Anything else I should look at besides the car slipping issue.
-Replaced Clutch/Master & Slave Cylinder about 1000 miles ago.
-bled clutch lines (lower than upper)
-Babied the clutch break in process.
-Line has no leaks.
Problem is that clutch is STILL slipping. It doesn't slip all the time. At times when drive the car runs fine but sometimes the clutch slips and it doesn't matter if the outside temp is cold/hot. Is this my clutch again? Or is it the flywheel/pressure plate/air bubbles/something else?
Car also studders a very low speed like I need to give it more gas but this didn't happen with the old slipping clutch.
Did not have flywheel/pressure plate replaced nor have flywheel resurfaced.
Any suggestions/ideas?
Going to replace engine oil, transmission fluid, intake manifold gasket, spark plugs today or tomorrow. Anything else I should look at besides the car slipping issue.
Last edited by FortuneJr; 10-04-2012 at 10:24 AM.
09-30-2012, 10:59 PM
#3
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Location: Brooklyn Park, Minnesota
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Thank you for the reply.
My clutch in the mornings are very soft and as I drive through the day like 15 minutes later from driving the clutch will start to get hard and start the slip/not disengage.
I know how the adjust clutch pedal nut but do I turn counter close wise or clockwise?
My clutch in the mornings are very soft and as I drive through the day like 15 minutes later from driving the clutch will start to get hard and start the slip/not disengage.
I know how the adjust clutch pedal nut but do I turn counter close wise or clockwise?
Last edited by FortuneJr; 10-01-2012 at 06:09 AM.
10-01-2012, 06:11 AM
#5
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10-01-2012, 07:55 AM
#6
Over time the diaphragm (spring) in the pp weakens, and generally is the cause of the clutch slipping and going bad. You cannot visually detect a bad pp. Get it done right. Don't half @$$ a clutch job.
10-01-2012, 08:49 PM
#7
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I'm going to replace pressure plate, bearing, and have flywheel resurfaced if it's not too out of knick.
In the mean time I know how the adjust clutch pedal nut but do I turn counter close wise or clockwise for my current situation?
In the mean time I know how the adjust clutch pedal nut but do I turn counter close wise or clockwise for my current situation?
10-01-2012, 10:00 PM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 31
I believe it would be counter clockwise using the ASCD (cruise control) switch to let the pedal come out more (out meaning closer to your seat)
You'll have a long clutch pedal distance travel, But will ensure your pressure plate is being pressed against your clutch disc with all its force.
If this doesn't help you PP is likely shot because you didn't replace the PP and just the friction disc, the pressure plate fingers are worn out and not pressing the disc hard enough against the flywheel. Your flywheel could just have a shat load of buildup on it too causing it to slip. Resurfacing the flywheel couldnt hurt, But im leaning toward Pressure plate.
Good luck tho, either way a PP is cheap but labor will be a biatch if you dont do it yourself.
You'll have a long clutch pedal distance travel, But will ensure your pressure plate is being pressed against your clutch disc with all its force.
If this doesn't help you PP is likely shot because you didn't replace the PP and just the friction disc, the pressure plate fingers are worn out and not pressing the disc hard enough against the flywheel. Your flywheel could just have a shat load of buildup on it too causing it to slip. Resurfacing the flywheel couldnt hurt, But im leaning toward Pressure plate.
Good luck tho, either way a PP is cheap but labor will be a biatch if you dont do it yourself.
10-01-2012, 10:03 PM
#10
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However not likely but worth a try!
10-02-2012, 11:39 AM
#11
If his pedal is unreasonably low, His TOB could be constantly pushing on the PP causing the clutch to be always engaged a bit. Did this when adjusting my clutch pedal for the shortest possible travel. Mine was slippin like a beast till I put it up a bit more.
However not likely but worth a try!
However not likely but worth a try!
Also your terminology and understanding are off. If the TOB is depressed the clutch is disengaged, in other words the engine is disconected from the transmission.
Last edited by asand1; 10-02-2012 at 11:42 AM.
10-02-2012, 05:07 PM
#12
I will admit that as much as I know about transmissions, my knowledge of the exact workings of every component of the hydraulic system is not nearly at that level.
However, I will say this as a 100% certainty because it happened to me on my (formerly) turbo car. I had the adjustment nut out of wack at one point, and my clutch was slipping badly enough that I was planning on purchasing a new clutch. I instead adjusted the clutch adjustment nut and the slipping went away that second. I am still using that clutch today, and continued to use that clutch for the duration of time that I had the turbo kit, making probably on the order of 425lb-ft of torque. That was in 2005. I continue to use that clutch to this day. The adjustment of the clutch pedal did, without a shred of doubt, get rid of my clutch slipping.
However, I will say this as a 100% certainty because it happened to me on my (formerly) turbo car. I had the adjustment nut out of wack at one point, and my clutch was slipping badly enough that I was planning on purchasing a new clutch. I instead adjusted the clutch adjustment nut and the slipping went away that second. I am still using that clutch today, and continued to use that clutch for the duration of time that I had the turbo kit, making probably on the order of 425lb-ft of torque. That was in 2005. I continue to use that clutch to this day. The adjustment of the clutch pedal did, without a shred of doubt, get rid of my clutch slipping.
10-02-2012, 07:13 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brooklyn Park, Minnesota
Posts: 37
I will admit that as much as I know about transmissions, my knowledge of the exact workings of every component of the hydraulic system is not nearly at that level.
However, I will say this as a 100% certainty because it happened to me on my (formerly) turbo car. I had the adjustment nut out of wack at one point, and my clutch was slipping badly enough that I was planning on purchasing a new clutch. I instead adjusted the clutch adjustment nut and the slipping went away that second. I am still using that clutch today, and continued to use that clutch for the duration of time that I had the turbo kit, making probably on the order of 425lb-ft of torque. That was in 2005. I continue to use that clutch to this day. The adjustment of the clutch pedal did, without a shred of doubt, get rid of my clutch slipping.
However, I will say this as a 100% certainty because it happened to me on my (formerly) turbo car. I had the adjustment nut out of wack at one point, and my clutch was slipping badly enough that I was planning on purchasing a new clutch. I instead adjusted the clutch adjustment nut and the slipping went away that second. I am still using that clutch today, and continued to use that clutch for the duration of time that I had the turbo kit, making probably on the order of 425lb-ft of torque. That was in 2005. I continue to use that clutch to this day. The adjustment of the clutch pedal did, without a shred of doubt, get rid of my clutch slipping.
How did you get the stick to turn? I can get it to turn slightly after loosen the nut but it's hard to adjust the clutch so haven't been able to adjust it too much/easily.
10-04-2012, 10:35 AM
#15
[B][COLOR="Red"]UPDATE: In the morning when it's cooler clutch is soft and catch is right around the middle of clutch travel, as I drive for say 15+ minutes and engine warms up clutch becomes hard and catches higher like I only have to press the clutch an inch to a half to have it catch and this is usually when the car starts to slip or clutch really doesn't disengage.
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